Post by
GerryO »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/gerryo-u56567.html
Sun Aug 23, 2009 1:36 pm
Start wth the simple stuff.
- Clean the MAF and electrical connections leading to it- Clean the Throttle Bodies- Clean the IAA/AAC valves/assembly
General:Erratic idle is one of the most common problems with our cars. This is caused by the number of engine components that are affecting it, such as: IAA (Idle Air Adjusting unit), Air Regulator, Throttle Bodies, Injectors, CAS, fuel delivery, vacuum piping...This article will cover the three components mentioned first.
IAA-unit:This unit consists mainly of two valves: FICD and AAC. The FICD valve compensates for RPM drop when AC compressor is activated. The symptoms of the FICD failing are idle drop and vibrations when switching on the air conditioner.
The AAC (Auxiliary Air Control) valve: Is controlled by the ECU (PWM-control) to set the idle speed to a pre-programmed level. The ECU switches the AAC on and off very fast and thereby is able obtain a gradual opening of the valve. The AAC opening ratio can be observed on a Techtom MDM-100. If the valve is completely closed at idle it could mean that the idle screw is not adjusted correctly (too much air enters through it) or there is a vacuum leak (could be dirty TB's not closing all the way).
Very often is the IAA unit (pic 1.) diagnosed faulty and replaced. Since it costs ~$200 it's worth to take the time and fix it yourself. Just as long as the solenoids are electrically intact there's not much that can go wrong with this unit.First off, check the solenoid resistance (don't forget to clean the connectors too).FICD => ~22 OhmAAC => ~10 OhmYou can also check the solenoid operation by applying 12V from the battery to its connectors (you should hear a click). If the resistance is far off then you really need a new IAA-unit, if not then read on...
Remove the IAA from the plenum. It's attached to it with 4 screws. There is also a gasket between the IAA and the plenum. I reused the old one since it wasn't broken.
Disassemble the solenoids as in picture 2. Check if the spring inside them is not broken.Now clean the solenoids and the IAA-unit casing with WD-40 or Brake Cleaner or similar.Reassemble and it's as good as new.
Air Regulator:The purpose of the air regulator is to raise the idle during engine warm-up by letting additional air to enter the intake.The symptoms of the air regulator going bad is either low unstable idle during warm up or constantly high idle.The regulator consists of a bimetal-activated shutter that closes after ~5 min of engine operation and cuts off the airflow.Note: It's normal that the shutter is only partially open at room temperature.
Check the resistance between the pins in the connector. It should be ~75 Ohm. If not good then replace the whole regulator.
Another problem could be that the regulator is clogged, causing the shutter to stick. The air regulator is located on the rear of the plenum and is attached to it with 2 screws. There are 4 screws keeping the housing together. Remove them and clean the regulator internals (pic 3).
And maybe check the engine timing, for vacuum leaks and TPS output voltage too.