Hello all,



I have a problem here. My VH needed a new water pump so I went electric. During this overhaul I decided to relocate my MAF. I cleaned it (with MAF cleaner), cut it out the housing, and attached to the an aluminum tube (same inner diameter as the housing) wo screen (found that removing screen had no side effects on NICO). I did remove my cluster and assembled it back together.



Ok so she starts a little longer than usual and idles. If I give her a sharp rev she wont go above 4000, and immediately dies. I have to let her down smoothly from 4000 for her to idle. I guess a good way to picture it is if you have a bad vacuum leak. I used starter fluid and misted the engine bay and no leaks. I noticed the oil pressure gauge goes full peg when the car is in ON (funny cuz I have a autometer sender connected to a autometer gage- I didn't use the oem wiring)



NIKO-Z App says:

Idle

MAF-.40v

CAS- 45DEG

O2 LB- 0.00

O2 RB- .98



I don't understand why the timing is so out of wack. I did a sensor check and all of them came back good. I also even swapped the two 6pin connectors to the ignitors and the sensors just to see if my ECu was on drugs and it gave me a IGN Signal Failure, so I know the ecu is not being dumb. It was running fine until these shenanigans started.



I purchased a new fuel filter

The timing is marked at 15* BTDC (as per the fsm)

S2 with S1 wiring harness w/ignitors



Im not sure if removing the screen would have these effects, and wanted to get others' input on this problem. Does the gage cluster have a impact on the ecu besides the speed signal? I have a Lightning MAF and a tax return sitting around, should I just get the Nistune and use the Lightning MAF? Has anyone had this problem before?