stalling after start up

[2001lodown]

have any of you had this problem, first startup of the day is fine when the engine is cold but say if you came back and started it after running around it would start up but quickly idles down to a stall , it will do this for the next few start ups only until you give it a little gas to rev up , can;t fifure it out , please help, new owner 01 QX4 , thanks

[nnorton44]

Are you showing a check engine light? Sounds like a cylinder misfire I had.

[2001lodown]

no not showing any light but still doing this from time to time , any one else with any ideas why this is happening ?

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Has the throttle body been recently cleaned or replaced? Has the air filter been recently replaced with a more efficient one? This sounds a little like an intake air volume issue.

[2001lodown]

well as for the air filter i replaced it with a new one , the one i bought looks and feel more like it would do a better job compared to the one that was in there, the old one felt like it was a lot cheaper and poorly made , but for the cleaning the throttle body, i don't think its ever been done .

[REZN]

My car doesnt go past 4000 rpmand it only switches gears around 3000 rpmafter 3000rpm it wont run and it will just stop acceleratingso i cant floor my car at all. Merging into highways off the street is hard.not sure if anyone is having the same problem but I also have the problem of stalling after start up.The first start up of the day usually gives me the problem. Ill start it and then reverse but it seems wierd. the rpm shoots up and down and it seems like me giving the car gas is ineffective. and if i dont give it alot of gas it will shut off.i have the check engine light on though.

[Fisherdude]

Last winter, my car would always stall after start up. My mechanic said it was an extremely dirty throttle body as a result of my K&N. All you need is a Phillips head screw driver and undue that one screw on your intake chamber thing and take a rag and wipe it out. then booom, no more stalling. Also change your fuel filter, as that is what i did at the same time.

[A2V]

The problems can be the idle speed setting, stuck choke or fuel flow obstruction.

[2001lodown]

well just came back from the mechanic, he told me after dong a diagnostic that it is the idle valve air controller , well see , right now the parts on order, will be posting results when job is done

[REZN]

how much are they charging you for everything?

[2001lodown]

from what i was told the part alone cost $350 from the stealership and labor could up to two hours , so you do the math part 350 labor 2 hours ($65 an hour) 130

[Pwnin O'Brien]

That's what I was going to suggest to check, however I wouldn't have suggested replacement just yet. Was it a Nissan dealership that did the diagnosis? I would have suggested trying to reset the ECU and then do a idle air volume relearning. This will essentially reset that part which they are trying to replace. If it was a Nissan dealer, I'm sure they would have tried that first before suggesting replacement.

If you have the car still, I really suggest trying the procedures that I outline in the following thread (the procedures are in the threads second post)...

zer...ht-on

You would need to complete all of the steps in the listed order. That may fix the problem for free, if that doesn't work then you would need to replace the IACV.

[W O T]

I had a problem with my car stalling out on a warm startup, give it a little gas to keep it alive for 2 seconds on startup, and it would run and idle fine, just needed to have your foot on the gas when you turned the key.

I wasnt throwing any codes, but I cleaned the throttle body, didnt help

Then I removed and cleaned the IACV (the $350 part you bought) and changed my spark plugs, car idled fine

If you havent already boughten the part, try cleaning it.

And ps, I can remove the IACV in 5-7 minutes, why 2 hours labour? you remove the intake arm, then there it is.... 2 phillips screws, harness clip and its out....

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Then I removed and cleaned the IACV (the $350 part you bought) and changed my spark plugs, car idled fine

If you havent already boughten the part, try cleaning it.

And ps, I can remove the IACV in 5-7 minutes, why 2 hours labour? you remove the intake arm, then there it is.... 2 phillips screws, harness clip and its out....

Yeah, that's a great suggestion, you should definitely pull it off and inspect/clean the part before replacing. The only issue is the dealer probably made you pre-pay for the new IACV already, didn't they? If that's the case, then I suggest canceling your appointment, picking up the part and doing the job yourself to save some money. The part does look fairly easy to remove/replace. I would help you through the process of removing/cleaning the IACV but my year does not even have an IACV (AFAIK). You also could have gotten the part (if it really is necessary to replace it) from CourtesyParts for only $267.