i have a 2008 altima coupe w the 3.5 standerd 6 speed i am replacing the factory clutch with a stage 3 Kevlar clutch, but when i put it all back together and tried to bleed the clutch i lost all pressure and it started pissing out fluid, so i took it all back apart and the slave cylinder was in pieces ( spring and metal bearing were sepertaed) the people at ottawa clutch said it is because when i bleed it the slave wasnt up against the pressure plate so it just blew apart. but it only blots up one way so how would it not be up against the pressure plate like im really confused has anyone had the same thing happen .. can anyone help me..???

Hey and welcome to NICO Club!

I'm stoked you decided to tackle this job on your own. Get a new slave cylinder and install it, then bleed it. Use the FSM for instruction. CL is the Clutch chapter. Good stuff. Adjust your pedal when done I think.

Here's a link to all the FSM chapters:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Altima/2008/

Please let us know if you need further assistance. We'll be glad to help.

I just got through putting a stage 1 clutch in my 2008 3.5.
You have my sympathy. That was quite a job. It took me 3 weeks more or less. Of course not working on it every day, but probably 4 to 5 solid days of work. Much of the time I was waiting for parts.
I ordered the clutch kit back in mid December, then found it wouldn't fit after I had the car apart.
Had to swap pressure plates with the manufacturer via mail. They figured out the reason the part wouldn't fit was that they put the wrong one in the box!
Anyway, also found I needed to replace the driver side axle - leaky boot. I was gonna replace just the boot, but couldn't get the axle apart. Whole axle was less then $50 from rock auto. I also ended up replacing the drivers side steering boot as well. It was a bit torn and leaking too.
Anyway - if you follow the manual they would have you doing a bunch of stuff that I avoided.
I did not have to disconnect the power steering hoses. I did not have to disconnect the AC. Nor did I remove the radiator, or even have to drain the coolant.
All the hoses were long enough for me to get at the tranny to pull it out.
That is not to say it was an easy job.
I did have to drop the subframe and disconnect the steering shaft from the rack and pinion mechanism.
I had a lift on both the motor and the transmission separately and just dropped them low enough to clear the tranny from the engine.
Maybe the biggest pain in the neck was the exhaust. I managed to just disconnect the exhaust Y assembly from where it connects to the hard pipe going out the back. I left the manifold connected to the Y assembly. The Y assembly has enough flex to allow moving the subframe down enough to clear the tranny. I hate doing anything on the exhaust, it's always rusted stuck and something breaks. No different here, of 2 bolts, one broke and I had to drill it out, even though I used a wire brush to clean the threads and soaked it in penetrating oil for 2 days before I messed with it.

I should have taken pictures, but unfortunately did not.
It cost approximately $1000 for all the parts. I'm curious how much the pros would charge for this.

And BTW - I chose Stage 1, which I understand uses the stock clutch disk and just has a little beefier springs on the pressure plate.
I was concerned, and this may be your problem with stage 3, that the stock bearing/slave cylinder is not heavy duty enough to handle the load of stage 3 pressure plate springs. But I agree, I cannot imagine how you could put it in wrong,
it bolts to the front of the transmission, so what's to do wrong? If the springs are shorter on the new pressure plate, it may require a spacer? Measure the depth of the pressure plate spring to pilot bearing on both the stock and the new set up and see if it's significantly different.

Also - note what I said about getting the wrong part for mine - it came from Spec Clutch in Alabama. They were good about overnighting me the correct part though after they realized they messed up.