SS Turbo Lines

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
Ca_Silvia
Posts: 912
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 10:06 am

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Whos done them? I'm going to finally pony up and purchase a set and when searching throught the stickies i saw there are a few of you who have done this.

Is it a difficult swap to do while the engine is in? I've taken the turbo off my car alot so that doesn't worry me, what does bother me is how to connect the lines behind the motor. Because it looks like the lines just disaper behind the head.

Any insight will help!


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JNM240
Posts: 1375
Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2002 2:45 pm
Car: 90 Coupe, 90 Hatch (CA18DET)
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I just installed a set of Earls braided lines i got from FRSport.com. When i installed my GT28R i had to clock the intake side of the turbo to fit under the manifold (bottom mount), but when i went to install these lines, i had to remove the turbo again and clock the exhaust side as well, so the center cartridge was at the proper angle (coolant return was in the way of the wastegate actuator arm).

As far as the line going behind the head, it goes to the back of the upper intake manifold, not very hard to get to. Probably the hardest was the oil line to the turbo, not much room to maneuver, but still doable.

Overall, definately worth the price, since i had to modify the OE hard lines and they all started leaking as a result.

Cheers,Jason

Ca_Silvia
Posts: 912
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 10:06 am

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JNM240 wrote:I just installed a set of Earls braided lines i got from FRSport.com. When i installed my GT28R i had to clock the intake side of the turbo to fit under the manifold (bottom mount), but when i went to install these lines, i had to remove the turbo again and clock the exhaust side as well, so the center cartridge was at the proper angle (coolant return was in the way of the wastegate actuator arm).

As far as the line going behind the head, it goes to the back of the upper intake manifold, not very hard to get to. Probably the hardest was the oil line to the turbo, not much room to maneuver, but still doable.

Overall, definately worth the price, since i had to modify the OE hard lines and they all started leaking as a result.

Cheers,Jason
Dude thanks for that, i am also looking at the FRSport lines to put on my T25 then eventually on my T28.

Thanks again for the info!

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jt15833
Posts: 984
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 3:12 pm
Car: 95' 240SX
Location: Georgia

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If you keep the oil return, you only need to worry about oil feed. This connects under the exhaust manifold. The hardest part is attaching the fitting and line to the turbo, this is where taking the turbo/mani out of the car will help. One of the coolant lines also attaches right under the exhaust manifold. The other hardline runs behind the head (secured to the head with 2 12mm bolts, also note this hardline will prove difficult to remove with head on. I would say possible though, bolts are threaded into the back of the head parallel to the cams) then to a rubber coolant hose at the back of the upper intake mani like J mentioned.

Loosening and tightening these mf'ing 19mm banjo bolts with the turbo on is a mf'ing pita pos job. i f'ing hated it. it's a jigsaw puzzle seriously. This is what i did on my last job in there. Bought a hydraulic hose and fittings according to the_chosen_ones thread. Upon removal, i cut the **** out of my water hard lines with a dremel, i was done with those 19mm banjos. pulled the turbo out. installed fitting / line to turbo and block. Bought a pack of 5 M14x1.5 oil drain bolts. With crush washers i blocked off the water connection on exhaust side of engine. Completely removed the hardline from the head and the rubber line from the mani. Welded shut the coolant tube under the intake mani that feeds the back of the intake mani and thus the turbo. I also put 2 of my M14x1.5 bolts in the turbo to keep debris out. I cut a notch in one so expanding air can escape.

I am on an SR T25 and there is information and debate regarding both sides of running water lines or not. To me, I'll take the chance of listening to people who say its ok so that i never have to use those 19mm banjo bolts again. Anyways, i'd rather pay 125 for a new turbo than deal with those banjo bolts. Also, now it is cake to remove / install turbo (aside from the ehxuast stud/nut location).

The other plus is this line upgrade cost me the line ($15 hydraulic shop) and 2 fittings found online (ref. TCO thread, cost $20 for both shipped). So $35 and I'm done. I have dimensions for my line that works perfectly for stock mani / T25. My original was close to TCO's length (11 inch iirc, or 9 inch?) and it had to twist in a loop to fit. I will provide dimensions when i get home. good luck!

Ca_Silvia
Posts: 912
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 10:06 am

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**** man thats alot of info. I am planning on pulling the turbo/mani combo when i do the job as i blew the turbo anyways.

I appreciate your insight however, i will be keeping my coolant lines as it is a track car and any add cooling couldn't hurt.

And yes i share your hatred for the banjo bolts as without them a turbo job could take me 2 hours tops.

xrider252
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:10 am
Car: 98 kouki

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i
Ca_Silvia wrote:**** man thats alot of info. I am planning on pulling the turbo/mani combo when i do the job as i blew the turbo anyways.

I appreciate your insight however, i will be keeping my coolant lines as it is a track car and any add cooling couldn't hurt.

And yes i share your hatred for the banjo bolts as without them a turbo job could take me 2 hours tops.
im selling my set of lines from frsport brand new, lmk if u want themim sell my motor swap or partin out the whole thing


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