Sr20det wont go over 2000rpm after couple of min

[Locko]

ok so the swap was done a couple of months ago by a respectable place. I have all new the piping and bov Greddy , the boost gauge etc.. the car is a S14 SR20det 5 speed on a zenki s14. now here comes the problems:*) the car runs but after a couple of minutes it will start to show on the wide band all the way to 16 (red) at the end and the car from there wont go over 2000Rpm .

Things i have tried.*) replace maf**) replace plugs (just in case)

any other idea what can be ?

The car has been driven less than 10 different days and it always had that problem . now the equipment on the car-Apexi NEo-AEM fuel/air-and the rest is just stock sr

any imput would be greatly appreciatedthxn

[juvenile138]

if you have tried another MAF that you know works, what about the MAF wiring?

Double check that when the wires were extended they weren't crossed or something. You can verify that by looking at one of the screens on the NEO that shows what the MAF voltage in.

Also make sure the AFC Neo is set up properly, set to the right sensor type (hot wire) and number -1 in 1 out, I think for stock MAF,I could be wrong on the settings, thats off the top of my head, I have an SR but with Z32 MAF and AFC neo, try to play with it and if you still dont have any luck I may be able to help you more.

I would put my money on improper AFC setup, especially if you never had it running right before the AFC was in it. If you have stock everything, why dont you just disconnect the AFC and see if it runs any better/worse to isolate the problem.

[juvenile138]

also you could have a bad ECU, this is a lot more unlikely than everything else but possible

I had similar problems with my SR for a month before I figured out it was my ECU that was bad.

[Locko]

in hotwire it shows in 9 out 9 is that wrong (i didnt "TUNE" it )??

[juvenile138]

Here is the Apexi sensor type sheet

[juvenile138]

So it should be 5 in 5 out it seems

[Locko]

im going to change it right now , hopefully is that ! thnx man!

[Locko]

didnt.. im testing the ecu today against another car .. will see

[Locko]

didnt.. im testing the ecu today against another car .. will see

The ecu run perfect on another Sr I also disconected the SAFC NEO and work the same (as bad as before )

[juvenile138]

then either its your MAF wiring, throttle position sensor, or maybe a sparkplug/coil pack or injector problem.

MAF wiring and TPS sensor can be verified by looking at the signals on the AFC Neo, find the right screen somewhere in the settings, make sure that the TPS sensor is near 0 when your foot is off the gas, and at like 5 volts when full throttle. there is a calibration tool for that on it also.

also check your timing with a timing light, get a generic spark plug wire and cut it in half to put on your first spark plug then run the wire out the hole and stick the cut off end inside your coilpack, hook the timing light pickup to that wire and check the timing while rotating the crank angle sensor on the side of the head. Do this when the engine is fully warm and idling at ~850 rpm +/- 50. Should be 15 degrees off TDC which is the next to the last tick mark on the pulley counting from left to right as you look down on it standing in front of the car.

Fuel/ spark issues will have to be isolated by pulling the spark plugs and fuel rail and rotating the CAS while key is in on position. this can either be done by turning the starter over or by pulling the CAS out and rotating it by hand, just be sure to remember that the engine has to be on TDC (2nd pulley mark) before you pull the CAS out of the head, and then you have to line up the marks on it before you stick it back in, get back with me or check the FSM for how to do that.

try all those, and you should find your problem.

[juvenile138]

oh yea, and you are looking for sparks coming from the spark plugs when you touch them to something grounded and fuel coming out of each injector, you can check that by putting a paper towel or something under them while rotating the CAS, if you are sure that every cylinder is firing properly, which can be verified more probably more easily by taking each coil pack one by one off while the engine is running and verifying that the engine sound differently on every cylinder.

You can also check that you dont have any leaky injectors while the fuel rail is out, just keep pressurizing the lines by turning the key to on position but not turning the starter, the injectors should never have anything not even a drop coming out as long as that CAS is unmoved.