SR20DET w/many aftermarket parts. is it worth 3000 dollars?

[redsx13]

Hi, i just just back from a visit to my local jdm motor shop but i have a dilemma that i know the guys at NICO could help me out with.

after looking over a few motors, i found an s13 clip with various parts already on it for 800 more than i could get a stock sr20 for. let me know if you guys think it is a good deal.

the goods:

- late model s13 red top clip 80,000 km (somewhere around 45,000 miles)- gauges (oil pressure, boost, temp)- tomei air fuel gauge- s14 or s15 turbo- turbo manifold(cant find brand)- turbo elbow(cant find brand)- tomei injectors- blitz turbo timer - hks boost controller- tomei intake piping- greddy front mount ( the core is no good)- re-programed ecu- aftermarket horn- hks filter- plus the fact the previous owner could have driven the **** out of it


Modified by redsx13 at 1:31 AM 6/26/2008

[Sabot]

I say NO get you a nice stock one and work from there but thats just me too many what if's.

[Kalypso]

why is the person selling such a nice, and loaded motor? ask yourself that.

the array of tomei parts implies the manifold and turbo could be quality brands as well. find that out for sure

remove the valve cover and look inside, do a compression test. take pics - lots of them and post back here.

[luv2spedup]

I say NO get you a nice stock one and work from there but thats just me too many what if's.

i agree with him

[Kalypso]

at the same time, dont overlook what could be a great deal

good luck

[redsx13]

I know! this could save me alot of time and money, or it can be just the oppisite. what exactly should i check for? i can do a compression test (would 150psi be considered good) take off the valve cover ( what do i check for?)

let me know so i can check for you guys and post some pics

[hungryjoseph]

you want the compression to be all the same or +/- 3 or 4 psi of each other. I've seen motors be at 130 - 140psi after not being run for a while and hit 155 psi after running it. pull the valve cover and take pics. make sure it's not grimey or dry and that the oil looks ok up there. what you want on a tubular manifold are braces. unbraced and most likely that it will crack.

[redsx13]

ok, i'll make shure to check that, im going tommarow,so ill post some picr real soon.

[Kalypso]

unbraced and most likely that it will crack.

unbraced? please explain,

do you mean a monifald made of several pieces welded, rather then one long piece bent!?

[Hijacker]

Tubular manifolds need to have the flange braced to something solid (ie the block or head) or else the vibrations from the turbo will cause the collector to prematurely crack.

On crappy quality tubulars, the brace does little to stave off early destruction.

Tollerances for compression differences can be 10 psi across the board. Any more than that and there will be issues.

Also, I have yet to see a red top motor that actually has the mileage claimed to be on it. They almost always carry more than what is advertised, so take that number with a grain of salt

[Kalypso]

that makes sense

but tolerances for compression differences? do mean each of the outlets of the manifold as the meet the flange?

this sums up as - cast iron wins. codyace established this from the jump. but Im learning more everyday

[redsx13]

Tubular manifolds need to have the flange braced to something solid (ie the block or head) or else the vibrations from the turbo will cause the collector to prematurely crack.

On crappy quality tubulars, the brace does little to stave off early destruction.

Tollerances for compression differences can be 10 psi across the board. Any more than that and there will be issues.

Also, I have yet to see a red top motor that actually has the mileage claimed to be on it. They almost always carry more than what is advertised, so take that number with a grain of salt

well i went with the motor, the compression test results were 140-150 with his gage and 150-155 with mine. Camshaft wear was perfect, and he started the thing up for me and there was no bag ticking or clacking coming from the head. as far as the mileage, it is a clip, and i just read what it said on the dash. i also noticed that the headers had been repaired because the tubular design had caused them to crack just like Hungryjoseph said. im thinking of doing a post about my 240sx build-up. would that be interesting, or have you guys seen way to many build posts already? let me know. Here is a pic!

it sucks cuz somone jacked the spark plug cover and the radiator cap!
Modified by redsx13 at 9:59 PM 6/24/2008

[hungryjoseph]

keep the coilpack cover off, it holds alot of heat in there

and please make a build thread! we love those, with LOTS of pictures

it also looks like you got a late model redtop. that manifold looks like an ssac one though.

[redsx13]

the turbo manifold is a pos, good thing i have a new one . is there anything in a jdm s13 clip thats worth saving other than the motor and components to make the motor run? i heard the jdm s13 had better front brakes.

[hungryjoseph]

pull the brake lines and steering rack and everything needed for the rhd conversion that you have, so you can sell it to someone who wants to do it. I'd even go as far as pulling the subframe and the core support.

[Kalypso]

DO A BUILD THREAD!!!there are not enough build threads,each one is unique. and yuo'll get lots of helpful advice as you go.

check out positrone's my sr20det prep thread. its dope zerothread?id=302985

hungry joseph is right

can you post pics of whats left? strip it to the bone. dash - cluster - buttons. front fenders, bumper support. there is too much to mention. brake cylinder, hoses. you can sell everything, Ive done it and i didnt think it was possible - but the appetite is there people will buy it.