sr20det upgrade question

[Fenvy]

I am sure some of these questions have been covered but my search yields too much search results.

I am looking at the s13 black top engine swap and I believe that's 205hp at the fly. urrently I am also interested in 1) greddy FMIC upgrade 2) greddy or hks blow off valve, the sound will probably dictate this one. 3) garret t28 turbine upgrade. And I have some questions.

1) how much gain am I expecting to see from a FMIC on stock boost? I know, every car is different, but give me a ball park figure please

2) does brand of fmic matter? can I go with a cheaper one or shoudl I go with greddy since it's probably quality made?

3) does BOV brand make a difference at all other than the noise?

4) is t25 and t28 turbo absolutely interchangable? everything bolts on perfectly right? I don't need a new flange, new exhaust manifold or wastegate?

5) do I NEED to upgrade anything else to compensate for bigger turbo and FMIC? fuel rail? injectors?

[SpeedRacer1]

You'll get maybe 25 to 35 HP from adding the turbo and FMIC. Since your not touching the boost.

In order to get something closer to 90 HP off of those mods you would need some of the following: Aggressive cams, fuel tuning (fuel computer, chipped rom, or stanalone), boost controller, larger MAFS, larger injectors, intake, exhaust.

Intercooler brand may make a couple hp diff good or bad, but the main point is that you have one that can cool down temps at higher boost or hot days.

BOV's don't add power. Though if tuned incorrectly they may kill the turbo quicker.

The turbo will bolt up, but the water/oil lines are in slightly different spots resulting in a need for either bent, or custom lines.

If you want to add injectors keep in mind you will need something to run them, whether its a rechipped ecu/rom, or other fuel management device. MAFS upgrades can be handled by an S-AFC.

[Fenvy]

can you explain to me how does poorly tuned BOV kill the turbo? I have heard a BOV from an integra sounds like it's stuttering

I thought it was because it's a different brand but it could also be that something is wrong with that car

[compression]

An FMIC will not add any power at stock boost UNLESS you get one with a significant less pressure drop across the core (so your gains are from improved flow) or it brings the air temperature down to a level where the computer can advance timing without seeing any knock. This is kind of unlikely because at stock boost levels (about 8psi?) the air is not increasing in temperature that much when it is compressed. In fact I think up to around 5psi, you dont need an intercooler at all ( i read that in spearco's intercooling book). If you want to run more boost, then you have to make sure that the turbo can handle it, and the fuel system can handle it. As far as selecting an intercooler, get the one with the smallest pressure drop and largest heat rejection rate.The BOV does not do anything critical, so dont sweat it. But i would recommend sticking with a GReddy one. The T25 and T28(from a S15 silvia) use all the same flanges, the only difference is that the compressor inlet flange is at a different rotational orientation than the T25, not a big deal.If you want more power, then you will need more air and more fuel. You cannot add one without the other.For added fuel you will need larger injectors, a way to control the larger injectors (stock computer wont work, needs to be reprogrammed, or piggybacked), and probably a larger volume fuel pump, and probably an upgraded MAF sensor (as stated in the previous post).Basically, there is a lot that has to happen in order go above stock boost levels.

[f150intally]

can you explain to me how does poorly tuned BOV kill the turbo? I have heard a BOV from an integra sounds like it's stuttering

I thought it was because it's a different brand but it could also be that something is wrong with that car

i think he was referring to the fact that an improperly "adjusted" BOV can cause compressor surge which in turn will destroy the blades on the compressor.

And BOVs do help you in higher boost applications because it does a better job at venting air than the stock valve thus eliminating compressor surge.

[f150intally]

I am sure some of these questions have been covered but my search yields too much search results.

I am looking at the s13 black top engine swap and I believe that's 205hp at the fly. urrently I am also interested in 1) greddy FMIC upgrade 2) greddy or hks blow off valve, the sound will probably dictate this one. 3) garret t28 turbine upgrade. And I have some questions.

1) how much gain am I expecting to see from a FMIC on stock boost? I know, every car is different, but give me a ball park figure please

>>>>Already answered

2) does brand of fmic matter? can I go with a cheaper one or shoudl I go with greddy since it's probably quality made?

>>>I believe it makes a difference. My pecking order is 1) Blitz LM 2)HKS Type S 3)Greddy RSPL I personnaly own the HKS and love it. again this really only matters in higher boost than stock

3) does BOV brand make a difference at all other than the noise?

>>>>>Some are more effective than others. I run an HKS Super Sequential. Which supposedly has a longer reaction time than others but i haven't had any problems.

4) is t25 and t28 turbo absolutely interchangable? everything bolts on perfectly right? I don't need a new flange, new exhaust manifold or wastegate?

>>>already answered

5) do I NEED to upgrade anything else to compensate for bigger turbo and FMIC? fuel rail? injectors?

If you are running stock boost, no you should be fine. if you are upping the boost then you will need injectors, MAF, and some form of tuning to compensate for the bigger injectors. you may consider a clutch as well.

[SpeedRacer1]

can you explain to me how does poorly tuned BOV kill the turbo? I have heard a BOV from an integra sounds like it's stuttering

I thought it was because it's a different brand but it could also be that something is wrong with that car

The stuttering may be normal. Sometimes ball bearing turbo's make a stuttering sound out of the intake. It is compressor shock, but nothing terrible. BB's can take it better than regular journal bearing turbo's.

[LSB_11]

i have read on NICO before that sr's on stock turbo and injectors can handle as much as 14psi? is this not true, i know this is the max for the turbo, wha is the max for the injectors, while having a 3bar map sensor and EMS

[PalmerWMD]

My 2 cents:

Many of us have been running 14 psi with a controller.I have checked with Movingviolation and with NismoFReak.Both feel this is safe with with my current set-up:

These are all my engine related Mods some are added just for completeness.Full Apexi N1 Cat-Back Exhaust Single w/resonator Blitz BOV Electric Fan and thermostat relay Greddy 3" Downpipe Griffin SMC Radiator HPI Intercooler Kit (includes hotpipe) Walboro 255l Fuel Pump Greddy Turbo Timer

I added a boost controller and am running 14 psi nowI am still runinng stock ECU and stock injectors and I dont have an AFC.

Both Alan and Paul are extremely knowledgable and feel 14 lbs is safe with that set-up as long as I have FMIC and Walbro.

Fred..

PS: Greddy oilpan with baffles and 1 quart extra capacity and a new Nismo 1.5 way LSD are on their way to me .yayy:fruit

[compression]

14 psi on the stock S13 turbo? thats is really pushing it, I am sure you are out of its efficiency range...let us know how long that thing lasts.Are you running a wideband oxygen sensor? do you know what AFR's you are running? what is the duty cycle of the injectors at full boost? any ideas?I would like to run 15psi and get close to 300whp on stock injectors if I can.

[LSB_11]

i am looking to get the most out of my stock s13 turbo an injectors till i buy a new setup, tunning will be fun, just to see what we can actually get. ill be using the haltech E6X for EMS. wont be for another 2 weeks, engine shipping f***ups.