Sr20det Transmission Issue- Can't engage gears while cold

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dconley09
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:37 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx coupe
Location: Minnesota

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I've tried to search for this issue, but I didn't come up with anything. Please direct me if you know where this issue has already been addressed.

:facepalm: Okay, here is what I am noticing:
-When starting my sr20det cold, I can push in the clutch completely but I am unable to engage 1-5,R gears.
-When the car warms up for 10-15 minutes, I'm able to shift into gears(stiff at first, but they warm up and get easier).
-When the engine is off, I am able to engage all gears (obvious, but I figured I would add)
-The clutch master cylinder level has yet to decrease
-I get no transmission noise either when cold or when warmed up and driving

I'm stumped right now and I am curious if other folks may have experience with an issue like this.
Please let me know.

Thanks!


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frapjap
Posts: 13175
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:46 pm
Car: '99 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
'07 Subaru Legacy
Location: South Coast Massachusetts

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Welcome to NICO!

Have you checked the fluid in the transmission or shift turret (not sure if the KA/SR transmission needs fluid there, but some makes do). You may have a syncro problem, too.

I'll see if I can't get you some more help.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Posts: 19003
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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When you're finally able to shift after it warms up, is the engagement pretty much immediately on the floor (with the clutch), or is it higher up (like normal)?

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dconley09
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:37 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx coupe
Location: Minnesota

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When I let off the clutch, it engages very low in the pedal travel. Almost immediately. The pedal on its own does not have much travel though. There is an aftermarket clutch, I believe. I just purchased the vehicle. Could this be an issue with the slave cylinder? I just was able to get under it and it looks like a leak on or nearby the slave cyl. Odd that my reservoir level doesn't seem to be decreasing. Unless it's just a really slow leak? Again, when the car is warm, everything works just fine.

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PapaSmurf2k3
Site Admin
Posts: 19003
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Gotcha. I'd adjust the master cylinder and pedal height accordingly.
Basically you pull the in from the master fork to the pedal, pull master out (or pull the pedal WAY back) and adjust the fork out on it (hold the master rod, thread the fork out), then adjust the pedal height. If that fixes it for a little while, then the problem comes back, you've got a leak somewhere.
If your fluid is black, chances are your master is about to go too. If you definitely see a leak at the slave, go ahead and replace the master and slave at the same time, and for the love of god, bypass the demon hell spawn that is the clutch damper box.

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dconley09
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:37 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx coupe
Location: Minnesota

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Well, after some more investigation and testing I've been able to get my clutch working like it should have been all along. The pedal now sits higher off the floor and the pedal travel is much more familiar(catches more near the top/ vs catching very low initially). Needless to say, I am very pleased.

What I ended up doing was bleeding the line at the slave and I also adjusted the pedal from inside the vehicle.

Solved for now, but it seems like there might be a slow leak somewhere(didn't see it leaking at the slave cylinder upon further inspection). I'll keep a close eye on it and see what happens.

Thanks for the help and advice!

:dblthumb:


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