SR20DET TICK AFTER REBUILD (VIDEO)

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billyblack1024
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:38 pm
Car: 1989 240sx

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Hey guys,

I just rebuilt my SR and I am getting a ticking noise which seems like its coming from the top end. I replaced rod/main bearings, valve seals, piston rings, all gaskets, had the crankshaft done .10 over, cleaned all oil journals, had the head and block hot tanked, and replaced 1 collapsed lifter. After doing some reading it seems like lifters can get "dry" from the motor being opened up and sitting. I did not bleed them. Can anyone shine some light?

Last edited by Rogue One on Wed Jun 17, 2015 10:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Fix video link


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2_Liter_Turbo
Posts: 2674
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 10:41 am
Car: _________________
'96 S14 Coupe: SR20VET
'90 R32 TH1 GTR: RB26DETT
'92 S13 Fastback: SR20DET
'11 V36 Sedan: VQ25HR
'06 GMT800 2500HD: LBZ Duramax
Location: DFW, Texas
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That's definitely lifter tick. I would pop those babies out and bleed all of them. Also, check your valve shim clearance just in case you accidentally mixed them up.

billyblack1024
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:38 pm
Car: 1989 240sx

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2_Liter_Turbo wrote:That's definitely lifter tick. I would pop those babies out and bleed all of them. Also, check your valve shim clearance just in case you accidentally mixed them up.
I took them all out and bled them. Correct me if im wrong... remove lifter, push plunger down and pump to drain all old oil, submerge lifter in oil and pump until lifter is full of clean oil and all air pockets are out. Now this is where i got confused. Once all of the oil was pumped into the lifter is was stiff with no play at all. Is that how they should be? I feel like they should have a little movement.

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2_Liter_Turbo
Posts: 2674
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 10:41 am
Car: _________________
'96 S14 Coupe: SR20VET
'90 R32 TH1 GTR: RB26DETT
'92 S13 Fastback: SR20DET
'11 V36 Sedan: VQ25HR
'06 GMT800 2500HD: LBZ Duramax
Location: DFW, Texas
Contact:

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That's how they should be. You don't want them to be able to be compressed with your hands. They have to "rebound" at high RPM, sort of like an insanely stiff shock.

billyblack1024
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:38 pm
Car: 1989 240sx

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2_Liter_Turbo wrote:That's how they should be. You don't want them to be able to be compressed with your hands. They have to "rebound" at high RPM, sort of like an insanely stiff shock.
Here is a video after i bled them. Maybe i need to do it again? Also, where can i find the specs for the shims? I lined them up as I removed them, the only way we could have got them confused was in reverse order.


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2_Liter_Turbo
Posts: 2674
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 10:41 am
Car: _________________
'96 S14 Coupe: SR20VET
'90 R32 TH1 GTR: RB26DETT
'92 S13 Fastback: SR20DET
'11 V36 Sedan: VQ25HR
'06 GMT800 2500HD: LBZ Duramax
Location: DFW, Texas
Contact:

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I would check your lash before trying to re-bleed them. You can find the specs and procedure in the S14 SR20DET manual you find in my signature.

billyblack1024
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:38 pm
Car: 1989 240sx

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Am i potato or is the only option in japenese? Im not finding much on specs. Most people say you cant measure without a special tool?

billyblack1024
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:38 pm
Car: 1989 240sx

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Update - installed all new rocker arms, new BC cams. Still have a tic for the first 5 minutes at start up then it goes away. This is what it sounds like when I rev it up, almost like a rod?..... Ideas

https://youtu.be/yf-X1-JJHQ4


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