SR20DET STALL AFTER 20% PEDAL DEPRESS

[TheShadow240]

My sr20det started to bogg down after the pedle was pressed to more then 20% but when I let off the pedal the boggin down went away , but all gears this continued through.

I searched the engine for vacume leaks but did not find anything out of the acceptable clearances.

I did notice that the fuel regulater return line to the gas tank and fuel pump , the rubber hose between the fuel regulator and the metal return pipe had a nic or cut in it.

Is a nice or tinny cut in this line enough to cause the motor to bogg down when the gas pedal is press down past 20% ,

on a side not I am able at this point to rev up the engine, while parked and did not see the same problems as when driving with constant rpms

I apprciate your input.

TheShadow240

[NISTECH]

Welcome to NICO Dan.

If you rev the enigine while in neutral{snap throttle} it revs up ok with no lag? To me it sounds like Air flow meter except the fact it doesnt do it in when your parked so lets make sure its not lagging on snap throttle first.

No the nick in there shouldnt hurt it unless it is leaking.

[TheShadow240]

Thanks, When I went home yesterday and found a leak from my Power booster from the breake system.

When I placed my finger at the bottom of the connection between the master cylinder and the power booster there was a lot of sucking pressure , I am going to get a new power booster and replace this.

While reving the care while parked it seemed to bogg down, but not like I remember when the mass air flow sensor was unplugged, during the install process. that is a very defined bogging of the motor.

Could the pressure leak from the power booster be my problem ?

T hanks

[NISTECH]

The vaccum does not apply when you are throttling it as the vaccum goes away the more you open the throttle plate. So that would be a no. Now their are variables to a bad MAF sensor. I suggest you test it, back probe it with a volt meter and see what kind of readings you are getting. Be sure your ground is less then.02v

[TheShadow240]

I just noticed your graphic, beating the dead horse how funny.

I am in the process of removing the power boster, I have seperated the master cylinder from the power booster and removed the two lower nuts and the cotter pin and power booster to pedal retaining pin.

I became upset last night when I could not find my 12mm wrench because of the limited space to get to the two upper nuts, I am going to sears at lunch time to pick up a box wrench with a wratchet built in.

I should have the power booster back in place by tomorrow ( saturday) morning.

You mentioned using my ohm meter to check voltage on from the MAF sensor, how should I go about this.

On a side note I have a slight fear of head gasket, Looking under the car I noticed a quarter size spot of a green sticky substance, radiator fluid came to mind at first but I will hunt this out later this weekend.

Dan

[NISTECH]

yea uyou use the volt meter part to check for power on the 3 wires while its pluged into the meter and car running. Back probe each line. one should be around battery voltage ,one should be around 1.3 to 1.4 volts. and the important one is the ground it should be .02v or less no more then that. if it is you need to piggy back the existing wire and run a second ground to the manifold.