sr20det reliability

[epoch707]

I have been researching for weeks on whether to build my KA and turbo it or swap a SR. For the KA-T's there seems to be a lot of spun bearings and cracked ringlands from improper timing or fuel management. Just in general there are sooo many threads with blown KA motors. What is the case with the sr20det? How many of you have blown your sr motors? How? reliability details would be awsome as well.

[adrianfromthecastle]

havent blown mines up yet. i drive moderately, but i tend to get throttle happy once in a while. common problems with high revving sr's are broken rocker arms, that all i can think about.the problem i have currently is idle problems (iacv, tps, or vacuum), but that's common with the ka's as well.

[cheapscheisst]

The ka block wasn't intended for use in turbo and high hp applications. therefore, it's far less reliable than the sr, which was designed for a turbo/high hp

[adrianfromthecastle]

The ka block wasn't intended for use in turbo and high hp applications. therefore, it's far less reliable than the sr, which was designed for a turbo/high hp

better watch your mouth kid, i know a lot of ka-t owners that will tell you otherwise. just make sure if you do decide to do ka-t, dont half asss it. cutting corners and tossing in incompetent products will only result in a motor death.

just take into consideration on how many miles are in your ka, and its compression as well, if you want to boost it.

[SpeedRacer1]

The SR20DE block wasnt designed for a turbo either but it reacts quite well to boost.

As far as reliability, daily driven a good condition SR will never have problems. I have about 50,000 miles on mine. For race its just like any other engine, if you push it, and you know you dont have the parts to support it, it will eventually go boom. I have a friend that ran 18 psi on a relatively stock SR at the track. It lasted about 10 track events before it went out, he just had to replace a couple pistons though.

[karmakaze]

the main difference between the sr and the ka is that the sr has a better head design from the factory and the ka has a longer stroke. the sr has a better head design because it was made to boost. porting the ka head will fix this difference.

the increase in stroke does mean added wear on the KA though.

[Tulsa_S-13]

The KA has a pretty long stroke and slightly thinner rods (stock) then the shorter stroke SR. Since the ECU for the SR has fuel maps that are meant for boost, tuning I'm sure is less of a hassle than the KA-T.

Although I have a KA on my engine stand I'm still contemplating building an SR instead.

Way I see it as of now:

Easier tuning, stock boost requires no tuningLighter WeightAwesome powerband, ability to rev higher Reliability?

How well does the SR head flow?Have many of you put more than 20k miles on the engine so far?How has your SR held up after AutoX and drift events?

If anyone can elaborate on any of these I would appreciate it, I'm still figuring out what I want to boost.

I also forget to mention that I'm only looking for about 250rwhp...

[TchouikoS13]

For race its just like any other engine, if you push it, and you know you dont have the parts to support it, it will eventually go boom.

Elaborate? I know the basics, cams, lifters, arms, etc. But i just want to know exactly what u mean.

[epoch707]

better watch your mouth kid, i know a lot of ka-t owners that will tell you otherwise. just make sure if you do decide to do ka-t, dont half asss it. cutting corners and tossing in incompetent products will only result in a motor death.

just take into consideration on how many miles are in your ka, and its compression as well, if you want to boost it.

my ka has 155XXX miles on it and 150 psi across the board. I know its borderline, so I'll either rebuild or swap an SR depending on which is more reliable for my goal of 290-300 whp

So...anyone blow up their SR20det? anyone?

[SpeedRacer1]

Elaborate? I know the basics, cams, lifters, arms, etc. But i just want to know exactly what u mean.

For example when pushing higher boost the oem headgasket will probably blow out. Piston rings can also give out.

If you keep the engine in higher RPM's there is a higher chance that the rocker arms could float if you dont have proper parts up there.

Somethings you cannot prevent, like garbage blocking the oil passages. This can lead to starvation and many parts siezing.

One of the big things that usually takes a toll on engines is poor tuning or no tuning at all. People who slap on a huge turbo, cams, etc on a stock or improperly tuned engine management system will run into problems later.

[nothingFancy]

niether are reliable. i blew 1 sr20det with 3 rods that came out the block. another i spun bearings and now installed a 3rd 1. my next motor swap will be really reliable. 1jz or 2jz swap. ive had all kinds of imports and muscle cars. rotarys are junk. nissan motors are ok. hondas are good when built but very very hard to swap 1 over to a 240, chevy small blocks are pretty reliable. but if u want something really reliable swap in a toyota 1jz or 2jz motor. u can have a stock block with 700hp. thats my opinion

[epoch707]

niether are reliable. i blew 1 sr20det with 3 rods that came out the block. another i spun bearings and now installed a 3rd 1. my next motor swap will be really reliable. 1jz or 2jz swap. ive had all kinds of imports and muscle cars. rotarys are junk. nissan motors are ok. hondas are good when built but very very hard to swap 1 over to a 240, chevy small blocks are pretty reliable. but if u want something really reliable swap in a toyota 1jz or 2jz motor. u can have a stock block with 700hp. thats my opinion

How much Psi were you pushing those sr motors? whp before it broke?

[Poor_S13_Driver]

Whom ever said the KA head is bad is very false. I cant tell you of a single guy off hand running a KA-T that had port work. It simply does not need it and would be a waste. Like already said you have to build the KA right.. No half *** stuff. If you want power and reliability cough up the $$ to play. Reliable power comes with TUNING. I dont care what psi your running on what motor, with whatever componets if you skimp on tuning then bye bye. It seems in MY experience that the SR guys have a perhaps a little more leeway. I love the KA and SR, and I have always been a KA guy, and I will probably plan on picking up a SR when my SOHC blows, depending on money situation at the time.... and that is about as un-biased as I can get right now

[oki_bum]

For race its just like any other engine, if you push it, and you know you dont have the parts to support it, it will eventually go boom.

I Agree...

Well from what i've seen from 180s driftin @ Nago Circuit, their SRs held up pretty well. This is 10+ laps. I've pretty much only SEEN blown trannys, burned out cluthes, and smokin tires... Only blown SRs i've ever heard about were the ones driven by kids in my high school, revvin 8000+ on a stock 180.

My SR handles pretty well. Only problem i have is timing and idling. It gets GREAT gas mileage though. 100+ miles more per tank, than my KA.

[redtop91]

The SR20DET is more than reliable. I drive mine like I stole it. I haven't changed the oil in 6 months. My AutoZone intake filter has fallen off and I drive without. Anyone who knows anything and is not a fanboy will tell what engine you are using has nothing to do with reliability. It is how it is tuned. A damn RB26 could be a ticking time bomb if tuned wrong. Ford Focuses can be reliable daily driven 500 whp beasts.

Edit: You'd better stick to the KA. It'll keep the SR prices down for other people.
Modified by redtop91 at 3:49 PM 2/11/2007

[Tulsa_S-13]

Ryon if you need a filter hit me up, I have an extra laying around the garage.

[redtop91]

Sure thing Green!!!!!!!! I'd love to have it. How much do you want?

[adrianfromthecastle]

KA24E > SR20DET its already been proven

[redtop91]

ROFL. Pwnt.

[karmakaze]

Whom ever said the KA head is bad is very false. I cant tell you of a single guy off hand running a KA-T that had port work. It simply does not need it and would be a waste. Like already said you have to build the KA right.. No half *** stuff. If you want power and reliability cough up the $$ to play. Reliable power comes with TUNING. I dont care what psi your running on what motor, with whatever componets if you skimp on tuning then bye bye. It seems in MY experience that the SR guys have a perhaps a little more leeway. I love the KA and SR, and I have always been a KA guy, and I will probably plan on picking up a SR when my SOHC blows, depending on money situation at the time.... and that is about as un-biased as I can get right now

don't get me wrong, the KA is a great engine, however, the head is ported to suck air in, not for forced induction. Thats not to say that good numbers and reliability are not possible with an unported head, because obviously they are, but that is a difference in the engineering of the 2 heads.

i do agree with you 110% on the tuning though.

[epoch707]

The SR20DET is more than reliable. I drive mine like I stole it. I haven't changed the oil in 6 months. My AutoZone intake filter has fallen off and I drive without. Anyone who knows anything and is not a fanboy will tell what engine you are using has nothing to do with reliability. It is how it is tuned. A damn RB26 could be a ticking time bomb if tuned wrong. Ford Focuses can be reliable daily driven 500 whp beasts.

Edit: You'd better stick to the KA. It'll keep the SR prices down for other people.

Modified by redtop91 at 3:49 PM 2/11/2007

alright...

So its my understanding that tuning is KEY. both can be reliable with proper tuning...it seems that swapping an SR would probably cheaper than building a KA.

well thanks this thread was pretty informative

P.S. I'll do whatever I want with my money and my car. SR20det here we come
Modified by epoch707 at 5:13 PM 2/11/2007

[DrifterProdigy85]

Both engines can hold there own with good tuning. My SR is fully stock bottom and ive had it for 2 years now. Ran it on T25 @ 14psi for one year and 20psi on the 2871R for another year. Still has 150psi compression each cylinder. New from the factory is 155psi.

IGNORANCE BLOWS ENGINES. ENGINES ONLY GONNA BE AS RELIABLE AS THE TUNEING.

[redtop91]

P.S. I'll do whatever I want with my money and my car.

Like you'd listen if I told you to what do with either anyways.

[nothingFancy]

How much Psi were you pushing those sr motors? whp before it broke?

my first 1 ran 12-14 on the t25 and the sr lasted me 6 months. the second sr had 20-22 psi on a t25 for 4 months before i blew the turbo. then i ran a gt28rs with 18 psi and that blew in 2 days so i went back to a t25 and ran 16 psi then the bearings from the turbo broke and went into the motor and spun the bearings so that only lasted me 6 months on that sr. so no i have a sr with a s15 t28 and psi is 12. this time im taking it very easy. dont get me wrong i drove the piss out of my last 2. and the WHP was around 275-300 on my set ups

[redtop91]

20-22 psi on a t25

Why would you run 20 PSI on a T25? Its efficiency is limited to 14-15. I don't even think I will be able to take 20 PSI at all. I call

[GsArr01]

KA = much more potential headacheSR = very forgiving for power

i have dealt with both motors, and if built right, the KA-T can be a good motor, but the SR is much better imo if built right. I've been boosting my SR at 15 psi daily driving, and i haven't had one single problem with it. I just do not trust a motor (KA) designed for a truck. that's just me though.

and the T25 will NOT boost 20 psi. I second the BS notion.

[DrifterProdigy85]

my first 1 ran 12-14 on the t25 and the sr lasted me 6 months. the second sr had 20-22 psi on a t25 for 4 months before i blew the turbo. then i ran a gt28rs with 18 psi and that blew in 2 days so i went back to a t25 and ran 16 psi then the bearings from the turbo broke and went into the motor and spun the bearings so that only lasted me 6 months on that sr. so no i have a sr with a s15 t28 and psi is 12. this time im taking it very easy. dont get me wrong i drove the piss out of my last 2. and the WHP was around 275-300 on my set ups

That right there proves my point how ignorance destroys engines.

[cheapscheisst]

first off, the fact that you are claiming to have run 20 psi on a t25 is completely absurd for two reasons. a) as stated before, its efficiency range is limited to around 15 psi, and b) if you were actually dumb enough to boost it that high, it should have been gone within a few days. stop posting and go learn something. i mean, you've gone through 3 SR's (!?!) making an extremely tame 300whp. did you even bother to tune? the sr can make 400+whp VERY reliably. a few power freaks are even running in 500s with a stock bottom end.

[redtop91]

[hungryjoseph]

i guess ill throw my 2 cents with my experience with the SR... i blew my blew first SR going 140mph at 18psi. i had some detonation because my gasket was letting coolant into my cylander. then boom! drove it to the shop on 3 cylanders. all my summer savings down the drain... i was lucky enough for my mom who paid for my second SR. it's been three months since i've had this SR. i've put about 1300 miles on it without too many problems... the problems i did have were nonmotor related. i never pushed it, and daily driving 10 psi. i've driven it everyday to school and back, without motor issues. i hope my "review" helped in some kind of way... both motors were s14 sr's. the second SR was professionaly installed. like driftprodigy said before, ignorance destroys engines, as did my ignorance... being the stupid 16 year old i am... but daily driving this SR i haven't had problems, besides ticking which i narrowed down to be injectors. HOWEVER... my friend with an s13 blacktop... is screwed. his coilpacks are held down by papertowels, and everything on that motor had to be replaced, from manifold to gaskets. for SR reliability, i guess it depends on who does the install, and the condition of the motor, and where you get the motor from, which the condition is dependent on. not all the SR's u buy are going to be reliable, and unreliable. if you go SR, go from a reliable source that has alot of cred..

after that motor blowing incident, i check my oil, my coolant level EVERYDAY, let my engine warm up FULLY before i drive it, and i only pushed it twice... got my *** handed by a mustang and a turbo accord