SR20DET redtop pissing me off...idles like s***

[takiniteasy]

It ran fine but idled at 1500 when I first installed int.

Over the course of a week it developed more problems. Now it misfires like a f*** at anything under half throttle

I adjusted the IACV screw to get it to idle lower, and now it does. But it'll die if I'm coasting to a stop if I don't have the foot on the gas. Also it misfires at idle.
It'll idle at around 800 now but it misfires so damn much and drops down to 300-500 rpms and sounds like its going to die.

The spark plugs have black soot on them which leads me to believe it is running rich. I thought I had a boost leak but I tightened the s*** out of all the couplers (I'm running stock plumbing to a side mount)

I have a 63 ECU, its not putting out any codes. Just the 55 for all good and a 54 occasionally for a auto transmission module problem. Which isn't there because this is a manual car.

Also I have 100 psi across the board. I don't know if its just because my compression gauge is s*** or if I really have s*** compression. But its just one problem after another. Goddamnit.

[takiniteasy]

christ. does no one go on online forums anymore? Its so dead here and on zilvia.

[blkvrtswp]

Some things to try:

1) Try blocking off your BOV and testing again. Without recirculation you are losing metered air when it opens, this makes diagnosing other problems more difficult.

2) Verify you have the correct MAFS - S14 SR will not work, KA24DE will not work, only SR20DET S13 or KA24E will work without ECU modification.

3) Check / set timing

4) Go over boost leaks again - they are a b**** to find sometimes. Your boost gauge should read 15+ on the vacuum side at idle.

5) Make sure you have wastegate, BOV, FPR and boost gauge vacuum lines hooked up correctly.

Good luck!

[hondasworstnightmare]

if u know anyone with a smoke machine, take it to them and u will find boost leaks in seconds.. those things are godsends...

[takiniteasy]

Some things to try:

1) Try blocking off your BOV and testing again. Without recirculation you are losing metered air when it opens, this makes diagnosing other problems more difficult.

2) Verify you have the correct MAFS - S14 SR will not work, KA24DE will not work, only SR20DET S13 or KA24E will work without ECU modification.

3) Check / set timing

4) Go over boost leaks again - they are a b**** to find sometimes. Your boost gauge should read 15+ on the vacuum side at idle.

5) Make sure you have wastegate, BOV, FPR and boost gauge vacuum lines hooked up correctly.

Good luck!

I'm running stock plumbing so the BOV is recirculated

The maf is indeed an S13 maf. It came with the front clip I bought

Timing is all f*** up. I unplugged the TPS after the car was warm, turned the car off, then back on. Threw the light on, and set it to 15 BTDC. Plugged the TPS back in and it moved it further BTDC. It ran like s*** and had no power, so I moved the CAS back to its original setting. Which is even further BTDC. So...I don't know. I'm just going to keep it where it makes the power

I checked all the piping, the only thing left to check is the intercooler itself. Maybe it got hit going over a bumper or something..

I have my waste gate line coming right off the hot pipe. BOV line is from the nipple under the throttle. FPR is from the 2 top nipples joined in a T. So it actually has 2 vac sources going to the FPR.

I just don't know anymore. I'm really hoping just the intercooler is the problem.

[blkvrtswp]

I would focus on the timing.

- Remove and re-stab the CAS, using the instructions on FRSport.com.
- Then check/set the TPS voltage properly.
- Now set timing.
- Make sure your idle screw is not all the way in or mostly out.

Any chance MAFS wiring is not 100%? Crushed harness can hide shorts - I would check the wires for bleeding ground, power or signal wires.

Good luck. Timing / TPS setting can result in an annoying 'circle of death' where you set one and it changes the other and around and around you go....

[takiniteasy]

I would focus on the timing.

- Remove and re-stab the CAS, using the instructions on FRSport.com.
- Then check/set the TPS voltage properly.
- Now set timing.
- Make sure your idle screw is not all the way in or mostly out.

Any chance MAFS wiring is not 100%? Crushed harness can hide shorts - I would check the wires for bleeding ground, power or signal wires.

Good luck. Timing / TPS setting can result in an annoying 'circle of death' where you set one and it changes the other and around and around you go....

I think the timing is where it should be. It runs best at where it is now. If I advance or retard it it loses all power.

The MAF should be good...it responds to when I unplug the maf. The harness looks in pretty good shape and I soldered and shrink tubed all the connections.

How do I check the wires for bleeding grounds?