I was recently linked to this thread by someone that had some SR20 questions so i Thought i'd post some details here incase anyone else who finds this thread in the future has some extra information.
If you want a detailed look into the SR20 and path of least resistance for making reliable HP check out this article:
https://www.brewedmotorsports.com/sr20det-tuning-guide/
Simply put the SR20 is a solid engine, weak points are:
-oem non MLS head gasket (older non S15)
-oem heads/ports do not flow that good from the factory (port work makes a BIG difference).
-oem valvetrain design is not ideal (check out the link above for easy solutions to this by using dual guided shims)
I regularly have to tune SR engines with a huge range of mods so i've seen all sorts of parts combinations in action over the past 16 years. Up to 400whp the stock bottom end is decently reliable. You can make up to 500whp BUT that is pushing the limits of the stock bottom end and it will end up bending a stock rod at 500+.
-100% stock engine (stock cams/valvetrain/ports/head gasket) Limited to roughly 400hp, cams/head work will help the engine make good power with less boost/stress on the bottom end.
-MLS head gasket, cams/springs/retainers with stock bottom end will make 400-500hp much more efficiently. Using the MLS will also allow you to run a little more boost with a high octane fuel like E85 or other ethanol blends.
-fully built with OEM sleeves: The OEM SR20det sleeves are good to roughly 550-600hp above that you should be running Darton mid sleeves to keep the engine reliable at high power/high boost.
My personal S14 SR20det: