SR20DET Flywheel On CA18DET

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
tom@ica
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I remember reading about a couple people using SR Flywheel and starters On CA's. Then i also read its impossible but now i cant find anything about it. Since Us CA owners have limited options on flywheels(JUN, Tomei, Driftwerks) SR Flywheels would be a cheaper option. Any one know for a fact it can work?


Chris859
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Sr20det clutch+flywheel yes... If you use the s12 ca18 starter that doesn't have a nose cone on it. Which I believe should be this one http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...Set=A , I am using an sr clutch and flywheel setup on my new ca18 build but I haven't got around to test fitting with a starter yet.

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turbo-sil40
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I am using a toda lightend flywheel and act 6 puck clutch on my car, bottom line is the the sr flywheel and clutch are to big for the ca bell housing and will rib the inside I had to have the outside edge of the clutch and flywheel machined on a brake lathe to make them fit but after that, they fit like a glove I am 99.999999% sure all these sr to ca setups have to be machined bc the sr flywheel has a lip on the outside and the ca doesnt and thats what causes the rubbing, and the clutch is the same size as the flywheel and thats why it has to be machined too. I would advise taking it to a machine shop with experience bc they both have to be perfectly centered so they will stay balanced.

tom@ica
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Ok cool thanks for the info guys!

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float_6969
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What I heard was there there were 2 or 3 spots on the inside of the bellhousing where it rubs. If you simply grind it down, everything clears.

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turbo-sil40
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yeah you can do that but 5 hours down the line when your griding and fitting and griding and fitting you will wish you took 30min out at the local shop to get the flywheel and clutch modified. trust me i did it the hard way already by trying to grind down the little knobs which some are for the bolts to fasten the trans to the block and you are not going to want to go to thin on the grinding and risk cracking the housing. trust me just get it machined.

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float_6969
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Don't have to convince me. I'm running a CA specific flywheel, but if I was going the SR route, I'd get it milled too.

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Woods Crasher
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If you run a baller plate type clutch like my old ORC Ogura, or an os giken, or those purple/blue exedy/cusco clutches that come with their own flywheel, It will fit perfect and the stock ca18 starter clears.




bentvalves
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woods crasher thats interesting information.

are you 1000% positive?


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float_6969
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LOL, that looks like a picture of said flywheel/clutch combo bolted up to a CA. I would say it works.

The problem is the surface the clutch bolts to. That style of flywheel/clutch combo lacks that traditional surface.

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Woods Crasher
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ks13 wrote:woods crasher thats interesting information.

are you 1000% positive?
1001% man. 2 important notes though:

1. They use a smaller t/o bearing(at least my ORC Ogura did) I bought the smaller t/o bearing from Phase2motortrend.com, but I don't see it on their site anymore. If you buy it new you shouldn't have to worry.

2. Be careful with the flywheel bolts. My stock CA bolts were too long and bottomed out. Thus cause the flywheel to come loose, ruin my baller *** clutch. and ruin all the threads in the back of my crank. So measure and make sure you bolts aren't too long, head over to boltdepot.com and get some shorter grade 10 metric bolts and washers.

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anumeric
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I got my lightweight flywheel from a guy selling them on here. IIRC he had Ogawa Engineering make him 10 CA flywheels. I brought one from him and using it with a ka centerforce dual friction clutch. I'm definately happy with it. I think my flywheel was 12-13 lbs. I'll see if i can dig up the old thread or his email if you want it, hopefully he may still have one.

Wei

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mbmbmb23
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Woods Crasher wrote:
2. Be careful with the flywheel bolts. My stock CA bolts were too long and bottomed out. Thus cause the flywheel to come loose, ruin my baller *** clutch. and ruin all the threads in the back of my crank. So measure and make sure you bolts aren't too long, head over to boltdepot.com and get some shorter grade 10 metric bolts and washers.
You could probably stack a lock washer and a regular washer, and use loctite. As long as its torqued to spec it should suffice.

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BIGSAM06
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yeah just use a sr20 flywheel and a hatachi gear reduction starter off of an s12 w/ a ca18et.. you just have to grind the hump inside the bell housing to clear the SR flywheel. this is the setup i have for my CA works fine.

bentvalves
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but thats just it maaan, this thread is saying you dont need that gear reduction starter from an s12.

two ways of going about doing It apparently.

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jt15833
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i think Woods said you don't need one if you use one of those manufacturer's flywheels.


bentvalves
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yes correct, thanks for reiterating jt.

Greg

Vetal
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Read two days ago that ACT SR20 clutch DOESN NOT fit CA18 gearbox...

Vetal
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turbo-sil40 wrote:I am using a toda lightend flywheel and act 6 puck clutch on my car, bottom line is the the sr flywheel and clutch are to big for the ca bell housing and will rib the inside I had to have the outside edge of the clutch and flywheel machined on a brake lathe to make them fit but after that, they fit like a glove I am 99.999999% sure all these sr to ca setups have to be machined bc the sr flywheel has a lip on the outside and the ca doesnt and thats what causes the rubbing, and the clutch is the same size as the flywheel and thats why it has to be machined too. I would advise taking it to a machine shop with experience bc they both have to be perfectly centered so they will stay balanced.
Do you have any pics? How much did you grind flywheel/cover? Didn't it decrease strength of cover plate?

DALAZ_68
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Woods Crasher wrote:
1001% man. 2 important notes though:

1. They use a smaller t/o bearing(at least my ORC Ogura did) I bought the smaller t/o bearing from Phase2motortrend.com, but I don't see it on their site anymore. If you buy it new you shouldn't have to worry.

2. Be careful with the flywheel bolts. My stock CA bolts were too long and bottomed out. Thus cause the flywheel to come loose, ruin my baller *** clutch. and ruin all the threads in the back of my crank. So measure and make sure you bolts aren't too long, head over to boltdepot.com and get some shorter grade 10 metric bolts and washers.
so i decided to ignore work all day today and found this thread...

so said baller type of clutch/flywheel combo + regural CA starter = no clearance issues to my ca bellhousing !!!

if so, im so going baller!!!

Ca_Silvia
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810 USD for ORC CA clutch compared to the same price for the SR clutch, however, the SR clutch includes a flywheel.

http://www.nengun.com/orc/409-...400ps

If this is true about this brand and the SR clutch/flywheel combo, this is sweet. These clutches are bad a**.


DALAZ_68
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Ca_Silvia wrote:810 USD for ORC CA clutch compared to the same price for the SR clutch, however, the SR clutch includes a flywheel.

http://www.nengun.com/orc/409-...400ps

If this is true about this brand and the SR clutch/flywheel combo, this is sweet. These clutches are bad a**.


thats what im saying...which one are you looking at btw? theres like 10 of them there

Ca_Silvia
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I am only assuming that the SR clutch users are going with an s13 Red Top clutch. Just a guess really.

Perhaps Woods could chime in on this one?

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Woods Crasher
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Ca_Silvia wrote:I am only assuming that the SR clutch users are going with an s13 Red Top clutch. Just a guess really.

Perhaps Woods could chime in on this one?
Hello. I was looking at some of my old posts and found this thread!

To clarify on the CA18 clutch solutions:

To answer you question, any RWD SR20 ORC type clutch from 91 - 98 will work. That's S13 and S14. They are the same.

As far as the plate clutch setups go. Using a SR20 clutch is only economical if you can find a used one like I did. It's much more likely you'll find a used ORC, OS Giken, or another plate clutch with it's own custom flywheel for a SR20 than a CA18. If you're going new, you can get one of these clutches that are made for the CA18.

People may want to disregard my previous statement about the flywheel bolts. The threads in the crankshaft of the CA18 I had were previously damaged (unknown to me) from the flywheel bolts being cross threaded(never use an impact gun to put them on). The master tech(worked on Nissans for over 30 years) in my shop just assumed that since I was using a clutch for another car that the bolts must have been too long or not tight.

bimeur
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from my known,you have to use sr20det bolts,they're shorter than ca18,and fits bolt-on ;)

bimeur
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bimeur wrote:from my known,you have to use sr20det bolts,they're shorter than ca18,and fits bolt-on ;)

Correction:

I put an Exedy Twin Clutch Plate, and you have to use AT bolts for the FW, SR20 and CA18 are too long :S

Vetal
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What are these "baller type" clutch you mentioned, that work with stock S13 starters?

nickhebert
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I have a friend that races late models and he said that to cut weight on the flywheel they drill holes in it. I dont know if they get it machined after the holes are drilled but does this sould like it would work? I

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float_6969
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Vetal wrote:What are these "baller type" clutch you mentioned, that work with stock S13 starters?
Did you actually read the whole thread before posting? It's barely a whole page. He says which one works.


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