SR20DET CAS and Coilpacks on N/A SR. Possible?

[E7-S14]

i know it can be done but my question is how hard..

has anyone known of someone doing this? or better yet.. has one of you guys done it?

And also. i will be boosting my N/A SR in a little bit. what would i need to run a SR20DET ECU..could i run one?

i was thinking of going with Nistune.

[Seishuku]

Yeah, you can... You would need the coil packs, CAS, ignitor, ECU, and both engine and coil pack harnesses.

If you had an S13 SR20DE, then you would just need the coils, ignitor, ECU, and harnesses, as the connector on the S13 distributor is compatible (external coil).You could do it with the S14 dist., but you would have to re-pin the S14's distributor connector.

[E7-S14]

Hey Seishuku.do you have an aim SN?you always seem to be able to answer ALL my questions. and ill always have more.i have some questions about my turbo setup that i know you'd be able to help me with.

i guess the first would be what tuning device are you using on your n/a turbo SR?i have an safc 2

[Seishuku]

Yeah, I do, but I'm rarely on. lol

I'm running a ROM tune, mostly because my ECU was already modded for it. So that made my life easy.The mods are kinda complicated for these ECUs, here's a thread on the details:http://www.sr20forum.com/calum....html

I'm not sure I would try with an SAFC, an FMU with a MSD BTM might be better, but a ROM tune or standalone would be best.

I'm going to be experimenting with MegaSquirt soon, so if I come up with anything on that, I'll be sharing.

[E7-S14]

is it you don't think an afc will work? or you just wouldn't recommend it.i bought it as a temporary.. as most tuning hardware is going to cost me 500+

I was going to run the afc as a temp until i could get the money to run a stand alone.considering Nistune doesn't have the ecu mod ready for the n/a SRs yet.. what else could i do.except ROM tune.

what exactly is a rom tune anyway?that like sending it off to entalpy or jimwolf?

[shift_SRDETuser]

just buy an s13 or s14 sr20det problem solved

[Seishuku]

Both actually, though I'm not 100% sure how it works for turbocharging an NA engine, considering what it does and how it works. I could see using it to rework signals for a larger MAF and bigger injectors, but I would think you would still need something like an 8:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator (FMU). But I don't have much experience with SAFCs.A quote I like from FreshAlloy: "The only thing the AFC can fine tune is how much more detonation you want."

Honestly I think any kind of piggyback system (anything that tricks the ECU) is junk, and should be avoided at all cost.

An SAFC would however be useful for just doing fine adjustments on the fly, like if it was running really rich and just needed to lean it out a bit.

Yeah, a ROM tune is exactly what JWT and Enthalpy does, and actually I kinda forgot about JWT, they might still do some work with the NA SR ECUs. You might try contacting them about a tune, though both are kinda expensive ($500).It's basically changing the fuel and timing maps in the original ECU programming to suit your needs. It does have a bit of a learning curve and needs a wideband O2 sensor, also should REALLY be done on a loading capable dyno, but can be done on the street.

The nice thing about the NA SR is that you already have a good base to start with, the SR20DET! My fuel map and timing map is a hybrid of the original NA mappings and modified SR20DET mappings.

[Seishuku]

just buy an s13 or s14 sr20det problem solved

Because you can put together the turbo parts for an NA SR for cheaper than a complete DET swap, and have better responding and more powerful engine.

I turbo'd mine for about $600 out the door, can't even pick up a long block for that!

[shift_SRDETuser]

Because you can put together the turbo parts for an NA SR for cheaper than a complete DET swap, and have better responding and more powerful engine.

I turbo'd mine for about $600 out the door, can't even pick up a long block for that!

compression is different, oil rails and squirters are different, the S14 has VTC which makes like 100 whp difference in mid range power than a similar s13 sr. SR20de blocks are around 500 bucks so I guess you are right they are cheaper but the stock s14 SR20det will hold 400 whp reliably. How much does it cost you to get to that on an SR20DE?

you turbo'd yours? how much power you making at stock boost 180 or 190? anything over 200 whp then please by all means post a sheet?

[Seishuku]

compression is different, oil rails and squirters are different, the S14 has VTC which makes like 100 whp difference in mid range power than a similar s13 sr. SR20de blocks are around 500 bucks so I guess you are right they are cheaper but the stock s14 SR20det will hold 400 whp reliably. How much does it cost you to get to that on an SR20DE?

you turbo'd yours? how much power you making at stock boost 180 or 190? anything over 200 whp then please by all means post a sheet?

S14 DE has VTC as well, and 10:1 compression makes for nice power when you aren't on boost, just you have to know how to tune for it.

A DE block will hold just as much power as a DET block, but neither will hold 400WHP reliably on stock pistons... Though that depends on if you abuse it like I do, but my DE+T has been dead reliable for the last 3 years on 11PSI.

I could get 400WHP, but I would have to get new pistons, 10:1 NA pistons would crack a ringland before you hit 300 I bet. But forged 10:1 turbo pistons would be no problem at all.

I have well over 200WHP on my current set up right now, but I haven't had it on a dyno yet. So no graph.

The only difference (other than the electronics) is the pistons and oil jets, everything else is identical. They're not like the USDM SR20DE.

Edit:Oh, and at stock boost, mine makes as much power as a stock S13 DET, only it has a MUCH broader torque curve due to the compression and VTC (way more lowend torque). Though mine now, after doing some fine tuning, is running more timing than an S13, so it's probably making a little more power.

Keep in mind, that I'm running a T25g, not a T28.

[shift_SRDETuser]

S14 DE has VTC as well, and 10:1 compression makes for nice power when you aren't on boost, just you have to know how to tune for it.

A DE block will hold just as much power as a DET block, but neither will hold 400WHP reliably on stock pistons... Though that depends on if you abuse it like I do, but my DE+T has been dead reliable for the last 3 years on 11PSI.

I could get 400WHP, but I would have to get new pistons, 10:1 NA pistons would crack a ringland before you hit 300 I bet. But forged 10:1 turbo pistons would be no problem at all.

I have well over 200WHP on my current set up right now, but I haven't had it on a dyno yet. So no graph.

The only difference (other than the electronics) is the pistons and oil jets, everything else is identical. They're not like the USDM SR20DE.

Edit:Oh, and at stock boost, mine makes as much power as a stock S13 DET, only it has a MUCH broader torque curve due to the compression and VTC (way more lowend torque). Though mine now, after doing some fine tuning, is running more timing than an S13, so it's probably making a little more power.

Keep in mind, that I'm running a T25g, not a T28.

Yeah well-- I just do not think you will get to your power goals by this method when you could buy an s13 or s14 sr20det run it to 17 lbs and hit 300-320 whp and not miss a beat. I just do not see the design in this. One engine was engineered to be turbo'd one was not. It will cost more money to make the same power on a DE than it does on a DET. Not putting it down but why spend 3 grand on your DE to make the same power a 4 grand RS20DET can make? When you start wanting more it will be harder for the DE block to take it than the DET block.

[Seishuku]

Yeah well-- I just do not think you will get to your power goals by this method when you could buy an s13 or s14 sr20det run it to 17 lbs and hit 300-320 whp and not miss a beat. I just do not see the design in this. One engine was engineered to be turbo'd one was not. It will cost more money to make the same power on a DE than it does on a DET. Not putting it down but why spend 3 grand on your DE to make the same power a 4 grand RS20DET can make? When you start wanting more it will be harder for the DE block to take it than the DET block.

I paid $450 shipped for my DE. It was either that or a KA at the time (notice: I'm not driving a 240sx), and this popped up first.

Plus I didn't really want to jump into turbo land and complete DETs went for $2k+ at the time.

And if I want more power down the road, it's going to get new pistons and a GT28RS or GT30R, which I would have done with a DET anyway.

In the mean time, I can enjoy high to mid 12 second 1/4 mile passes... If I can get it to hook.

Besides, E7 and myself already have the DE anyway, why spend another $1500 for a DET when we can just work with what we have?I'm not trying to change peoples minds go out and buy a DE, that would just be silly.