SR20DET cams

[RPS13.5]

I am looking for the best IN & OUT cams for street daily driven for my S14/S15 SR20DET. I would like to keep the VVT and stock ECU since no one knows how to tune SR here in northern california. I've search around but I always seen that everything is marketing and no actual results.

I prefer 264, but who have the best 264 this days? stage 1 or 2 will be fine and I am getting a BC valve springs and retainers if any cams will work fine.

Also what are the difference between stage 1 and stage 2?

Modified by RPS13.5 at 7:02 PM 9/12/2008
Modified by RPS13.5 at 7:16 PM 9/12/2008

[boro drift]

Stay away from re-grinds.

[Neil]

Different "stages" are only marketing gimmicks. Timing and lift aren't going to be the same between two different manufacturers.

I just did a little searching and wound up on this page: http://www.nissansilvia.com/fo...28815

I hadn't considered adjustable cam sprockets to be used to compensate for variations in cam timing just from using a non-OEM head gasket. goes to show you how much an engine is like a precision watch. In other words you really have to know what you're doing to even make a good decision on what product to buy when replacing critical engine components, because really there's not even a standard as to how manufacturers are supposed to advertise their grinds. To figure out who makes "the best" 264, you have to decipher any technical specs available and understand what impact they'll have on the motor.

Boro, what's wrong with a re-grind?

edit: the headgasket didn't determine his cam timing, i read too fast.. according to that thread the BC intake cams are apparently all made about 11° retarded, probably not on purpose, necessitating the adjustable sprockets to get them in spec. the comment about a head gasket you'll see is a member mentioning another customer used a thicker apexi head gasket which advanced cam timing to ~8° btdc, only 3° less retarded.
Modified by Neil at 6:47 PM 9/13/2008

[boro drift]

Just a bad experience with one in another engine. Also, depending on who the grinder is, the base circle diameter of the lobe will get ground too much and the result is noise in the valve train. With a new cam, the diameter of the base circle is always in spec.

[Neil]

Yeah I can see that happening.. sorry you had a bad experience. My dad actually recently rebuilt an i6 out of an Austin Healey 3000 for someone and the guy bought a reground cam for it... timing ended up being about 6° off, and there's not exactly a lot of aftermarket components to tune cam timing on that motor.. I sort of attributed it to just being a mistake on behalf of the cam shop from not being familiar enough with the motor or something, but the more I'm finding out, the more I realize something dumb is probably going to happen no matter which aftermarket route you take, so you just have to be prepared for it. (The Healey i6 ended up running great, though.)

[jr_ss]

If you plan on staying with a smaller turbo than the 2871R, then 256's are all you are going to need. If you don't plan on changing any of that then stay with the stocks. They are good for up to and over 300rwhp. A lot of the cams out there are compatible with the NVCS, just do your research. You'll need a tune and probably larger injectors. Enthalpy here in Tampa, Fl. ROM tunes.

[supreamS14]

How much power and rpm will the stock cams flow?

[jr_ss]

How much power and rpm will the stock cams flow?

Stock cams should be good up to and slightly over the 7k rpm limit, with the right turbo. I know at 11psi my car stops pulling at 6.5k, so that's when I shift. When I was running 14-15psi I was taking it to 7k in the first two gears, then I would go back to the 6.5k shift any gear after that. I think with a larger turbo or more boost (i.e. 28rs or larger and 13psi^) the stock cams will work fine. I think there are quite a few people out there with stock cams making 300+ rwhp. When you throw cams into the mix it shifts your powerband to the right... With the stock cams and right turbo, you should retain factory response with decent power levels...

[Neil]

300whp with the stock cams is definitely doable but power begins to taper off a good bit before redline. To me it feels like you'd be overworking the engine more than it's worth at the upper range to make it. My rev limit is still 7200rpm and with the stock cams I don't ever run it out that high, it just gets too buzzy and there's not hardly any more power.

The only dyno run I did was with a **** tune at i think 12psi (boost controller disconnected, not sure what the GT2871 actuator is, and the dude couldn't interpret my metric boost gauge [which reads wrong anyway]) and I made 255whp, but that's only 20hp more than I was making at 5.5krpm. I now boost to ~15psi with a proper tune and it pulls like gangbusters. if it's at all wet out I can break traction in 3rd by mashing the gas & I have LSD. I can easily picture a mild cam grind really opening up the top end.

[RPS13.5]

The reasons why I am changing cams shaft because it peaks up to 6300rpm and horse power start going down to 7100rpm which my rev limit.dyno tuned 225whp 199 lbs.torqueStock S15 SR20DETboost 7 psi3" full exhaustARC SMICBlitz Air IntakeSAFC II

my boost controler wasnt working well that time, and I am assume that the horse power should be more if it was working for 14.5 psi of boost?

next dyno with: 60mm throttle bodyZ32 MAFfuel pressure regulator or 555cc14.5 psi boost

[jr_ss]

The reasons why I am changing cams shaft because it peaks up to 6300rpm and horse power start going down to 7100rpm which my rev limit.dyno tuned 225whp 199 lbs.torqueStock S15 SR20DETboost 7 psi3" full exhaustARC SMICBlitz Air IntakeSAFC II

my boost controler wasnt working well that time, and I am assume that the horse power should be more if it was working for 14.5 psi of boost?

next dyno with: 60mm throttle bodyZ32 MAFfuel pressure regulator or 555cc14.5 psi boost

Like I said, stick with stock until you've up'd the boost, it's a completely different animal over 12psi. And if you do change cams, don't go any bigger than 256's if you plan on keeping that setup...

[RPS13.5]

Good to know, and what is the stock cams at; is it close to 256?

Next year upgrade:HKS GT-SS or RSEX manifoldpower FC70mm throttle body

maybe that time I need the 264?

[kentuckyslider]

I went with the tomie 260 procam with 12mm of lift. Should idle nice and have enough lift to justify the springs. I will post a dyno run sometime next month to let you know how much I gained.

[hugogos22]

I have a gt2871r and jwt s4 and a greddy intake and it rips.

[kentuckyslider]

hugogos, what are you dynoing at and what kind of times in the 1/4? How do you like the S4's compared to stock cams?

[jr_ss]

I believe the stock cams are 248's if I'm not mistaken... Anyone else want to comfirm this?

[DrifterProdigy85]

Tomei is my choice too. Tomei 260 Procams. I have Tomei 270 Procams on mine and i love the powerband. Might even step up to a Tomei 280 soon.

[hugogos22]

Im getting my car dynoed soon. Dude get the s4 they rip so hard would you like me to get a video for you.

[kentuckyslider]

Prodigy, do you think the Tomie 260's are a good choice for my turbo an setup. Stock head and .64 ar 48 trim 2871.

[DrifterProdigy85]

260's sound perfect for it.

[ryanmasters240]

HKS 264s are the best streetable cams for any 4cyl IMO

[TRBOMOFO]

i am running the BC stage 2 264 and they are perfectly streetable and have helped my power band all they way through

i regret to say i didnt get a dyno before i put them in so i have to numbers to show

but my after numbers on a T25 with stock maf and the cams = 240 RWHP and 235 ft lb

oh 14 psi but at 6 k it drops to 9 psi sh^tty turbo loss

[Ser200sx567]

I'm building a SR20DET S13 red top. I'm considering using an HKS 256 intake and HKS 264 exhaust. Is staggaring cams like that any benifit? I want to run 9:1 compression and max psi of approx 20psi on a turbonetics 60-1 HI FI.

[exit7aracing]

i have a 92 sr motor with z32 fuel filter and maf walbro 255, 13lb fly wheel, exedy organic, t25, hks adjustable wastegate, greddy fmic, 3in exhaust

i was looking at bc 264 cams springs retainers and an ecu tune redline raised to 7900.

does this sound ok?

my cam choice that is

[Sr20S13Det]

from information ive been given BC are 2nd best they are regrinds and you will suffer with idle. HKS are top notch #1 IMO my future plans will be twin scroll Full race manifold, 3076R, HKS staggered 264 intake 272 exhaust

[240_SeX]

I believe the stock cams are 248's if I'm not mistaken... Anyone else want to comfirm this?

Stock is 248 Intake with a 10mm lift and a 246 with a 9.2mm lift on the exhaust. Thats a S-13 redtop

[V8slayr]

the cam choice sounds good. But there will be no need whatsoever in revving to 8k on the T25, doesn't matter what cams you have, that turbo runs out of steam by 7k.

[supreamS14]

the cam choice sounds good. But there will be no need whatsoever in revving to 8k on the T25, doesn't matter what cams you have, that turbo runs out of steam by 7k.

Any body know when the S15 turbo (GT28R or GT2860R) runs out of steam?I made 269.9 whp / 240ft lbs @ 11psi reving to 6500rpm. I feel it still making power @7000 rpm but I hardly ever take it past 6500rpm because I know the cams fart out at about that.
Modified by supreamS14 at 7:50 PM 7/14/2009

[domiballa]

the gt28r starts running out of steam right after 7000.. so 7000 is a perfect redline.. but honestly you should get a bigger turbo if your going to get cams.. that turbo doesnt flow enough up top for it to need bigger cams.. stock cams are perfect