sr20det build up

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Nils
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Wanted to see if anyone has any feedback on the parts I am planning to get for my sr20det swap. If anyone has had any bad experiences with any of these parts please let me know.

Here we go:

SR20DET (low mileage 98 s13 Black top)Upgraded SARD CPUBlitz Nur-Spec ExhaustBlitz Straight DPHKS Intake AdapterHKS IntakeGreddy Profec BHKS Type S fmicWalbro 255L pumpSparco EVO2 Seat (Seat Brackets/sliders)Greddy Boost 60mm peak holdGreddy EGT 60mm peak holdBlitz Oil coolerC's Short shifter

Autopower SCCA legal Rollcage

PDM/Whiteline Front Sway BarPDM/Whiteline Rear Sway Bar

The car already has: Tein HA coilovers with adjustable pillowballs Volk GTN 8"x17 (front) 10"x17" (rear) Kumho Victoracer v700's (50 tread wear rating..ouch!)5 lug hubs with H&R extended wheels studs300zx front brakes w/ PDM stainless steel linesCarbotech XP pads (very aggressive)

*edited* I forgot to add that I also have a Cusco front strut tower bar and that I will probably get the Nissan LSD (maybe the Cusco if money allows) for the 240.

Any suggestions or comments?

take care,nils


Daunttless
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I'm gonna move you so you get more coverage, I am on the phone with my girlfriend so I can't focus enough to write anything useful. : ) I'll put my 2 cents in later, go check out the other post, as it has info in it too. : )

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Nils
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Daunttless wrote:I'm gonna move you so you get more coverage, I am on the phone with my girlfriend so I can't focus enough to write anything useful. : ) I'll put my 2 cents in later, go check out the other post, as it has info in it too. : )
gotcha, thx....

n

Daunttless
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Well, I don't think I have anything else to add since you seemed content with the other thread. Do you have any other questions?

Also, I just figured out who you are, I just put two and two together. : ) Nils Leufven. : ) I read your cars description on to4r.com. Very nice, are you actually selling it? : )

Daunttless
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Beautiful by the way, the quicksilver is by far my favorite color, especially with black interior. : )

ninjak84
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wow.... i'll tell you what i think of your ride when i change my pants

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Nils
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Daunttless - thx for the good comments =)Yes, I am selling it. Just bought a house and need money for bills etc....

ninjak84 - lol.... go and change your pants...

take care,nils

I H8 UR DSM
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The only thing id say is stay away from that HKS intake. (i know its the minor thing on your list, lol)...

http://www.gtrowner.com/induction.html

theres a air filter comparison that was done a while ago.

and is the HKS Type S the top model intercooler offered by HKS?

the other thing id definitly consider is upgrading the MAFS to a 300z Z32 mafs at first also. The stock MAFS maxes out pretty easily after 14psi, and youll get some better results w/ that.

did u have to roll the fenders to get those 10's on the back?

jesse

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Nils
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I H8 UR DSM wrote:The only thing id say is stay away from that HKS intake. (i know its the minor thing on your list, lol)...

http://www.gtrowner.com/induction.html

theres a air filter comparison that was done a while ago.

and is the HKS Type S the top model intercooler offered by HKS?

the other thing id definitly consider is upgrading the MAFS to a 300z Z32 mafs at first also. The stock MAFS maxes out pretty easily after 14psi, and youll get some better results w/ that.

did u have to roll the fenders to get those 10's on the back?

jesse


thx for the tips Jesse,More than likely I will just end up with a good ol' K&N intake filter.

THe type S is not the largest core available for the s14 but I am afraid to get too big of a fmic, reason being is that I dont want to rob too much air from the radiator. The type S has a thinner core and should be adequate for my power needs.

I'll definitly look into the z32 MAF, how much do they usually cost from the wreck yards?

I actually did roll the fenders as a precautionary measure but I didnt have to. I put 5mm H&R spacer on the rear beacuse the inside of the wheel was rubbing on my coilovers and the lower A arm during hard cornering.

take care,nils

I H8 UR DSM
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the only reason i said that about the intercooler is because obviosly you have/had a high hp car, and that intercooler might be a struggle to get 600hp (lol)if you looking for that :D

z32 mafs ive seen anywere from 100-300 bucks : O

so i guess just shop around, and see what you can find.

what are u running for radiator?

u might want to get a oil pressure gauge.

and the greddy oil pan is a real nice piece.

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Nils
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I H8 UR DSM wrote:the only reason i said that about the intercooler is because obviosly you have/had a high hp car, and that intercooler might be a struggle to get 600hp (lol)if you looking for that :D

z32 mafs ive seen anywere from 100-300 bucks : O

so i guess just shop around, and see what you can find.

what are u running for radiator?

u might want to get a oil pressure gauge.

and the greddy oil pan is a real nice piece.


I am considering getting a new PWR aluminum radiator. This guy used to work at Fluidyne and he left to start his own company, heard good things about it.

What gains would I get from the Greddy oil pan?

tia,nils

I H8 UR DSM
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Nils wrote:What gains would I get from the Greddy oil pan?

tia,nils


not really any gains...it looked like you race your cars though, by the 'slalom' results you had. The greddy pan holds about an extra court of oil...comes w/ a tap for a oil temp gauge...comes w/ about 3-4" baffles on each side, which are hinged, so when you turn, the hinge on the side your turning to will be closed, and the other will open, and dump the oil from that side into the middle of the pan (if your following, lol)...so basically it just prevents any starving of the oil pickup when making hard turns....it also looks perty : ), and it stronger than the stock pan....some people stock pans come dented, i guess u can just hammer them out. I kept my stock one, but i dented it drifting, so i went w/ the greddy, and was more than happy...i can send u pleny of pics...email me at [email protected], and ill forward you some pics if u want.

its really just a racing oil pan i guess.

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Nils
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I H8 UR DSM wrote:not really any gains...it looked like you race your cars though, by the 'slalom' results you had. The greddy pan holds about an extra court of oil...comes w/ a tap for a oil temp gauge...comes w/ about 3-4" baffles on each side, which are hinged, so when you turn, the hinge on the side your turning to will be closed, and the other will open, and dump the oil from that side into the middle of the pan (if your following, lol)...so basically it just prevents any starving of the oil pickup when making hard turns....it also looks perty : ), and it stronger than the stock pan....some people stock pans come dented, i guess u can just hammer them out. I kept my stock one, but i dented it drifting, so i went w/ the greddy, and was more than happy...i can send u pleny of pics...email me at [email protected], and ill forward you some pics if u want.

its really just a racing oil pan i guess.


OK, that is what I figured =)

What is the ball park retail cost on that pan?Sounds like a good buy.

take care,nils

Daunttless
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Its about 300 dollars retail, and if you plan on doing hard cornering I would definintely suggest it as well. And as Jesse said, they're very perty,t hey're also low profile.

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Nils
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Daunttless wrote:Its about 300 dollars retail, and if you plan on doing hard cornering I would definintely suggest it as well. And as Jesse said, they're very perty,t hey're also low profile.


thx.

n

I H8 UR DSM
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can u imagine the girls u can meet driving down 'vegas' in a 600hp supra? droooooool:drooling :drooling :drooling :drooling :drooling

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Nils
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I H8 UR DSM wrote:can u imagine the girls u can meet driving down 'vegas' in a 600hp supra? droooooool:drooling :drooling :drooling :drooling :drooling


LOL!

yes, I can.... I met one and now I am married to her =)

n

I H8 UR DSM
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duh, of course u know..i meant can the rest of us imagine, lol...

:bowdown

Daunttless
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Now why did you go and do a crazy thing like limiting yourself to one girl, unless she's one of those girls thats cool with more than one girl. : )

:icesangel

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Nils
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Daunttless wrote:Now why did you go and do a crazy thing like limiting yourself to one girl, unless she's one of those girls thats cool with more than one girl. : )

:icesangel


She is very pretty, super nice and she loves to race cars.... could it get any better?

She used to be a car mechanic before I met her and she lost her license twice for street racing her old 1st gen DSM =)

I consider myself a very lucky guy.

n

Daunttless
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Hehe, good enough reason for me. : )

But you shouldn't sell your supra for a house, and she shouldn't be letting you. =P

DET93
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I was curious why you were going to buy a PWR radiator instead of a Koyo.

I've also been looking into All Aluminum Racing radiators, and was just about ready to order a Koyo. Is there an advantage to the PWR?

The Koyo has a 53mm thick core and the tanks on the one I saw were highly polished. The Koyos are JDM and cost $375 from absoluteradiator.com , I've been told that the PWR radiators for the Silvia arn't available yet, so I haven't been able to get a price quote.

Do you know a source? I would need a S13 radiator.

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Nils
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DET93 wrote:I was curious why you were going to buy a PWR radiator instead of a Koyo.

I've also been looking into All Aluminum Racing radiators, and was just about ready to order a Koyo. Is there an advantage to the PWR?

The Koyo has a 53mm thick core and the tanks on the one I saw were highly polished. The Koyos are JDM and cost $375 from absoluteradiator.com , I've been told that the PWR radiators for the Silvia arn't available yet, so I haven't been able to get a price quote.

Do you know a source? I would need a S13 radiator.


Very good question.

I saw a PWR radiator in one of my buddies Supras and it looked like a top notch piece, but, I just called my friend over at SP Engineering and he said the PWR radiators for the 240 are very poor quality for the money and he recommended the Koyo. Fluidyne worked great in my Supra but they dont make one for our cars and I trust SP so I will probably get the Koyo Aluminum radiator.

take care,nils

I H8 UR DSM
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Ive got a Trust (greddy) 2 row aluminum racing radiator on my SR....Or, as we say "Greedy"......(prob not much better than a koyo for the money, but its definitly a niece piece :D )

jesse

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SRdS14
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i would definitely get a Z32 Fuel Pump over the walbro 255/ltr. i have the walbro in my car, but i still need more fuel for what i'm about to do..so if you plan on upgrading soon, i suggest the z32 FP

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Nils
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upgraded list...... swap should be happening soon =)

Low mile (10k KM) 98 black top SR20DETUpgraded SARD CPUBlitz Nur-SpecBlitz DPBlitz Oil coolerBlitz ClutchBlitz LM fmicGreddy GREX Oil PanKoyo Aluminum RadiatorWalbro Highpressure 255L pump300z fuel filterHKS Intake AdapterK&N Filter

Greddy Profec BGreddy Boost 60mm peak holdGreddy EGT 60mm peak hold

Sparco EVO SeatAutopower Rollcage

300zx LSDWhiteline Front Sway BarWhiteline Rear Sway BarOBX short shifter (is this piece any good or should I just save up for a C's shifter?)Battery trunk mount kit

Planning on staying with the stock turbo atleast for a year, once I decide to go bigger turbo/boost I'll get bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, FPR, new ECU etc...

take care,nils

I H8 UR DSM
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i wouldnt get a SARD ecu, only because its 'solid' right, in terms of trying to retune it. (i could be wrong, i just thought it came w/ a program, and wasnt tunable)JWT is a little better since it can be sent back to JWT and upgraded when you add mods, ie. injectors, turbo, fuel rail, etc...this way you wont have to do a SARD then another ecu when you go bigger...

You like the blitz parts dont ya, he he :D

OBX shifter is OK, (i wouldnt pay that much for a C's), but it comes apart on hard shifts for somepeople at the track...but you can pull it apart when you get it, use some of that stuff they use to install glass windows on the car (i forget what its called for somereason), and 'glue' it, so you wont ever have the problem of them coming apart. Its a two piece unit, thats why somepeople s come apart, but if you use a better method of sealing it it wont come apart

i wouldnt spend that much on a blitz DP when you can get one mendrel bent for like $50 bux cheaper, but if its a show car, then i get why you want it, otherwise, a 3" dp, is a 3" dp, coat it how you would like its no better or worse then any others, ya know...

Trial and Top Secret both make some nice exhaust i like over the blitz greddy or apexi, if you have the money....

some electric fans : )nismo makes a thermostat you might wanna look into too....

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Nils
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thx for the heads up.

I get really good prices on Blitz parts and most other parts I listed so that is what I am going with. As far as the ECU goes, I will stick to the SARD for now and then go with the HKS F-CON S when it is time to go biggger turbo =)

I personally have not heard great things about JWT ecu's, I know alot of guys on this forum likes them but I have had too many friends use them with no success.

Why do you recommend the electric fans? I'd assume that they cant flow as much as the belt driven stock piece at high speeds...

take care,nils

I H8 UR DSM
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belts = loss of power.

at high speeds, your fan doesnt need to be turning...(am i looking at that wrong?)

but you can get two 1950 cfm fans for a decent price, and it would be flowing almost twice as much as the stock fan...weigh less, take up ALOT less space.

people are amazed how much space you free up when they see my electrical fan over the 'cumbersome' stock fan and shroud...although i dont have a shroud now, which i think could be a downpoint, since it blows the hot air througout the engine bay, but i can make something eventually.

right now i just have one fan, but i need to add another.

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Nils
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I H8 UR DSM wrote:belts = loss of power.

at high speeds, your fan doesnt need to be turning...(am i looking at that wrong?)

but you can get two 1950 cfm fans for a decent price, and it would be flowing almost twice as much as the stock fan...weigh less, take up ALOT less space.

people are amazed how much space you free up when they see my electrical fan over the 'cumbersome' stock fan and shroud...although i dont have a shroud now, which i think could be a downpoint, since it blows the hot air througout the engine bay, but i can make something eventually.

right now i just have one fan, but i need to add another.


Sorry, I should have said that it flows more during high revs... not high speeds. The common consensus with club style road racers is that electrical fans cant flow enough for the continous abuse the engine is put through and does not cool down the engine enough. I think electrical fans are fine for daily driving and passes down the 1/4 mile every now and then but everyone I know that has road raced with only electrical fans have had over heating problems. You are right though, the stock fan assembly takes up alot of room and is cumbersome.

However, I would like to experiment with this issue and might buy some electrical fans down the line to see if they do the job, any reduced parasitic power loss is a big gain in my book =)

take care,nils


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