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SR20DET MOTOR BUILD (DVD) Now Shippinghttp://store.driftingshop.com/srmobudvdo15.html



SR20DET MOTOR BUILD DVDhttp://store.driftingshop.com/srmobudvdo15.html



http://store.driftingshop.com/srmobudvd ... r20det.php

http://store.driftingshop.com/srmobudvdo15.html



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http://store.driftingshop.com/srmobudvdo15.html

Modified by DRIFTING.com at 8:58 PM 11/26/2007

Modified by DRIFTING.com at 8:58 PM 11/26/2007

Modified by DRIFTING.com at 8:59 PM 11/26/2007
Modified by DRIFTING.com at 6:17 PM 6/12/2008

I just saw it.All in all, its quite good, and what was most interesting for me, was to see how someone else does this build, as i had no one to compare to with what i did.

Seeing how the Crank spins by hand, and comparing to what i did, and things like that.

There are a few bits wich are missing, and i think would be important to be in a disc like this.

For example:1) How to use a strech meter for the rod bolts - how to do it - as this cant be done if the cradle is installed before this procedure.2) How to install the Rings on the piston - How to correctly put them on, without deforming or breaking them.3) how to install the head components (Valves , Springs, etc...) , and how to use the apropiate tools -with the Head on, and Head off for the spings, and valve seals.4) You completley over looked the Water pump (Although streight foward to install, but still...)5) Installing of the 2 PEGS on the block surface, that sit the head properly in place,or checking they are there, Is a pretty importand detail to leave out.6) A few words on matching a correct bore HG to the Bore used, would be nice.7) ReChecking things with PasticGauge , how to do it.

Allso a few things that kind of bothered me:1)The way you apply the Silicone(RTV) in the movie.... It should be a "BED" of liquid, and not smeared. On the Crack back cover, for example.2) I am not sure if its a common practice for you not to do so, but i found than you really should applay RTV, on the front of the HG - where it seats over the front cover. Othervise, and especialy if the block was not decked with the Front cover on - it will leak oil.3)Mentioning the fact that the Block needs to be decked with the Front Cover on (Unless you did and i missed it).4) The install of the Valve cover - bolts, RTV, etc - Just to be complete.5)You forgot to mention the Gasket, or O ring, at the Oil strainer.

Allso, I was wondering about nstalling the pistons DRY and not WET as in the VID.I installed mine dry, and everything sat perfectly - only about 3% Looses on a leakdown (cold engine).Is there a defenet preferance to using wet or dry install ?

Again, all in all i enjoid the VID.It gives out some great info, that would defenetly benefit the begginer builder, or whoever wants reasurance that things come out right.

One more thing. Where would i be able to get that TEFLON Based lubricant you use.When i finished my build, the crank spined by hand freely But if i stoped, it would lock up because of the oil, and would need some more force to start spining again. Allways by hand, but in the VID it looks like it spins much freer. I gues thats cause of the Teflon Lubricant.Dont the Tflone get into the oil and contaminate it ?

Thanks again, for a very Good and informative VID.Now i know to look for the new type Chain tensioner .

Dany.

thank you,

This feedback will be applied to our RB25DET build DVD that is schedule to film in January.

If anyone else has already watch this DVD then please post your feedback here.

Master Chief wrote:1)The way you apply the Silicone(RTV) in the movie.... It should be a "BED" of liquid, and not smeared. On the Crack back cover, for example.

This is really up to the descretion of the builder. I have been building motors for 4 years now, and I was taught to lay a bead down, and then smooth it out by hand. What it does is it helps even the silicon over the mating surface and prevents low spots from happening in the silicon after it dries.

Ok, i agree that its the "builders" choice, at the end.

What about installing the Pistons WET, vs DRY ? Any views on that?

I allways installed them Dry and got great results (less than 3% leak down while cold)- Would there be a certain benefit to installing them WET ?I alwa thaught they go in easyer when dry.

Lastly, Where would i be able to get that TEFLON Based lubricant you use.When i finished my build, the crank spined by hand freely But if i stoped, it would lock up because of the oil, and would need some more force to start spining again. Allways by hand, but in the VID it looks like it spins much freer. I gues thats cause of the Teflon Lubricant.Dont the Tflone get into the oil and contaminate it ?

Thanks.

Master Chief wrote:Ok, i agree that its the "builders" choice, at the end.

What about installing the Pistons WET, vs DRY ? Any views on that?

I allways installed them Dry and got great results (less than 3% leak down while cold)- Would there be a certain benefit to installing them WET ?I alwa thaught they go in easyer when dry.

Lastly, Where would i be able to get that TEFLON Based lubricant you use.When i finished my build, the crank spined by hand freely But if i stoped, it would lock up because of the oil, and would need some more force to start spining again. Allways by hand, but in the VID it looks like it spins much freer. I gues thats cause of the Teflon Lubricant.Dont the Tflone get into the oil and contaminate it ?

Thanks.

Your question was forwarded

Thanks again!

I use Torco MPZ assembly lube. It's by far one of the best lubes I've used and I've gotten great results with it. Once I'm done with installation, my crank rolls like it's on ball bearings. But that has more to do with technique than the lube used.

And if teflon contaminated oil, why would they coat piston skirts with it or coat journal bearings?

What do you mean you fowarded my question ???

Hijacker - I ask because i dont know. Anyway, where can i get that lubricant you talk about ?

Tanks.

I was really being rhetorical. Teflon is ok to coat bearings and pistons with. Just don't go dumping quarts of it in your oil pan.

Do a google search for torco mpz assembly lube. You'll find retailers that way

Master Chief wrote:What do you mean you fowarded my question ???

Hijacker - I ask because i dont know. Anyway, where can i get that lubricant you talk about ?

Tanks.

Forwarded it to the engine builder.

1. Rod bolt stretch can be checked on the bench with the rod w/bearings torqued down on the crankshaft. You can check the bolt stretch easily that way, nothing in the way. The stretch was checked on ours and it fell with in ARP's torque spec, I had my machinist do it for me. They were also new bolts and when torqued are still in the plastic region so no deformation will happen (usually) when untorquing We didn't include it in the video because no one needing this video will usually have one.

2. The rings were put on in way as to not break them or bend them. I was showing how you can use your fingers, like the pliers on these rings, and install them fairly easily. Ring plier can and do break rings when people use them and don't know how much to open the gap to get it clear the piston.

3. This video was a documentary that I narrated not a how to video.

4. We decided that installing the water pump wasn't to difficult to install. If you can't install the water pump than you shouldn't be building a motor.

5. The "2 PEGS" (Dowel pins) that you refer to weren't mention, because they had already been installed at the machine shop to hone the block with the Torque Plate. Since I didn't need to remove them again I didn't install them in the video.

6. Resurfacing the block with the front cover would be important if the block was warped and need to have a .001 or more removed to flatten it. We installed a new front cover and only did a clean up pass on the block(.0005) it wasn't needed for this application.

7. By doing to bearing clearance and checking the thickness like I did, does not require Plasti-Gauge. A step that I don't do since I have the tools to do it a more precise way.

Bothering things

1. The RTV was put on with a bead. I smeared the back cover cuz I want to make sure that in doesn't leak cuz it is impossible to fix after the engine is in the car. Smearing it is another method that works but the big thing is use just enough RTV to seal, cuz the extra can squeeze into the engine an clog the oil screen.

2. The copper gasket spray that I use adds an extra seal to all sealing surfaces and the head gasket has an embossment that gets crushed when you tighten it down. The Factory manual doesn't show that you should put sealant there and I don't know of anyone doing it. If the front cover and block aren't even, you will have a leak, but I haven't had that problem with any of the motors that I have built.

3. Due to time constrains we just left that out, but kind of simple.

4.I thought we covered the Oil strainer/Pick up and gasket. If we didn't sorry.

The teflon bearing lube that I used I got from my machinist. The reason for the easy movement was more about the WPC Treatment and the fact that the bearing bores were round and parallel and the bores were round and parallel also. The teflon is just something that he recommended to me a few years ago and solved his bearing wear problem on intial start up. Torco MPZ is also a great lube I use it on all other surfaces. It all washes away as soon as the oil pressure gets there anyways.

Wet Vs. Dry Piston install

I was always taught to install wet. It helps the rings slide into the bore easier when installing the piston and during engine build up allows for easier rotation of the engine. Are your worried about breaking in the rings on intial start up and that is why you put them in dry? If you are than thats new to me. The rings will break in when you first drive anyways so I wouldn't worry about it. We break our engines in on the dyno so I don't worry too much about it cause I can load the engine and break them in properly.

Thanks for the Replay !

And yes, i was worried about the rings seatting in.

Since i dont have that Teflone lubricant, would you recomand using the Torco MPZ as a lubricant for the Bearins, during assembly.If not, what would you recomand i use - Something i can purchess somewhere.

I used only Oil, the last time BTW.

so im wondering when my dvd will be shipped because last i checked on the usps web site it still had not been shipped and i placed the order on 11/5. im not trying to be a d!ck im just wondering when im going to get it or if there is a problem. just let me know. thanks

Cool i think im going to check this out. Ive been wanting to learn and looking for a good resource for learning this type of stuff. Whats better than a video lol

sliksta1 wrote:so im wondering when my dvd will be shipped because last i checked on the usps web site it still had not been shipped and i placed the order on 11/5. im not trying to be a d!ck im just wondering when im going to get it or if there is a problem. just let me know. thanks

reshipping to your PO BOX

i need a sr20det short block

Photograph of the DVD Disk - early design with no title http://store.driftingshop.com/srmobudvdo15.html

you guys should make a rb26 install :]

all wheel drive baby !!

that would be insanely sick

migsk8 wrote:you guys should make a rb26 install :]

all wheel drive baby !!

that would be insanely sick

thank you,

we have a lead for this swap

This is our parts list;

Stock Forged Steel Crank micropolished, balanced, and cleaned

WPC Treated 87mm CP Pistons and Pins

Eagle Forged Connecting Rod w/ ARP 2000 Bolts

NPR Stainless rings WPC Treated

ACL Race Main, Rod, and Thrust Bearings

ARP Head and Main studs

Cometic .040 MLS Head Gasket

Stock Head 3 angle valve Job

JUN 272 11.5mm Camshafts

GReddy Adjustable Cam Sprockets

Peak Performance Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers

Peak Performance Bronze Valve Guides

Peak Performance Rocker Arm Stoppers

OEM Nissan SR20DET Gasket Set

OEM Nissan Front Cover and Oil Pump

OEM Nissan Timing Chain

OEM Nissan Revised Timing Chain Guides

OEM Nissan Water Pump

Greddy Aluminum Oil Pan

Just a warning so others don't experience the same thing, I ordered a SR20 DVD SWAP video from drifting.com and did not receive the DVD nor any confirmation that it was being shipped. It has been over two weeks and still nothing...

here's the link to the threadhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/303114

I am not trying to be a jerk but all I want is my DVD that I paid for so I can have the information to make sure I am doing my swap properly.

Thank you and sorry if this is the wrong way to go about this, but I have tried calling them and emailing them to no avail.

Thanks again.

Vacation time maybe. Thats where I wish I was!

tokendog wrote:Just a warning so others don't experience the same thing, I ordered a SR20 DVD SWAP video from drifting.com and did not receive the DVD nor any confirmation that it was being shipped. It has been over two weeks and still nothing...

here's the link to the threadhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/303114

I am not trying to be a jerk but all I want is my DVD that I paid for so I can have the information to make sure I am doing my swap properly.

Thank you and sorry if this is the wrong way to go about this, but I have tried calling them and emailing them to no avail.

Thanks again.

Please call us on Monday.

Tel.(877) 786-7694The BEST WAY to reach DRIFTING.com is by calling between 11AM-5PM (PACIFIC STANDARD TIME) If you are on the EAST COAST then call at 2PM.

If you reach our voicemail then CALL BACK AGAIN between 11AM-5PM (PACIFIC STANDARD TIME)http://store.driftingshop.com/contact.html

tokendog wrote:Just a warning so others don't experience the same thing, I ordered a SR20 DVD SWAP video from drifting.com and did not receive the DVD nor any confirmation that it was being shipped. It has been over two weeks and still nothing...

here's the link to the threadhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/303114

I am not trying to be a jerk but all I want is my DVD that I paid for so I can have the information to make sure I am doing my swap properly.

Thank you and sorry if this is the wrong way to go about this, but I have tried calling them and emailing them to no avail.

Thanks again.

im having the exact same problem...i ordered the sr20det motor build dvd on the 26th of last month and have yet to recieve it, im giving them some time because of the holidays, but it would be nice if they would have given me a confirmation that they had at least shipped my dvd, regardless im calling them tommorow...

happy to say that i got my dvd today...

boogerlovers wrote:happy to say that i got my dvd today...

How do you like the DVD?

BTW, we are still catching up so please call during business hours if you need help.http://drifting.com/contact_us.php

Finally got a chance to review this DVD today, and I have to say, it's VERY impressive!

The process is well-laid out, and I didn't notice any "shortcuts" or "halfassed" procedures... This would be JUST as good as having a professional engine builder walk you through your build.

IN FACT, I'll be tackling a blown redtop SR with the help of this DVD to throw in my '69 Roadster!

Buy the DVD. Watch it. Over and over. Build your own motor. Be cool. Pwn n00bs.

AZhitman wrote: Build your own motor. Be cool. Pwn n00bs.

The DVD is awsome! I have only watched it once and will watch it many times

Greg and Schanne,

thanks for the feedback; glad to know that we are on the right track

i have recently watch the dvd, its extremely helpful for a noob to engine building such as me ... made it pretty easy, to get my engine somewhat together. had a quick question about the piston ring compressor tool he used in the video, do you know where one could purchase such a tool????