SR20DET Build Questions

[wance]

I will be getting an sr soon and my plans are to tear it down and replace what needs to be replaced and upgrade the bottom end and maybe the top end. I was thinking of getting some CP pistons and Eagle rods and just stock bearings. My power plans are between 350-400 rwhp, what else should I do to the engine to make this happen? I don't know anything about head work so not really sure what to do there. The turbo I was going to get is a Garrett GT3071R and I want to be able to hit at least 20lbs and even up to 25lbs at the most. Will the trans be able to handle the power I'm looking for? I'm new to nissan motors but I have helped build an 92 Eagle Talon TSI so I'm not new to car stuff, so if anyone can tell me what more I need to do or not to do I will be very appreciative.

Thanks,
wance

[wance]

Anything?

[s13drifter88]

350 to 400 whp i wouldnt touch the bottom end. maybe swap the head studs for some ARP's. if you do swap them, dont remove the head. Just remove all the bolts in proper sequence and replace/retorque in the proper sequence. td05 20g will make that power for 1/2 the price of the 3071 and in the event of a failure theyre rebuildable. forcedperformance.com is where you can find them.

Best plan would be a capable turbo, a set of no less than 650cc injectors (Deatschwerks has great prices on their 750's), the z32tt maf and sonmething to tune it with. RS Enthalpy and Jim Wolf Technology are 2 great tuning solution sources. Some people dont prefer the chipped ECU but I like them and they do work just fine. Its a pretty affordable setup too. It should land you within your goals very easily.

Also, pick up a pair of rocker stoppers from frsport.com
theyre a nifty little trinket that can save your arss

[wance]

Thanks man. I know forced performance don't have the 20g's anymore(that was my plan). Do you know anywhere else I could get one? Also what about the trans will it hold up with that power?

[s13drifter88]

they dont have the t2 td06 20g's anymore. they have the t3 td05 20g. theyre pretty nasty too. save yourself some money, buy a megan turbo manifold, buy a t3 flange. have a welding shop cut off the old flange and weld on the t3. install and enjoy. The trans will be ok, its hard launches that do the most damage to a trans. If you enjoy drag racing try slipping the clutch a little off the line over dumping it.

[wance]

This will be my daily driver when I get it done so do you think the stock internals will last a long time? cause I dont want to have to pull the motor for that

[s13drifter88]

the stock internals will hold just fine at 400hp. local guy here Josh Lawson has a 97 black kouki, made 514whp all stock under the head gasket. red top sr

[wance]

Ok cool that will save me a grand which will make me that much closer to getting done thanks man

[wance]

Should I do any head work?

[s13drifter88]

hks rocker stoppers and the hks step 1 drop in cams. about $600 total

[PyR0NiAk]

s13drifter88 is correct on the bottom end stuff. Just make sure you have good compression. Unfortunately, the weak point of these motors is the head. The rocker arm stoppers are a wonderful idea, but you should also be upgrading springs and retainers. Solid lifters is always an AWESOME idea, and actually required before most people would even consider it a BUILT head. Also, I may be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure the 20G is a journal bearing turbo instead of ball bearing. While it will reach the same power levels, it won't get there nearly as fast. Also, you can pick up NEW Garrets for not too much more than a 20G. s13drifter88's claim of HALF the price means he's doing nothing but looking at website prices instead of speaking to vendors. Enjuku has saved me a TON of money, and so has CIP Motorsports (240sxmotoring.com). Speak to either of these companies and let them know you're from NICO. I'm pretty sure you'll get a good deal on most of the stuff you need.

[wance]

Ok thanks man. Do you have build thread for your car? I see its close to the same as I want if not the same setup

[wance]

Nevermind I found it. Did you ever get it running right? What numbers did you get?

[SxMachine]

I suggest you pull your oil pan before you go slapping any parts on as well. A compression test is all good and well but a physical check of your bearings could mean the life or death of your motor.

[wance]

Well when I get it I plan to take it completely apart and have it cleaned and check everything and replace what needs replacing. This will be my daily driver so I'm gonna make sure its solid before I drive it.

[s13drifter88]

either a 20g or 3071 should see you through to these numbers reliably with no problem. pyroniac is right, the fp 20g's are jb only while the 3071 offers a bb chra. i slightly disagree with you on moving to solid lift but hey, we all have our ways of going about things. i woulda thought the hks step 1 drop in cams would be fine for 400 and i dont think they require any head work to accomodate them. the rocker stoppers are great tho for any sustained revving cause the sr does have a few issues dropping rockers. whatever route you do choose good luck and I hope you see your goal

[PyR0NiAk]

The solid lifters are definitely not a must, but a BIG recommendation if you have the cash.

As far as my car goes wance, I lost 80% compression on cylinder 3. Bottom end is currently being rebuilt by National Speed Inc. in Wilmington, NC. My personal life went a little nutty, so the time for my car went away. Add that with the on base hobby shop raising their prices to use their shop, and not being allowed to do it at my home. (Base housing throws a fit if you get caught working on your car.) All of this pushed me to just paying National Speed to do it. I've seen their previous work, and it's amazing. Future plans for it are to add solid lifters, more fuel (1000cc injectors + Bosch 044), and an AEM EMS. Considering I have a JWT Rom Tune, I'll be happy with anything over 350whp. When I get the AEM EMS, I want to see well over 400.

[wance]

So I can pretty much get what I'm looking for on stock everything except fuel and turbo. Just everything else is just to make it more solid. Right?

[PyR0NiAk]

fuel, turbo, tune... Valve springs and retainers aren't a bad idea, either.

[wance]

I was kinda thinking of getting a gt2876r instead of the 3071. Will it spool any faster? When does it hit full boost? Can it handle 20 psi?

[wance]

What intake and exhaust manifold should I get? I don't want to spend anymore than $500 on both of them together.

[PyR0NiAk]

a 2876 will spool faster, but not reach as much power. Yes, it can hit 20psi, but 20psi isn't the same on one turbo from the next. My friend's 2876 hit 350whp on a rom tune, and 380whp on a pfc with 740cc injectors running at 80% duty cycle.

As far as your manifolds, if you can find a used Tomei Expreme, I highly recommend it. As far as the Intake mani goes, the ISIS is fine, but unless they fixed the issue with the IACV, you'll have to modify it to fit the IACV.

[s13drifter88]

stock intake is fine. the tomei is nice but the megan is a more affordable alternative. quality of craftsmanship isnt the same but they do work just fine. the stock ex mani starts to become restrictive a little past 300 so i would deff upgrade it if youre looking for 400hp.

Pyroniac, how does your 3071 do? Being t2 are you using an external gate or internal? What kind of power did you make. I know they come internal gate but Ive heard some bad things about them in t2 with choking, spiking and creeping when used on turbo's like that. Input appreciated

[PyR0NiAk]

Pyroniac, how does your 3071 do? Being t2 are you using an external gate or internal? What kind of power did you make. I know they come internal gate but Ive heard some bad things about them in t2 with choking, spiking and creeping when used on turbo's like that. Input appreciated

Internal. As mentioned above, I had 80% compression loss on cylinder 3. When I drove it to the on base hobby shop, it still seemed to be spooling pretty quickly. As far as boost creep/spiking, I have no idea at the moment. We'll see when the time comes. I should have the car back soon, but I'm also trying to pick up a different shell. If I get the new shell, the motor will be moving to the new one as soon as I get the chance. Mine has some rust behind the rear wheel on the passenger side, along with under the doors. It's a rebuilt salvage so I don't see any reason to invest money in fixing it, when I can get a clean titled rust free one for the same amount I'd have invested in it.

[wance]

Ok so my plan is to get the 2876, valve springs and retainers, new ex manifold, rocker stoppers, 850cc injectors, walbro pump, and that should get me where I want to go. I hope.

[PyR0NiAk]

You're forgetting the tune... You going to use a rom tune, or a stand-alone?

[wance]

Oh yeah I'm getting a rom tune

[PyR0NiAk]

My recommendation is JWT, though Enthalpy is typically cheaper.

[s13drifter88]

You might want to look into some cams too. Ive heard the stock cams start really holding you back around 350whp but i dont kno first hand for sure. A simple pair of drop in Tomei Poncams or HKS step ones should do the dirty for you.

[PyR0NiAk]

You might want to look into some cams too. Ive heard the stock cams start really holding you back around 350whp but i dont kno first hand for sure. A simple pair of drop in Tomei Poncams or HKS step ones should do the dirty for you.

Solid point. That 2876 with 380whp was using JWT C4s