sr20de and sr20det internal differences

For discussion of front-drive SR20DE, SR20VE and SR20DET engines!
driftsil40
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I have a spare sr20det shortblock taking up space in my garage and may be getting a se-r, id like to do a turbo setup and i would like to know if the pistons and rods from the det will go into the de. Im pretty sure the pistons will not sure about the rods and crank.


JustinVero
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driftsil40 wrote:I have a spare sr20det shortblock taking up space in my garage and may be getting a se-r, id like to do a turbo setup and i would like to know if the pistons and rods from the det will go into the de. Im pretty sure the pistons will not sure about the rods and crank.
As long as it is a FWD DET than everything will switch over. The only thing that wouldnt work would be the DE pistons in the DET as they dont have the notches for the oil squirters. The RWD DET parts should switch over as well, but why not just use the original DE as a whole? You wont make anymore power on the DET internals in the DE thatn you would with the DE, unless you had GTiR rods, as they are said to be a bit stronger than stock. But all the DEs and DETs are forged stock except for the pistons, so you wouldnt gain anything by switching the internals over unless the motor in the SER was blown. Even if it was blown, you can find FWD DEs all over for $300-$500 max, complete. I am making over 500whp on a stock JDM DE with cams, nothing else internally touched.

driftsil40
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I was not aware that the de came with forged internals. so basically the only thing it would be good for is to lower the copression. thanks

JustinVero
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driftsil40 wrote:I was not aware that the de came with forged internals. so basically the only thing it would be good for is to lower the copression. thanks
Yeah, but for one point of compression difference, its not worth the hassle.

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Zerogravity
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It all depends on your goals. Using the higher comp De block will limit how high your boost can be. The 8.5/1 will allow you to have more boost/less detonation/more timing on pump gas.

JustinVero
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Zerogravity wrote:It all depends on your goals. Using the higher comp De block will limit how high your boost can be. The 8.5/1 will allow you to have more boost/less detonation/more timing on pump gas.
If you have a good tune, you can run just as much boost on the 9.5:1 as you can on the 8.5:1. You shouldnt have "less detonation" you should have NO detonation on any setup, because any detonation, even a little over time will kill your motor. I have been running over 500whp on a STOCK (except for cams) JDM DE (9.5:1) for about 3 years now with ZERO deontation and ZERO problems. I run an 11.9-12.0:1 AFR. I run 15-16# on pump gas, which gets me around 400whp. Most people just dont tune carefully or have something plug-n-play like JWT and dont ever do anything else, which isnt a good tune. If you have a good tune, you can run anything just about. There was somone a couple years ago that ran 10.4:1 CR built FWD SR with pump gas around 15#, with no problems.

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nametakennow
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An A/F of 12 is pretty aggressive too, so that's good results.

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Ken Park
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The DE will be just fine to turbo. I did one in a Sentra SE-R on a JDM DE. You will be fine. The reason the compression is lower in the DET is because of the rounder combustion chamber shape vs. the DE's squared combustion chamber shape in the head. The heads are what are different. The pistons in both the DE an DET are the same and are dished. The only thing you wont get with the DE are the oil squirters, which I believe are on the rods.
Modified by Ken Park at 8:21 PM 11/27/2007

gtir007
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get some wiesco pistons, eagle rods, cometic head gasket, bigger injectors and you're good

justjuiceit4
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Would you mind listing the parts for your set-up that you have not listed yet? Intercooler, computer, etc. Very impressive numbers!

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2dr_sentra
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DE-T's came with sodium filled valves and oil squirter's too if i remember correctly.

DE- 9.5:1 CRDE-T 8.5:1 CRGTiR 8.3:1 CR <- i think thats right. lol.

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Nismo77
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As others have stated the 9.5/1 comp is no problem.. its all in the tuning as others have said..Ditch those sodium valves they are crap for flow..

Brian47590
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JustinVero wrote:
As long as it is a FWD DET than everything will switch over. The only thing that wouldnt work would be the DE pistons in the DET as they dont have the notches for the oil squirters. The RWD DET parts should switch over as well, but why not just use the original DE as a whole? You wont make anymore power on the DET internals in the DE thatn you would with the DE, unless you had GTiR rods, as they are said to be a bit stronger than stock. But all the DEs and DETs are forged stock except for the pistons, so you wouldnt gain anything by switching the internals over unless the motor in the SER was blown. Even if it was blown, you can find FWD DEs all over for $300-$500 max, complete. I am making over 500whp on a stock JDM DE with cams, nothing else internally touched.
So then if I wanted to replace the internals on my FWD SR20DE then I can use aftermarket parts that are sold for RWD SR20DET like that in the Silvias?? If that's the case, then the market for stroker kits is that much better.

JeremyNissan
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Brian47590 wrote:
So then if I wanted to replace the internals on my FWD SR20DE then I can use aftermarket parts that are sold for RWD SR20DET like that in the Silvias?? If that's the case, then the market for stroker kits is that much better.


the RWD crankshafts i am pretty sure are the same. All sr20 cranks are the same with some exceptions. The sr20ve and roller rocker motors come with a half-counterweight crank. It saves 8lbs over the standard DE/DET crank. The GTiR crank has larger filets for the bearing surfaces and diff flywheel bolt patter. All rods are the same except the GTiR rods which are beefier.

oil squirters on the DET are in the block. I would stick with the DET block because the oil squirters will allow more tuning flexibility. Or you can machine the DE block for the squirters.

Lower compression is your friend. It allows you to do big boost on a budget.


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