sr20 upgrade essentials

[blackieblack]

im new to nicoclub and i know there are many who are more knowledgable. so one of my many questions in my quest to have a good running sr20det 240. what are reccomended upgrades? or what should i concentrate on firstly? so far: sr20det redtop, stock everything except walbro 255 feul pump, ACT clutch kit and presure plate, apexi ws 3in exhaust system, ebay intercooler, cutom intercooler piping, blitz dd blowoff valve, apexi super AFC. i have about $2400 dollar budget. i want to upgrade rear end soon. then injectors and fuel rail and z32maf. then turbo and radiator. those are my short term plans. i wanna buy the expensive stuff first. then worry about suspension and body lastly. i really need advice from other owners on what to do. im open to any info and suggestions. aswell as any useful experiences. please, please!

[blackieblack]

also a blitz turbo timer. i was thinking of a j30 lsd but there are others.

[thechinamannN]

woah 2400 budget? i think like a redtop motorset is around 2100 without shipping costs

[FSUDrifter]

um he already has the sr i believe

there is an RWD SR forum that this should be moved to...

[lrb_2000]

maybe the $2400 is after he bought/buys the sr20?

[masticatingcow]

um he already has the sr i believe

there is an RWD SR forum that this should be moved to...

Done and done.

[Morph]

um he already has the sr i believe

there is an RWD SR forum that this should be moved to...

[da40]

what????

[SR20Essex]

If your looking for reliability... Radiator, water pump, thermostat, new gasket on the turbo and manifold (for the manifold, get one of those multi-layer nismo ones and use locking manifold nuts for both the turbo and the manifold), several oil changes in the first 2k miles, front crank seal, fuel filter after the 255lph fuel pump install, spark plugs... and just because I'm crazy, I did a heavy duty oil cooler. The clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate..etc should have been done with the swap. And run redline in the transmission and differential (amazing difference)For performance it depends on what your looking for. My setup has very low lag and an even useable power curve setup for autox or track racing, not drag really. S15 turbo (13lbs boost- SAFC2 Dyno tuned), stock manifold, Greddy Dump pipe, 3in down/test/apexi N1 catback, lightweight underdriven pullies, dual flexalite fans, aluminum drive shaft, K&N cone filter, Splitfire coil packs, hyper grounding kit.

There is a longer list but its hurting my head thinking about it. My setup is about the best of the best without doing the Z32 MAF and injector upgrade or even so much as touching the motor (headgasket, valvetrain work, forged internals etc). Its strait stock motor with all the little HP helping things on the outside but with a bit more boost that is still said to be "safe".

[574-240sx]

look into aftermarket oil pan, underdrive pulley for the water pump, cams, S15 turbo, VLSD if you dan't fell like spending money on a clutch type diff, 550/555cc injectors, multi layer metal headgasket

[blackieblack]

okay that seems to help me by giving me ideas. i live in milwaukee. honda scene and dsm scene are strong. 240 owners are getting there feet wet around here. it is booming now though and although there is alot of info on the web i would rather get info from real owners with experience.

[blackieblack]

i know that there are a good variety of lsd out there. but i was wondering what personal experiences anyone has been through that may help me. also i heard that i should change the oil pickup from a sr20 blacktop. can anyone shed light on what that even means and if its necesary?

[SR20Essex]

The oil pickup should be the same for both motors. Get an oil pressure gauge and watch it closely if its not doing what it should; ~50psi cold idle, ~25psi warm idle, ~75psi cold freeway, ~65psi warm freeway, (warm means oil temp above 140F) or at least these are the numbers I'm getting from my S14 SR20. I also have the oil filter relocation (huge mobil 1 filter) and cooler so that may have an affect on it. These numbers can also be affected by the type/viscosity of oil your running. I'm running 10w30 Royal Purple (which Ive heard is too thin so I might switch back to Mobil 1 advanced supersyn 10w30).

The reason people might be suggesting a new pickup is because its common for them to get dented in the shipping process because they are so close to the bottom of the oil pan.

[Rosco]

*threadjack*Redline for your transmission gets too hot. I'm running that in my transmission and my shift-boot leather balloons up like a hot air balloon! As for oil I'd reccomend Mobil1 15w50...10w30 is kinda thin. Redline is great for your rear-end though. I'm gonna switch to Royal Purple for transmission fluid and see if thsat runs any cooler.

[blackieblack]

this is more helpful than i thought it would be. what about castrol syntec ?

[blackieblack]

also what lsd setupdo you guys have?

[sr20detmaybe]

i swapped in a stock vlsd from a 240, does fine for me with my power thus far

[blackieblack]

is a radiator upgrade necessary. those rads are pricey. and i know that it will help with the cooling factor but is it a must have mod.

[91gst]

i dont think its a must have mod when you first start installing upgrades but once you get serious your motor will be flowing a lot more air and generating more heat so a radiator upgrade might be a good idea. itll keep your motor cool in the summer and at the track. Search on ebay for a koyo, you can usually find them for $320 shipped.

[Redtop Man]

i find using a thicker trans fluid to be better. but thats just a personal thing i guess. I feel safer using thicker fluids. after some problems with previouscars running thin oils im scared into using at least 10-40 or 20-50, or a straight 40 sometimes... a 10-30 scares me, and in synth is ussualy even thinner. engine i stick with straight 40 as well, in my honda prelude im running stright 70 lol, Kendall racing oils!!! takes a few extra minutes to warm up and get oil pressure and temps up, but i can wait. otherwise id say stick with maintenance mods first. most where listed above, then whatever you have left work on getting a solid base to build from, being things like radiator/fans, and then whatever other mods youd like with the rest

[rkreimer10]

hey man whats up i live in racine. and im on my second swap. the one im building now im aiming for 300+whp. if you wana come check out my set up let me know ill be more than happy to show you. the motor is out right now and will hopefully dropping it in this weekend so if you wana take a trip to check it just hit me up at [email protected]

[partymonster 975]

this is a pretty sweet thread.

[240TweakerNewbee]

*threadjack*Redline for your transmission gets too hot. I'm running that in my transmission and my shift-boot leather balloons up like a hot air balloon! As for oil I'd reccomend Mobil1 15w50...10w30 is kinda thin. Redline is great for your rear-end though. I'm gonna switch to Royal Purple for transmission fluid and see if thsat runs any cooler.

My transmission never gets hot with Redline 90w gear oil (it just doesn't, maybe your transmission has other problems). It also made 100% difference in the smoothness shifting. Let me explain it this way; I put Redline in at the same time I did a C's short shifter (I also packet some red-n-tacky in there), when I first did the switch it was hard to shift, once that redline got worked into the transmission it went back to being just as easy to shift as the normal throw. I recently sat in a $400,000 Porsche Carrera GT that has the same feel shifter as my 240.

15w50 is too thick to get into my lifters and makes them tick pretty loud (I ran that viscosity once). I also recently read that the larger the spread (15-50 vs 10-30) the more thickening agent in the oil, which means there is less of what actually protects your internals from friction. Thickening agent reacts to heat to thicken the oil but also breaks down faster than actual oil. Moral of the story... run the viscosity the manufacturer recommends.

[blackieblack]

and what does anyone have to say about a greddy intake plenum? anyone have this. i heard you lose power in the lowr rpm's. true or false? should i just keep it stock?shootin for 300whp

[rkreimer10]

stock will be fine for 300whp.

[rkreimer10]

if your shooting for 300whp you should come to racine this weekend and check out my setup. you can take notes as to what you will need plus get a look at everything that will need to be done, or just to hang out and shoot the ****. wel llmk 262-902-5109.

[blackieblack]

if your shooting for 300whp you should come to racine this weekend and check out my setup. you can take notes as to what you will need plus get a look at everything that will need to be done, or just to hang out and shoot the ****. wel llmk 262-902-5109.

ill swing by tomorrow before 2:00 pm. or so. i have to work at night. ill call you tomorrow or later on tonite. leem know if tomoorow is inconvenient. thanks

[blackieblack]

does anyone esle have anyhting to say goddamnit. spill the beans!!!!!

[blackieblack]

lets talk fuel pressure regulator. so i have i safc. do i need fpr? cause i was looking at a synchronic fpr. wich automatically adjusts and i was wondering if anyone had this setup?

[otterman]

I'd recommened getting the radiator before you do the turbo upgrade, or maybe even befor the injector/maf upgrade.

And I know you said you wanted to worry about suspension last but you should probably jack up your car and make sure your bushings are in good shape. Not sure if you got a S13 or not but it's a pretty old car and they are usually worn out.