SR20 takes forever to start and has terrible idle.

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kornmanz
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Car: 89 240sx Hatch SR Powa'd
Location: Santa Fe, NM
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I'm thinking maybe my IAC is toast. I finally got the tubing done correctly in that area but the car takes absolutely forever to start. When the car was running good it sometimes would take a few cranks to start but nothing like it is now. I have to sit there giving it gas here and there and cranking it more than a few seconds at a time does nothing to help it start. The only way I can start it is take 10 minutes cranking for a few turns, turning off the ignition, waiting 10 seconds, and repeating. It will only start if the first or second crank gets it going. Any more cranking does absolutely nothing but wear out my starter.

When it does start man its choking itself. It will putter and be at maybe 200 rpm shaking violently until it finally catches itself. Then it'll rev to about 1600 rpm and then you'll see it decreasing slowly to 1000 and then at 1000 it will drop to 600rpm and die out quickly.

I have a z32 maf with an apexi safc 2 tuner. I def have some kind of electrical problem. I once screwed up the ignition wiring through the wheel well because of my suspension and rims. Should I re-check that wiring? Maybe check the maf wiring? What kind of power levels should I be seeing in this wiring? I have a meter but don't know what it should be at.

Basically I'm asking nico where I should look? If I cannot get this problem fixed by next semester I will just drop my car off at a shop.


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240life
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:02 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX S13 Coupe SR20DET blacktop
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Check your start signal fuse, verify that it isnt blown also verify that your getting voltage when the engine is cranked (at the start signal pin). I would also check to see if the injectors or seals are leaking, and possibly check turbo to manifold gasket. If this problem has only been an issue since the wires got chewed by your tires, I would verify that all connections are soldered and shrink wrapped properly.. I would also double check your safc settings and make sure your good to go. I might recommend a Emance tune at the very least, thats what I run (when the engine is in a car lol) 21psi all day and it runs around 11 under full boost on my wideband. I have had no issues with his tune and would have no problem recomending it to friends or family. You got a s14 Sr20det FSM, if not you need to download one it comes in handy :chuckle:

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kornmanz
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Car: 89 240sx Hatch SR Powa'd
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Yeah there is a small gap in my turbo to downpipe. I used to have a problem with my turbo to manifold but I fixed that real good and put pics in my build thread. I will check the start signals. After checking the fuse box where will I find the signal wiring?

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240life
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX S13 Coupe SR20DET blacktop
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kornmanz wrote:Yeah there is a small gap in my turbo to downpipe. I used to have a problem with my turbo to manifold but I fixed that real good and put pics in my build thread. I will check the start signals. After checking the fuse box where will I find the signal wiring?
Fuse panel by the drivers door its a 10 amp fuse. I will need to check online to find the pin and wire color, I dont have the info available this second, but I believe it is the orange wire on your ecu that is conneted at the dash connector on the passenger side (not 100% on this, as its been a while) this might be the reason your having trouble starting it. Is the vehicle starting fine after it warms up? If it is I would bet your start issue is in that wiring, if not I would eliminate it as an issue. You might want to test your alternator too, car might be running poorly due to a weak alt after it finally starts.

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kornmanz
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Car: 89 240sx Hatch SR Powa'd
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I was looking at the alternator recently and its funny you would mention that. There's a red plug/clip on it that has a wire that seems to be pulled out. I am not sure how I would fix it but that could easily be the cause of it. I'll check it out tomorrow and get some better pics along with checking out that fuse box. I might have to completely remove the alternator to repair this wiring correctly.

Thanks for the help 240life! I would really like not having to resort to a shop to fix my car for me as I can use the money I'd spend on labor on more parts.

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240life
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After reviewing the FrSport wiring guide I was correct, it is the orange wire that connect to the dash plug, you need to verify that 12 volts is making it to the connector that is on the passenger side of the dash when the ignition is in start mode. From there it goes to the ecu to tell it that the vehicle is being cranked over. Hope that helps you a bit :biggrin:

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kornmanz
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Yeah I'll check the voltages tomorrow after checking the alternator and fuses. I'm having a hard time getting the glove box out cause one of the screws is at an awesome angle lol. Is there anything else I should check if all of this is fine and it still has issues?

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kornmanz
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So I went to fix the alternator wiring and found a black wire that wasnt hooked to anything and couldnt hook onto the bolt stud in the following picture. Any idea what it may be? I was fixing the awesome wiring in this area because it decided to disconnect on me. The alternator is the blue part. The red circle is the wire in question and the arrow is pointing to the bolt that it doesnt fit on but another white wire does.

Image

I checked my fuse box in the car and 3 fuses were showing power on only one post so I gotta go pick up some fuses tomorrow and replace them. Then I'll give it a start up and see if anything changed. If not I'll go and find that orange wire.

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240life
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Your alternator should have the plug up top, the 12v wire on the big bolt (has the rubber boot) and then a 8mm bolt should connect that ground (loose wire) to the body of the alt. I should at some point be going to my engine so I can take a pic if you need it :bigthumb:

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kornmanz
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so there should be two grounds then? Cause a white wire is connected via a small bolt but this black one wont fit on that bolt. Its kinda just hangin there. So I need to find an 8mm bolt to screw in somewhere on the alternator casing. Its weird because I don't think this was ever hooked up. The wiring above it was ripped apart too which was nice.

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240life
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kornmanz wrote:so there should be two grounds then? Cause a white wire is connected via a small bolt but this black one wont fit on that bolt. Its kinda just hangin there. So I need to find an 8mm bolt to screw in somewhere on the alternator casing. Its weird because I don't think this was ever hooked up. The wiring above it was ripped apart too which was nice.
Hmmm you got better pics of where that wire is coming from and the back side of your alternator?

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kornmanz
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Yeah I'll try to get better pictures. I hate dealing with wiring. :(


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