SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question....
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thang nguyen
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SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question....
Hey guys, should I sleeve my redtop or not? My plans are forged internals, perhaps 87mm, built valvetrain to rev 8500 rpm, GT35r with 850cc and AEM EMS....dunno about boost range and HP goals yet but needs to be reliable for weekend joy rides.
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Hijacker
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'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
I would decide on your HP goals before you start buying all that stuff.
The aftermarket parts are expensive, and if your goals are only in the 300-350 range, they would be overkill as the stock bottom end can safely handle up to 400.
Headwork is the primary concern of a built SR. The head is the weakspot in an otherwise strong package. Do your research and start considering what you're gonna get to make it safe to rev with.
And as far as sleeves go, you can get away with boring to 87mm without sleeving. Any further, and then I would suggest sleeving. Most people I see sleeve an SR typically do it when they want to cram an 89mm piston in the block.
Again, I emphasize deciding what you want your power goals to be and then start working on a parts list to get you there.
The aftermarket parts are expensive, and if your goals are only in the 300-350 range, they would be overkill as the stock bottom end can safely handle up to 400.
Headwork is the primary concern of a built SR. The head is the weakspot in an otherwise strong package. Do your research and start considering what you're gonna get to make it safe to rev with.
And as far as sleeves go, you can get away with boring to 87mm without sleeving. Any further, and then I would suggest sleeving. Most people I see sleeve an SR typically do it when they want to cram an 89mm piston in the block.
Again, I emphasize deciding what you want your power goals to be and then start working on a parts list to get you there.
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thang nguyen
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Re: SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question.... (thang nguyen)
As far as parts go, the only major parts missing is the pistons and rods and turbo kit. My goals are 500 streetable HP. I've heard that the Sr block is sustainable with 87 mm bore and 350 to 400 hp but I would like to be on the safe side. And would the stock crank sustain such goals?
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Master Chief
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Re: SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question.... (thang nguyen)
The OEM Crank would be good for about 1000HP, more the enough.
About the sleeves, i am just at the same dillema. I just rebuilt my motor with Dartons, and they Leak coolant into the oil pan.
Sleeve instalation is like picking a number to win the lottery.They can Sink, or Leak, or actualy do the job.
From my research i have decided that unless you plan to go for more than 87mm, or have a damage block you are trying to save - THERE IS NO NEED FOR THEM.
The OEM sleeves have a 5 mm wall thikness - the same as DARTONS.They will never sink, and never leak coolant.
The cance of getting a doggy fitting, and ruining the block, is not worth it. Not to mention building the whole motor, and then having to tear it up again.
I am now looking for a new block, to rebuild without sleeves. I made a mistake.
Most people that run about 400-500 with STD bore, do it on OEM Sleeves.
Check these guys out - 885HP on OEM Crank and OEM Sleeves :http://www.madtech.de
Its all about the tuning at the end !
About the sleeves, i am just at the same dillema. I just rebuilt my motor with Dartons, and they Leak coolant into the oil pan.
Sleeve instalation is like picking a number to win the lottery.They can Sink, or Leak, or actualy do the job.
From my research i have decided that unless you plan to go for more than 87mm, or have a damage block you are trying to save - THERE IS NO NEED FOR THEM.
The OEM sleeves have a 5 mm wall thikness - the same as DARTONS.They will never sink, and never leak coolant.
The cance of getting a doggy fitting, and ruining the block, is not worth it. Not to mention building the whole motor, and then having to tear it up again.
I am now looking for a new block, to rebuild without sleeves. I made a mistake.
Most people that run about 400-500 with STD bore, do it on OEM Sleeves.
Check these guys out - 885HP on OEM Crank and OEM Sleeves :http://www.madtech.de
Its all about the tuning at the end !
Re: SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question.... (Master Chief)
sounds like the machine shop that you had install them messed up to me. I wouldn't blame that on the darton sleeves themselves.Master Chief wrote:About the sleeves, i am just at the same dillema. I just rebuilt my motor with Dartons, and they Leak coolant into the oil pan.
Sleeve instalation is like picking a number to win the lottery.They can Sink, or Leak, or actualy do the job.
The OEM sleeves have a 5 mm wall thikness - the same as DARTONS.They will never sink, and never leak coolant.
I am now looking for a new block, to rebuild without sleeves. I made a mistake.
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Master Chief
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Re: SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question.... (karmakaze)
Read again what i wrote ! I wasnt blameing DARTON - There sleeves are top notch ! I was talking about the Sleeves instalation only, and about the actual need for it.
Even the best machine shops, mess up sleeve instlation some times - taking that into account, and the energy and money that goes into a rebuild - you have to ask yourself, if its worth while , especially when its not nesessary.
Even the best machine shops, mess up sleeve instlation some times - taking that into account, and the energy and money that goes into a rebuild - you have to ask yourself, if its worth while , especially when its not nesessary.
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doridori23
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Re: SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question.... (Master Chief)
If they fudged on the clearances then it is their responsibility to repair the problem. End of story and threadjacking
thang-Who is going to build your motor? If you plan on a streetable 500hp I would highly suggest getting a well versed SR builder. The cost of freight will far outweigh any problems you'll have. Also remember the bigger the turbo the bigger the lag. with a GT35 you'll not be in boost till about 5000 RPM possibly 5500. You head build should be a high priority for you to get extra RPM and airflow otherwise your just creating so much backpressure its not even funny.
thang-Who is going to build your motor? If you plan on a streetable 500hp I would highly suggest getting a well versed SR builder. The cost of freight will far outweigh any problems you'll have. Also remember the bigger the turbo the bigger the lag. with a GT35 you'll not be in boost till about 5000 RPM possibly 5500. You head build should be a high priority for you to get extra RPM and airflow otherwise your just creating so much backpressure its not even funny.
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thang nguyen
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Re: SR20 Sleeved or Not???? that is the question.... (doridori23)
I am skeptical of the lag as well. As far as my valvetrain, I have step 3 Crower cams, springs and titanium retainers, RAS and Solid lifters .... all of which plus future greddy intake manifold should sufice air inlet to allow me to rev to 8500+ rpm. And as far as my turbo choice....I'm leaning towards Turbonetics T62-1. Could anyone give their opinions between the GT35r and the T62-1?