SR20 redtop MAF wires? didnt come with plug and cant figure out wires for maf!

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mackdaddy240
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I Just swapped a sr20 into my 90 240sx it runs but it runs like crap, it wont idle way to rich I think, and the problem is I have a 3 prong maf off my old ka, when I got the sr20 harness there was no plug for the MAF, but there were 3 wires with nothing on them, black, white, black/white. I thought those were them so I extended them to the maf and matched colors, but I dont think the maf is working, runs the same plugged in or not. So somebody help me does the sr20 have the same color code? anyone have pic of where the wires come from that go to the maf? Help me ou techs!


NISTECH
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It is the wire lead coming off the harness that feeds the distributor. It is the lead just before the distributor on that line. This is how the wiring is ran to the connector note the orientation of the wires i respect to the keys on the connector. You are looking at the connector as if its the harness side.

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mackdaddy240
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Thanks for the input, but there is no distributor?? DO you have a pic of what your talking about?

NISTECH
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sorry. My mind was thinking KA when I posted. The book actually says crank angle sensor. Which is located inside the distributor..lol I was looking in a srdet book.

574-240sx
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Black/White - (Power)

Black - (Ground)

White - (Signal)

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mackdaddy240
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574-240sx wrote:Black/White - (Power)

Black - (Ground)

White - (Signal)
Thanks, I have it spliced into these wires, but, when I have them connected to where it will run, the A=ecu input has 10 volts when the keys on, the power has nothing. I have the signal as black and white which gives about 10, so I switched the white with white and black the way its suposed to be and it wont even run, I'm thinking that there is no signal from the ecu, so when I run the power supply to signal the ecu thinks its getting 10 volts instead of 3 or whatever its suposed to have so it dumps TONS of fuel, runs very rich, back firing wont idle very well. You think the MAF might be not sending a signal to the ecu to get the voltage? the 2 wires in the MAF look good. Whats crazy is it will run when I have the wires hooked up backwards but not if they're hooked up right. Anybody ever run into something similar? Its killin me

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mackdaddy240
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Oh yeah I'm using a ka maf

180fan
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match the colors.

SR plug has space for 4 male connectors to poke out but has only 3 comin out of it. We'll label em A B C D

The SOHC KA maf has 3 male connectors and 3 space for only 3 connectors. We'll label em A B C

match em up like thisA -> AB -> BC -> C

are you using the SOHC mafs or are you trying to use a DOHC mafs (which won't work)?

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mackdaddy240
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Honestly I'm not totally sure, I had a sohc in my car at first then I bought a dohc, and during the swap I bought a bunch of parts, extra power steeting, ac, maf, thottle body. After I finished the swap over a year ago I had a extra maf I cant remember if its from my sohc or my dohc. I'm going to get a sohc maf monday to be sure that thats not the problem, but its back firing and idles like crap the whole engine shakes.

NISTECH
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Can you read the part number on the MAF. It is usually stamped on it somewhere. If so post it and I will try to check.

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mackdaddy240
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Where do you get your part number refrences from? I'd like to know for future reference. But for now just help me out with this, There are quite a few numbers on it I'm not sure when you need There is 22680 40F00 Then under thatAFH50-04 Then under that one9Y15Hitachi.I'm going to a salvage yard to pick one up for $50 right now, so hopefully this ones from my DE, if not, I have a sohc MAF for sale and I still have a rich running sr20. Or maybe this one is just bad? you know if you can test the ohms when its not even plugged in to check to see if its ok?

NISTECH
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22680-40F00 is for a sohc.

I sign in to my dealer account and look them up. A DOHC s-13 is 22680-53F01 the s-14 has yet a different one it is 22680-70F05

180fan
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did you try at least cleaning the maf first? do the regular stuff before going out to shell out your hard earned cash.

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mackdaddy240
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Yeah I tried cleaning it, but it didnt work, I went ahead and bought another one. Problem still there, so after I got off work fixing other peoples cars I started on mine, here it is 2:30am and I'm very happy It was still missing so I pulled my coil packs one at a time till I found the miss, #3 so I cleaned the plug, very black way to rich. realized it had to be the injector, so I pulled the injector and the o ring was cracked pretty bad, put a new o-ring and problem solved, idles smooth, still a little rich because it backfires when I get on it and let off the throttle, i'm going to check the rest of the o-rings tomorow. Everythings good except that my idle speed motor is retarded At least I think thats what the problem is, when I'm running above 3,000 rpm and push on the clutch the idle drops to around 100-300 rpm and dies half of the time. I thought it was because it was running way to rich but that wasnt it. tried spraying carb cleaner and wd40 into the idle speed motor fresh air duct but didnt seem to do anything except make me gag. Anyone run into this??? any ideas would be very helpful. And thanks for all your help so far.


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