Sr20 problem starting

[idamaster]

It will turn over, hesitate to start then not start. I can get it to start if I pull the fuel pump fuse, start the motor, let it die, then put the fuse back in and start it again. I just changed the plugs today thinking that that was the problem . Just took the car out for a drive. Started fine at my house 2-3 times. I get to where I was going to go, turn the car off come back 5 minutes later and try to start it and it happens again. I use the pull the fuse process and I drive home turn the car off and right back on a second later and it starts with the starter grinding. Once the motor starts it will run fine.

[idamaster]

My guesses for right now are the FPR, or the O rings. How would I check both?

[mau5trap]

dood I'm having the same problem with my sr and I just bought it like few hours ago.

[idamaster]

Ive checked 2 of the 4 injectors with good O-rings. Im about to check the other two once I can find a way to get the retainer screws out because theyre tight. Im pretty sure it is my FPR though because all of the sparkplugs have alittle show of running a little rich.

[idamaster]

I ordered a FPR from Phase2, once I install it Ill let you know if it helps. It should be set to 40 PSI right? Or 36? You set it by pulling the vacuum line at idle and letting it build the pressure and then adjusting it right?
Modified by idamaster at 8:36 PM 1/19/2010

[blueballa]

could be a bad injector. take out the cas, turn it with your hand slowly with the key all the up but not engine start. you should each injector fire in order. check to make sure they are all firing.

[idamaster]

Im pretty sure its not a bad injector since Im pretty sure there is too much fuel and thats what is causing it to not starting. My guess is that the FPR is building up too much pressure and is causing the motor to flood with too much fuel. The reason I guess that is because if I cut off the fuel pump the motor will start after cranking it 2 or 3 times.

[blueballa]

yeah, but did you consider that a bad injector can also leak in extra fuel causing it to flood as well? same thing happened it my friends KA, but i feel what your sayin. if the pfr doesnt fix it. you know where to look next.

[idamaster]

Yeah ill just lay the injectors on top of a cardboard box and turn the ignition on and see if they leak. I don't think its just one cylinder thats flooding, I think all are, but Ill check it out if it keeps doing it.

[idamaster]

Update - Just installed my new Adjustable FPR, set it to 40psi with the vac line disconnected. Drove around fine came home to see if it would start and it wouldnt. I pulled the fuel rail out of the manifold and set them on top of some cardboard, turned the ignition on but didnt start the car.... No leaks. HALLLLLLLLP

[idamaster]

This is taped after I drove the car to warm it up. If the car has been sitting for a while it will start fine.

[blueballa]

just a thought, check you ecu.

[idamaster]

Yeah im about to check for codes once I find the write-up on which way to turn the screw

[idamaster]

Got the code, 13, took off the older sensor, while tightening the new one I snapped of the plastic There goes 20 dollars, and now have to drive to the other side of town to get another one.

[USMCgetsome]

seriously bro it's your MAF. I ran into the same damn problem with my rb25det. When cold she would start up nice and fine and even idle nicely. You'd get it up to temp and she would start to choke and lose power when coming off throttle and stopping at a red light. At the red light she'd turn off completely and then i'd be stuck trying to get her started again. Very embarassing. I couldn't figure it out at all even used my safcII to read the damn maf and voltages. You could slowly see the voltages and air % slowly degrade at normal operating temp and a few miles of driving.

sound like your prob? Cause i think it is.

[idamaster]

The car has never shut off on me like that though. If the coolant sensor isnt the problem then Ill do that next. Would maf cleaner suffice or would I need to replace the maf. I dont think it is the maf though because after the motor starts the car will run and drive fine, its just that it gets flooded at start up.

[idamaster]

After all of this work it turned out to be the CTS, didnt think it was it because the car used to have it unplugged when I bought it and it ran fine.