Sr20 Issues...Will not crank, the starter just clicks HELP

[Mr. White]

Okay so, I finally found an intact body harness for my car. I threw those in (inside and engine bay harnesses) and hooked everything up.

So i tried to start it. I got power but when I went to crank it, I did nothing. great. So I left it for the night since it was getting dark. The next day I go to start it, I got no power as if the battery was dead. which it was.

I had someone help me jump the car, this time when I tried to start it the starter just clicks and clicks rapidly. So I tried to start it with a screw driver and it did the same thing. just clicks. Then, I tried hitting the starter with a hammer and I get the same results. I'm really stumped.

The harnesses I put in are from a dual cam car, but my lower harness is the same one the car has had in it. the car is a 90. on the lower harness, there is a connector that doesn't go to anything on the new harness, but always went to something on the old harness i had. I has four wires coming from it - a black, red yellow/blue, and I can't remember the last. The motor is a Sr20det with an S13 block and an S14 Kouki head.

Could really use some help!

[moso]

starter rapidly clicking is a sure sign of insufficient voltage to the starter....aka, your battery is dead.

[Mr. White]

Ok, so I just replaced the battery and it is still doing it. the car gets good power everywhere else.

[Mr. White]

Took off the starter and tested it. It span fine. I put it bck on the car and it did the exact same thing. I tested the starter signal wire and it is getting 12 volts. I'm really stumped on what it could be. anyone have any ideas?

[moso]

it spinning off the car really isnt a good test of a starter. it takes a lot of amperage to spin that motor, if the starter is binding it could be trying to draw more power than you have. I still am going with insufficient power at the starter. check your grounds. if you have another or they are cheap you can try replacing the starter but i have a tough time believing that the starter worked when you took it off and now it doesn't, unless of course its been sitting around for a very long time or is rusted from being wet.

[Mr. White]

I checked around my ignition switch today and found that one of the wires coming from the lock assembly connector had broken off. I connects to and orange wire the I think goes into the interior fuse panel which has something to do with ECCS. anyone had an issue like this?

[Mr. White]

Moso, you were right. It was a ground, the ground to the starter. I had broken off. i had a spare hacked up harness so I cut the messed up end off the one in the car and soldered the good one onto it. Now, the car cranks but wont turn over. like it's still not getting enough power to start the car. the ground I soldered in gets really hot along with the one down by the alternator. did I mess up the soldering job?

[compactfean]

What excactly are you grounding? There should only be 2 grounds. One from intake manifold to chassis, and one from chassis to battery negitive. From what it sounds like something is not right. The starter grounds itself through the bolts and bell housing.

[Mr. White]

there is a black connector that is part of the lower harness. it has one white wire and a ground on both sides of the connection. on the end that comes out of the lower harness, it grounds to the alternator frame. the part I soldered comes out of the relay box on the passenger side under the hood. the connector that comes out of the fuse box has a ground on it as well. I soldered the white wire in because the one that came with the harness didn't have the ground on the plug, which was causing the starter to just click. now, it cranks but the crank is really weak and the wire gets too hot before the car can start.

[compactfean]

Now I know what ground your talking about. If that one is getting hot that means the main ground from the intake manifold to chassis is bad or damaged and the electricity only has that little wire to be able to escape. Id run a new ground there and maybe one from the bell housing to the chassis as well .... Some fat 0 gauge should be enough.

[Mr. White]

I'm not sure I have ground going from my intake manifold to the chassis. Its not on the top and below is all hoses. also, the ground on the alternator frame gets really hot too.

[Mr. White]

Got it! grounded a wire from the manifold to the chassis and it started right up. but now my Boost controller wont come on but it's making this beeping noise. it's a Greddy Profec B spec 2

[compactfean]

What is your boost controller wired to? I bet from the over load you popped a fuse.

[Mr. White]

there's an orange wire that it is tapped into where the center console would be. I think it is the cigarette lighter would be. I checked the fuse and it's not blown. the boost controller just blinks and beeps..