Sr20 bogging

[Msregor]

So I've been dealing with a bogging issue for a while now. I have a blacktop sr20 with JE pistons, BC rods, apexi head gasket, BC valve springs/retainers, BC stage 2 cams, greddy RZ bov (uncirculated), greddy fmic, profec b, apexi exhaust, stock turbo, stock fuel injectors, and walbro 255. Engine work was done prior to me buying the car. Car has been bogging for a while now. Since then i tried changing the coolant temp sensor but made it worse. New o2 sensor. New spark plugs. Rewired mafs. Cleaned/replaced grounds. Cleaned pcv. Everything I did (with the exception of the cts) made it a little better. I was having issues with the battery dying. The battery had officially gone bad. So my friend brings me a battery and the bogging disappeared. For two days the car ran great. Then started in with the bogging again. Tested the alt and it was bad as well. Replaced the alt added a ground and recharged the battery. Car ran the same. Drives ok for a couple minutes then bucks and bogs. Voltage gauge shows below 12. Turbo timer volt gauge jumps from 13.2 - 11.9. Haven't cleaned iacv. Havent checked voltage on tps. Ecu shows code 55. I'm ready to blow the car up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[TunerPharm]

Im currently having a similar problem. In my case im currently ruunning a Apexi AFC on a sr20de with an aftermarket turbo. I recently found a wire that was exposed and could have possibly been grounding out causing the car to bog I believe. Not entirely sure but i'll get back to you when I test drive it later on to see if the bogging has went away.

[Msregor]

Yea, I'm pretty positive it's a wiring issue. Guy told me it wasnt a "hacked" harness but after looking close to the ecu I've found a lot of butt connectors. I look forward to hearing what happens/if that was the issue. Hopefully that solves it for you. Good luck.

[TunerPharm]

Issue didn't go away but I consulted a few friends and they said they believe its a boost leak somewhere because the car only bogs while in vacuum really. So still no success but I will surely let you know when I fix it.

[Msregor]

Figure anything else out? Boost leak? I Installed a new fpr and gauge. New fuel lines. New negative for battery. Moved that to where the spare mounts. Coil packs are good. Spark plugs too. I noticed when the pump primes it shows pressure on the gauge then shuts off and no pressure. My friends car has constant pressure when ignition is on and even when his car is off. Thinking I'll bite the bullet and take it in next week.

[blkvrtswp]

On SR20DET, the fuel pump is supposed to turn on for 5 seconds, then if the ECU does not see CAS rotation, the fuel pump is shut off. That is normal OEM operation.

By spare tire mount, if you mean the threaded bolt receiver, I was told that is not a good ground because it is only spot welded in 4 small places.

[Msregor]

Ok thanks didn't know about that. The spot it was grounded at before was rusted out. Read on the forums that people do fine with it where the spare goes. Would mounting it to the strut tower be ok? My friend seems to believe my problem is that I'm running an automatic trans ecu. Which I don't see causing an issue but what do I know... I've tried pulling codes and all I get is code 55.

[blkvrtswp]

Auto ECU will do nothing bad, usually just a slightly higher idle. With a trunk battery, I have seen many issues with the ground cause similar problems.

Recheck the ground from the engine intake manifold to the battery tray, and try to attach the old negative cable wire to the body metal by the windshield washer filler somewhere. Make sure the multiple small grounds on the top of the intake manifold are tight.

In the trunk, I recommend drilling a hole in the spare tire well, scrape the paint off and use a good bolt, attach the negative battery cable there. You want bright shiny metal, I don't like using pre-existing bolts for main battery grounds, although it can work.

Good luck.

[Msregor]

Thanks. I did like you said and drilled a hole in the spare wheel well. Put my throttle body ground and alternator ground on the right front wheel well. Idled like crap. Then changed the cts. Idled fine, then idled bad again when I turned on the boost controller. Don't know what else it could be. Feel like its a boost leak.

[Msregor]

Took the car to a shop. Turns out it was the cas. Also have a bad lifter.