im nearly done with my swap, all the wiring is done I just need to put on my exhaust and intercooler. I figured itd at least try to run with the maf unplugged and nothing on the tb... I really was hoping to hear it catch and run a little bit.
It cranks fine, cant hear the fuel pump relay tho so Ive got to mess with that... cranked it over for maybe a total of 7 or 8 seconds to see if the oil light would go out... it didnt... so hopefully it just needs to be at 700rpm to get any real oil pressure.
Anyway the strange thing was after I took out my key, the dash lights stayed lit like it was in the 'ignition' position. ...Que?
I promptly unhooked the battery and called it a night.
Did i mess up the wiring that badly?
Modified by Neil at 12:58 AM 12/11/2005
SR wont start (peculiar symptom)
Re: SR wont start (Neil)
ahahaha the fatter of the 2 plugs by the battery wasnt plugged in... im an amazing person.
down to a fuel injector circuit problem, itll run on brakleen so the ignition/timing is fine but the injectors are hot (have 12 volts) ALL THE TIME instead of being ground interrupt controlled via ecu. FPR o-ring had a nice chunk missing out of it too so i found out it was getting gas REAL quick. luckily the ka has the same o-ring.
down to a fuel injector circuit problem, itll run on brakleen so the ignition/timing is fine but the injectors are hot (have 12 volts) ALL THE TIME instead of being ground interrupt controlled via ecu. FPR o-ring had a nice chunk missing out of it too so i found out it was getting gas REAL quick. luckily the ka has the same o-ring.
-
95lstegman
- Posts: 501
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:09 am
- Car: 1989 570SX, 2005 Acura RSX, 1994 Toyota Corolla
Re: SR wont start (Neil)
first off, i would recommend more restraint, and not run the car w/o charge pipes. no exhaust is okay if you don't mind super hot exhaust gas on your brake lines and master cylinder, as well as any wires there. so basically, at least have a downpipe.
i would very much recommend you check the engine's grounding wires as well as the ground wires for the engine and vehicle harnesses. many problems can be caused by weak grounding. there should be a ground at the back of the intake manifold for the injectors' section of the wiring harness, i believe. check that set of grounds (there are 2 or 3 there) and check the grounds from intake manifold to chassis; there should also be a couple other major chassis ground points.
BTW, when i did my swap, i followed heavy throttle's guide. there were absolutely right on building oil pressure (of course they were). crank it for 20 seconds, stop for 5, crank for 20, stop for 5. after the fourth time my oil light went out. then i went back and plugged in the CAS, then came back to the driver's seat and braced myself. i depressed the clutch pedal, and turned the key. to my surprise, it started up, running only 400-500rpm at first, then working its way up to 1700rpm very slowly. it's a '91 engine, and this was summer 2005, so it's not surprising it did this. since then (and after diagnosing a strange idle problem) i haven't had any problems with warm-up cycle.
i would very much recommend you check the engine's grounding wires as well as the ground wires for the engine and vehicle harnesses. many problems can be caused by weak grounding. there should be a ground at the back of the intake manifold for the injectors' section of the wiring harness, i believe. check that set of grounds (there are 2 or 3 there) and check the grounds from intake manifold to chassis; there should also be a couple other major chassis ground points.
BTW, when i did my swap, i followed heavy throttle's guide. there were absolutely right on building oil pressure (of course they were). crank it for 20 seconds, stop for 5, crank for 20, stop for 5. after the fourth time my oil light went out. then i went back and plugged in the CAS, then came back to the driver's seat and braced myself. i depressed the clutch pedal, and turned the key. to my surprise, it started up, running only 400-500rpm at first, then working its way up to 1700rpm very slowly. it's a '91 engine, and this was summer 2005, so it's not surprising it did this. since then (and after diagnosing a strange idle problem) i haven't had any problems with warm-up cycle.
Re: SR wont start (95lstegman)
I appreciate your concern. The car has had a downpipe installed since a couple days before turning the key for the first time.
As far as grounding and other electrical connections, as an electricians apprentice and aircraft mechanic student I understand what it means to have a good circuit. Trust me when I say everything is safe and proper. In my excitement however I made a couple assumptions. One, was that plug near the battery. I remembered plugging it in but the snap-lock was a little buggered & wouldnt let the plugs connect so I left it disconnected and forgot. The other was of the smaller plug aft of the ECU for the dash harness. I had breezed the HT faq and thought it was 100% for the diagnostic tool only. As a matter of fact I had the HT faq printed out in front of me but I failed to acknowledge that this plug is what grounds the ecu and provides the start circuit.
After a couple minutes joining the appropriate wires (since the SR male and KA female aren't compatable), I gave myself a pat on the back and considered today a "landmark" as this is the first time installing a different powerplant in a car and hearing it Run on its own. Yes, I got it to start without the help of brakleen, haha. . How satisfying! even if it was only for maybe 8 or 10 seconds.
During the non-firing cranking process Oil eventually filled up the filter and lines to the turbo and the rest of the motor and I noticed the light on the dash go out. pressure is apparantly extremely healthy as now when I crank without spark the light goes out immediately. With the coilpacks plugged in the motor fires up before it even makes its first full revolution. A happy camper am I.
My B&M is back in and transmission filled with fresh MT90. Now i just need my intercooler hardware to show up from turbohoses, reattach the exhaust and do a good once over. Oh and F&@%ing shovel a path from the garage so I can actually get the car out. I cant wait to take it to the gas station with the hood removed
As far as grounding and other electrical connections, as an electricians apprentice and aircraft mechanic student I understand what it means to have a good circuit. Trust me when I say everything is safe and proper. In my excitement however I made a couple assumptions. One, was that plug near the battery. I remembered plugging it in but the snap-lock was a little buggered & wouldnt let the plugs connect so I left it disconnected and forgot. The other was of the smaller plug aft of the ECU for the dash harness. I had breezed the HT faq and thought it was 100% for the diagnostic tool only. As a matter of fact I had the HT faq printed out in front of me but I failed to acknowledge that this plug is what grounds the ecu and provides the start circuit.
After a couple minutes joining the appropriate wires (since the SR male and KA female aren't compatable), I gave myself a pat on the back and considered today a "landmark" as this is the first time installing a different powerplant in a car and hearing it Run on its own. Yes, I got it to start without the help of brakleen, haha. . How satisfying! even if it was only for maybe 8 or 10 seconds.
During the non-firing cranking process Oil eventually filled up the filter and lines to the turbo and the rest of the motor and I noticed the light on the dash go out. pressure is apparantly extremely healthy as now when I crank without spark the light goes out immediately. With the coilpacks plugged in the motor fires up before it even makes its first full revolution. A happy camper am I.
My B&M is back in and transmission filled with fresh MT90. Now i just need my intercooler hardware to show up from turbohoses, reattach the exhaust and do a good once over. Oh and F&@%ing shovel a path from the garage so I can actually get the car out. I cant wait to take it to the gas station with the hood removed
-
95lstegman
- Posts: 501
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:09 am
- Car: 1989 570SX, 2005 Acura RSX, 1994 Toyota Corolla
Re: SR wont start (Neil)
good job, dude. i can't believe it starts up so quickly. mine takes 4 turns every time. it's constant, so it's okay, but i attribute it taking so long to a low compression motor that has to build vacuum through all the charge pipes.