Sr Wiring

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post

I posted this on NissanCustoms a while back.

I've decided to make a step by step guide on how I wired an s13 redtop into my 93 extended cab hardbody. Make sure you double check you wiring. You are responsible for your own mistakes.

First things you'll need are your trucks wiring diagram (If anyone has it please post a link to it), The wiring diagram for the motor and an ECU pinout.



Translated into English (on Jim wolf's website).



Sorry about the fuzzy pic.

Tools: Soldering Iron Wire Strippers Beer Solder Heat Shrink

Materials: Lengths of 18 Ga wire (assorted colors. You can reuse some parts of your KA harness or use all brand new wire.) Shielded wire (You will need this for your o2 and MAF sensors. There is enough in your KA harness, but you will have to yank the dash to get to it)


ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post

Unlike the 240sx and Silvia, the wiring harness for the truck is not conveniently separated from the chassis harness. You can leave the old harness in there, but if your a fanatic about clean wiring you're going to have to deal with this....


ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post

Remove your passenger seat and you will see this:

Remove the plastic cover to access the KA ecu:

Make sure the battery is disconnected and remove the old ECU:

Pic with the ECU wiring removed. The harness shown goes to the rear of the truck and is not to be modified. Remove the tape to separate the ECU harness from the rear harness and plug it back together.

Remove the bottom of the KA ecu (not the SR. They are not interchangeable).



Affix the bottom of the KA ecu (black) to the SR ecu with adhesive. Using this method it will bolt into the factory location. (Sorry no pics).

ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post



This is the old KA harness. Most of this will go in the trash. I took the time to pull all of the relays that were under the hood into the cab for a cleaner look.

ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post



FRsport.com has an excellent writeup on how to wire a 240, but the wire colors are not the same in the trucks.

The three critical wires on this harness are: Blue/Black Stripe - connects to - Yellow/Red (water temp) Orange - connects to - Black/Yellow (Ignition Start) Black - connects to - Ground

The info on the other wires is in the ECU pinout diagram.

ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post



You will need to extend both of these connections. Make sure you use shielded wire where necessary or your truck will not run properly.

I ran mine with the main wire harness under the windshield to a grommet behind the fuse box. Go from there to the grommet in the front of the driver's side fender.



The tape on the intake piping is temporary so don't laugh to hard.

ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post



This is where it gets tricky. If you had a 240 there would be three plugs near the battery that you would tap into. It's a little harder with our trucks. Bear in mind that I pulled all of my relays into the cab.

Black/Pink stripe - connects to - White/Red stripe (fuel pump relay)Red/Black stripe - connects to - Blue/Red stripe (ECU relay)Black/White stripe - connects to - Black/White stripe (ECU power)Black/Yellow stripe- connects to - +12V switched (IACS power)Brown - connects to - +12V switched (O2 sensor power)Black/RedBlue/Red - connects to - +12V switched (Main ignition power)

Red - connects to - +12V constant white (ECU backup power)

I used Black/White for my 12V switched.

ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post



The yellow with blue is the oil pressure switch. Hook it up to the yellow wire coming off of the oil pressure switch on the SR20.



NOTE: I ended up not using the SR alternator. I change the pulley on my old truck alternator and changed the mounts somewhat.

ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post

All you have left is the Starter power, Main power, and the alternator. Make sure that you ground all loose blacks wires and that's it! My truck had a cable speedo, no tach, and no AC so if you want those options you will still have a few wires to hook up.

Transmission wires:

Green/White,Green/Blue = Reverse (I have no reverse light so I did not hook this up.)

Green/Orange,Black = Neutral safety

Green,Green = Speed sense

If you want to get rid of your clutch inhibit and have a JDM style setup where the truck only starts in neutral:

Cut the Light Green on the starter relay switch.(Yours will be attached to the passenger side of the engine compartment.)



Splice in the Green/Orange from the transmission. Be sure the corresponding ground wire is also hooked up. Double and triple check the operation of this switch before you put your truck on the road.

ibreakstuff
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:36 pm

Post



This is the finished product. I relocated the battery to the bed so there is a small fuse box near the firewall on the passenger side.

User avatar
Big-Bird
Posts: 684
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 4:41 pm
Car: 2000 Xterra on 'Roids & 2004 Quest SL

Post

Thanks for posting the details Steve.

User avatar
NM50
Posts: 211
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:08 pm
Car: 94 D21,98 03 hummer H2,66 311 CA18ET ROADSTER,94GEO METRO pimp mobile

Post

Very cool and very detailed how to.Good job.

jamlanta
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:32 pm

Post

any chance on getting these pics back up?


Return to “Nissan Trucks Forum”