SR turbo wastegate ratings?

[lexcrob]

I searched extensively on finding out the stock wastegate psi for blacktop/redtop/notchtop wastegate ratings.


Anyways i found out that there is a boost control solenoid that is normally not with motorsets. Also that most people have no idea that it had one and just run it vacuum line to charge pipe.

Reguardless id like to find out their ratings so i dont have to get an aftermarket waste.<<using the factory boost solenoid is not an option.


EXAMPLE: blacktop s13-- t25--7psi--?
redtop s13--t25--11psi--?
notchback s14--t28--11psi--?
(((i realize they made many diff varients of red top black top s13 s14 dont care maybe turbos are stamped with #???))))


I need to know for my application KA-T so i can find out if ill have to buy a 6psi aftermarket internal waste. Yes im tryin to run a LOW boost set up on a ka24. Thanks

[lexcrob]

In other words i dont want to hook up my FMU and do a pull spike 12 psi and hurt my engine because i dont have options for fuel at this point above 7psi.

[Hijacker]

It's true that most motorsets don't come with the factory boost solenoid. However, from my understanding, the factory system doesn't allow for any kind of alteration to the vac line feeding the wastegate. The solenoid is for keeping spikes down as far as I know. There is an adjustable knob on the mounting plate with the boost solenoid, however it's for the IAV.

I took a quick look at my JDM 180 FSM, and it states that the wastegate should actuate between 8-9 psi.

[PyR0NiAk]

It seems most swaps end up at 7psi... It would be my guess that the factory wastegate springs are typically a little worn out, so they open prematurely giving people 7psi instead of 8 or 9.
I've actually read rumors that installing the boost solenoid puts people at 12psi.

[lexcrob]

Thats pretty much what i read that helps alot thanks for feedback. Im going to runed an fmu and want to make shur it would be a "safe boost lvl. Im starting to think that the factory waste might be a poor decision hearing about all the boost spikes...... Anyone had one spike above 10 psi? Anyone experience when using fmu? I i let off can it hurt motor or is no big deal?

I had an rb20det and boost would come on so fast it would be impossible to get out of it (throttle) if it spiked. In other words if it hit 15 psi i wouldnt even notice even if i was looking at the gauge. Maybe 18 or so i guess thats where a wideband would be a smart choice. I fig. i could get away running a narrowband at least.

[PyR0NiAk]

I wouldn't run a narrowband on a boosted car... I'd always stick with a wideband. Especially when boosting a motor that wasn't intended for boost.

[lexcrob]

Yea didnt think about it that way NICEPOINT hehehe...

I've had some experience with an lc-1 borrowed from a buddy but sadly had nothing but problems...

I didnt ground it to the engine block...and i was using butt connects so probly my own fault. I think ive decided to go with AEM's gauge set up and just keep my eyes on it for initial pulls.

I hope it goes a little better this time around i had a 91 integra that i chipped and ran turbo edit. 2 step worked like a champ and it ran ok with a simple base map, but the wideband was all over the place at WOT. I datalogged with its software of course and it looked like a bunch of spikes. FALSE readings for shur i even went back checked wiring jumped on their forum called them.......anyways SUCK experience all together!!!


Any recommendations as far as brands? PLX???? I really need like a plug it in done not free air calibrate super ungodly good grounds ........thanks for the feedback again -cheers-

[PyR0NiAk]

AEM is the most widely used out there. enjukuracing.com has the best price you'll find on it as well.

[lexcrob]

well while im away from ka-t aka the dark side/ Options for small low boost application turbo choices oem units.

this is all i got * means it will work my goal is well the most power i can make on an fmu set up so limited to 8 psi to be safe side " if there is one.

sr20det-t25,t28*
16g is a NO GO i guess
srt4 NO GO
rb20det-t25 HYBrid *
rb25det-t25 HYBrid*

[PyR0NiAk]

lex, I recommend you check out the KA-T section and drop in on a thread titled "building a ka-t what motor will he choost next?" created by a user named 93 Chuki FB...

Here are some highlights from just the first page.

You're pretty much wrong about everything...lol. Sorry but I don't sugar coat things to well. Lets start by forgetting everything you think you know or someone else told you. That way we have a fresh slate

My suggestion would be to gather all of the parts you'll need to install the turbo and have in running in 1 weekend. Once you have all the parts, install them on the motor that's already in the car and running well. I say this because many things can change during a swap. Trust me, something always changes or gets broke, be it vacuum or whatever. You have a strong running motor now and it has no known issues, that's where you want to start. If you want to build a spare motor to have just in case that's a good idea.

Parts you're going to need in order to get your car running under boost:1, eBay bottom mount manifold2, T25 from the SR3, elbow piece that connects the turbo to the downpipe - also found on ebay4, oil line kit for the T255, oil return bung will need to welded to your oil pan, use a spare pan6, FMIC kit with piping7, FMU 6:1 - this will handle all of your fuel needs - http://www.summitracing.com8, 255lph fuel pump - http://www.summitracing.com 9, Bosch bypass valve - http://www.summitracing.com10, boost gauge11, retard the timing at the dizzy 2 degree's

That's it...

The wastegate controls how much exhaust energy builds up inside the manifold. Each wastegate, be it internal or external, has a spring or diaphragm inside that automatically opens when it see's a certain amount of boost pressure. When the turbo reaches whatever predetermined amount of boost, in your case 7-8 psi, the wastegate opens and vents exhaust energy. This allows the turbo to maintain one set boost pressure. Without a wastegate the turbo would just keep building boost. The wastegate see's boost via a vacuum line, when it see's 7-8 psi from the line it opens.

The boost controller, be it electric or manual, goes between the vacuum source and the wastegate. The controller keeps the wastegate from opening by "hiding" the boost pressure. It's just a matter of stopping the wastegate from opening until the turbo has reached whatever PSI you're wanting to run. In your case you don't want to run more then the stock setting on the T25 which is 7-8 psi. You don't want to run more then 7-8 psi unless you use a larger turbo and invest in better fuel and ignition management.

In short, the wastegate controls exhaust energy in the manifold and the controller can adjust when the wastegate opens to increase the amount of exhaust energy that passes through the turbo. More exhaust going through the turbo means the turbine wheel win spin faster increasing the boost pressure output from the compressor section of the turbo. Sounds complicated...it isn't.

The list I gave you lets you keep the stock MAF and injectors. The FMU will increase fuel pressure 6 psi for every 1 psi of boost pressure it see's. This enables the stock injectors to flow enough fuel to support the added boost pressure. BUT, you should never run more then 8 psi because the fuel pressure at the injectors is just to high if you run more. However, the FMU is a good match for the T25 because they both have the same limits. The FMU is plug and play so no tuning is required, it's also only $125 new. Again, use http://www.summitracing.com to source one.

The first list are things I consider mandatory. Here are a few things you should invest in as you save cash.

1, wideband O2 meter2, oil pressure gauge3, water temp gauge4, overboost kill switch - there's a guide in the "info sticky"5, fuel pressure gauge

Ok...questions? Don't be afraid to ask anything, everyone is a noob at some point...lol. I've made my share of really stupid mistakes

WD

The SR T25 is already to small for the KA. I understand you're on a budget, but that doesn't mean you should just do any damn thing just because it's cheap. You have to do some things the right way or you WILL be making a "Blew up my KA" thread shortly after your build thread is finished. I've been Moderating this forum since 01 and have seen more then my share of projects go bad because someone rushed or cut 1 to many corners in the name of saving a few bucks.

Can you or a friend weld? Even if you can weld just a little bit, I can show you how to make an ultra cheap but still functional downpipe. That would allow you to run any manifold and turbo combo you wanted, the right size of course. Basically you'd just need to have a flange welded to about 6-7 inches of exhaust pipe. One for each end of the flex pipe. You can get flex pipe from Mcmaster Car, don't worry, I'll find the correct flanges and flex pipe for you. I've looked into this about 5000 times now because I also have a zero $$$ budget. But I do have the experience and I can weld.

Try not to buy anything until you ask us...lol. We're here to help...I've been there and done that a few times now. Trust me...I've made all the mistakes, be it putting the dizzy 180 out or simply having it a tooth off down to experimenting with electric pumps for oil return so we could avoid drilling the pan.

WD

There is also some discussion in that thread about the RB series T25s being smaller than the SR T25... WD, also goes on to list a perfect setup for a SR T25 with FMU.

[PyR0NiAk]

Found the link: post5489139.html#p5489139

[lexcrob]

thank you for the link -need that reassurance great thread exactly what my plan is !

Figured it keep it goin over here just to get a second opinion im kinda burnin it up over on ka-t. I search trust me but i normally find millions of posts that say SEARCH and/or a bunch of this guys runnin it and it works ???

I just sourced a t28 from a notch back so that should be prestine for what i want. Right now im at odds with choosing the right manifold and FMU.
Vortech/BEGI???
found a bottom mount stainless that jgy makes 199$ .....didnt know that made one looks to be better than ebay equiv.
then there is the a few cast ebay ones that look like they may work( ive seen a few mods done to ebay ones to make em werk) :cutting apart runners widening holes for expansion to prevent cracking..

[PyR0NiAk]

Most cast manifolds won't cause problems, given they have good good fitment. I definitely recommend you stick to the KA-T section when you're asking about what manis and things of that nature to stick with. You'll get more input from guys that actually run KA-Ts, and have probably been in your shoes at least once.

[lexcrob]

Your link is the most informative post ive ever read thank you so much.

I dont know how you guys broke the skyline parts information code because its not on the internet but yea facts.

--wiring schematic for a rb20det-- hint there is 4 hint they are all different! --

^makes it really fun wiring into a 95 obd2 equipt s14

Anyways i have one last question jdm related that has boggled my mind. NO ONE KNOWS THIS QUESTION maybe not even japan.....



anyways- how do you identify a type s H22A 220hp- without knowing the valve-cover color or transmission

_without cc'ing the cumbustion chambers etc. or course

[lexcrob]

if anyone can answer this they win its honda i know i know

[PyR0NiAk]

LOL... NICO's such an awesome forum, guys come here to ask Honda questions. I'm at work, but if I get bored later, I'll ask my friend from back home. He's a honda junkie.

[lexcrob]

i knew it no one knows...... hondatech, prelude online etc.. all dont know either!

gotta love shady jdm stuff i bet there was never even a 220hp h22a!

[PyR0NiAk]

I honestly forgot about this. Let me see if Bobby is on facebook.

[PyR0NiAk]

So you want a way to identify it without knowing valve cover color, what transmission is attached, and not knowing what it was pulled from?

[PyR0NiAk]

I'm sure the intake and exhaust manifolds are no different, from any other version, so that leaves nothing but block numbers...

[PyR0NiAk]

If they come with different cams, you could pull the valve cover....

[lexcrob]

^ that sounds like a good way- measure max lift! easy to now where to find that spec.>>> i researched for a second

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1671032
^um check out that link nvm ill just stay with my original thought B series or go home
^kinda like tryin to find RB20DET information....

[lexcrob]

Well since im havin no luck in the KA-T section -

"Whats a good place to get a T28 from an S15?" Id really like to get a reman one but no luck finding a decent price.

[PyR0NiAk]

Enjukuracing.com frsport.com 240sxmotoring.com phase2motortrend.com If none of those are cheap enough for you, try our engine/drivetrain classifieds section.

[lexcrob]

ISIS turbo ? thats bout my price range 499$ tops

I really like the idea of running a holset but jeez fab. ....!!! i been trying to find someone runnin one with little fab work but no luck.

A) Whats your opinion t3/t04e i bought for 90$ look legit! The guy said it work fine for a season on his drag VW beetle no signs of seals blown looks like a normal used turbo shaft play feels same as my rb20 one had which ran great for a year that i know.
B) sell the ebay one for?? 100$ buy the ISIS one on enjuku?
C) get a holset hx35 and learn to fab. make some calls to buddies who suck at welding but can teach LOL


-If i do run the ebay one what you think the odds are of it destroying my motor "explode" . Is there alway warning signs like smoking first then grenade?

-im putting my new motor in this week gonna pre tap the pan run it for a few weeks to check for bugs/ research more then BOOST!

[PyR0NiAk]

T3/T04e is very common on KA-Ts. The ISIS one is pretty popular in the SR community, but Garrett turbos tend to be the most popular.

[lexcrob]

its a t3/t04e from ----CXRACING M12 stamped on it its a ford unit knock off

[PyR0NiAk]

Yep cxracing is ebay. I would not run one of their turbos myself.

[lexcrob]

Well i priced a few t28's then read up on chances of shavings of blown motor blowing engine... i guess its not as likely as i thought.

Worst scenario would be starts smokin/drive home/ yank off the junk ebay / put on replacement unit Garrett<

^but until then i guess ill just run it and if it lasts long enough for me to save for a 1200$ unit then GOOD!


:this is my first turbo bolt on application theres a chance ill mess up sumthin and pop my motor anyways-(rather it be a 90 turbo gettin metal all in it etc.)

wish me luck thanks for all the input for shur you and WD are the sh&t thanks for sharing!!!