Ever since I completed the sr swap I had noticed that shifting to 2nd gear is kinda rough and sometimes i feel a hard grind. But now is more noticeable than ever.. I do have hard time shifting into first gear... sometimes I even have to pump the clutch several times and keep on trying and if it still doesnt goes in i try shifting into second gear and start from 2nd... other times when i do get the car moving from 1st it wont go into 2nd will feel the grind again.. is weird.. i cant really tell when it will happen sometimes is fine.. and there is no problem with 3rd-5ft.. I remember before when i instaled the obx shoft shifter it will never go into reverse and once in when i reverse it will pop out... why is that??
do i need a new transmission? or my act clutch is too harsh on the transmission.. i think i have the stage 2 or 3 dont remember but it is the tight and short stepping distance one... where should i start?? i did use the search.. but do MT has a TPS harness connector?? could that be??
Sr transmission came bad??? M/T shifting problem...
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deathBooster
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 6:03 am
- Car: 240sx under construction
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JesusLikesKFC
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 9:16 pm
- Car: 91 240sx, geo prizm
Re: Sr transmission came bad??? M/T shifting problem... (deathBooster)
bled everything? adjusted pedal? no leaks? instal properly? double check all these. problem in no way can be tps. good luck finding the bisnatch
I had the exact problems and I replaced/bypassed the stock rubber hose with a stainless steel one from SPL parts. I alos replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder, whicch all in all costs about $65 to do including all parts and fluid and about 2-3 hours of your time depending on skill and available tools.
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Luke
It sounds like you need to bleed clutch hydraulics. At what point does the clutch engage in the pedal travel? Close to the floor? If so, the clutch might not be dis-engaging enough.
Look at your clutch pedal, there is a master cylinder rod that you can screw in and out to adjust the pedal free play. FSM says you want next to none, like 1-4mm i think. If you have a lot of free play and the clutch catches really low, you will need to adjust this. Loosen the locknut on this rod, and rotate it clockwise until you have just a tiny bit of free play. It will cause the clutch to engage much higher in the pedal travel and will allow the clutch to dis-engage much better. Careful not to over do it, or the clutch WON'T engage properly and it'll start to slip.
Having all air out of the system is also very important, so before you start adjusting, make sure you try bleeding it first with a buddy. And if you haven't removed the damper loop already, doing this will make bleeding 100 times easier!!
http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47/
Good luck!
Look at your clutch pedal, there is a master cylinder rod that you can screw in and out to adjust the pedal free play. FSM says you want next to none, like 1-4mm i think. If you have a lot of free play and the clutch catches really low, you will need to adjust this. Loosen the locknut on this rod, and rotate it clockwise until you have just a tiny bit of free play. It will cause the clutch to engage much higher in the pedal travel and will allow the clutch to dis-engage much better. Careful not to over do it, or the clutch WON'T engage properly and it'll start to slip.
Having all air out of the system is also very important, so before you start adjusting, make sure you try bleeding it first with a buddy. And if you haven't removed the damper loop already, doing this will make bleeding 100 times easier!!
http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47/
Good luck!