SR timing issue? Please consult!

[boardoxmage]

Hey there, I know this isn't going to be a severely detailed post. But I'm having some issues with my SR.

It seems there is a lot of slack with the timing chain, and could possible be skipping pegs.

It idles really rough around ~1000-3000 rpm but semi clears up around ~5000 rpm.

I'm not sure how to diagnose this problem. I've tried searching, duffman's thread is really helpful, but I'm not sure what to look for to begin to fix this problem.

I've never dealt with a timing chain before.

Please help me out, I would really love to get my car on the road for the first time.
Modified by boardoxmage at 9:23 AM 12/14/2007

[duffman1278]

I would love to get mine on the road as well lol, but have you checked the chain tensioner?? Can you get pics also? that would probably help

[boardoxmage]

Well, the timing checked out fine. But I'm still having a problem with a rough idle.

I also found out that my vacuum lines are not hooked up correctly.

I ran the vac line from the throttle body to the BOV and T'ed it off to the wastegate.

Which I now know is the problem.

So tomorrow I'm going to Home Depot to buy a brass nipple to put into my hot pipe then run a vac line fron the hot pipe to the wastegate.

Do you think this will help the rough idle?

[idahotuner]

it will jsut help more with boost response. not nessicarliy rough idle

[duffman1278]

lol Have you checked your IACV?

[boardoxmage]

Yeah, I cleaned the IACV with some throttle body cleaner, it was some really concentrated cleaner.

I'm not sure if the IACV is bad though.

I'm also thinking that I'm getting too much air, possible throttle body gasket or intake manifold gasket?

The ECU is throwing a code about ingnition, which I thought my igniter clip was bad, but used a buddies clip and still the same problem.

It idles fine for about 10 seconds (around 900-1000 rpm) but then dies afterwards. I can keep it up by keeping my foot on the gas, but sounds like theres alot of misfire.

[duffman1278]

Did you check your coilpacks? What about the CAS? because iirc the CAS sends the signal to which injector should spray to which cyclinder. Check if their both properly working refer to the FSM

[idahotuner]

sounds lieka bad boost leak, check every pipe to make sure there are no leaks, casue it is probly thinking it is getting more air then it is. becasue air is leaking off soem where

[boardoxmage]

I'm also thinking it's a boost leak. I've checked all of the couplings on the intercooler piping and everything is snug. I'm not sure where else air could be leaking from...intake? throttle body? intake manifold?

[duffman1278]

You should make a leak tester from things at home depot, theres tutorials online. But check the intake side and make sure your rubber couplings are in there good and tight

[boardoxmage]

There is no air leaks or vac leaks.

My CAS was off. Took the valve cover off and re-adjusted it and now it idles at a lovely 1200 rpm.

No more dying problems!

My timing is still off though. It's at 27 degrees so tomorrow i'm going to set timing to 15 degrees.

Then to go out for a test drive!

wish me luck.

[idahotuner]

sweet i am gladd you figured it out.

[duffman1278]

I wonder how much I idle at, gotta switch out my cluster

[idahotuner]

dude yo uare stil la long ways away. maybe by the end of tomrrow i will have caught you

[boardoxmage]

FECK.

Went for a test drive today. It was looking so promising, but there is still a misfire.

Maybe the timing at 27 degrees is haunting me. My buddy says the timing is at 27 degrees because it has a highish idle (1200 rpm) and if it came down a bit it would be 15 degrees.

I'm having a hard time believing that and I'm sure this is causing the misfire.

I'm so clueless on what to do to fix this problem.

[idahotuner]

CAS is off. put it at 15 degree's and it will be dead on. this is stock setting. there is a couple ways to check it. i perfere the valve cover off. casue thne you can look at it when it is installed. but if you are at top dead center. you should be able to pull it out and line the dot up o nthe shaft with the second dot to the right one the spindle part, and when you slide it back in make sure you do it carefully, you will feel it turn a little bit, but it should be dead o nthen. when it turns it should line up with the 1st dot on the left. this is 15 degree. and factory settying. here a link to my build i gota section on it. just scroll dow nthe page a little bit.

zer...age=4

[duffman1278]

Yea valve cover off, and once you do that check it with a timing gun.

[idahotuner]

i dont havea timing gun but i will deal wit hthat wen i get there. but i am sure my timing is DEAD ON factory settings

[duffman1278]

Yea, but its always really good to hook up the gun because alot of times the gear is in but the acutal camshaft moves a small amount, thats why it has the slides on the CAS so you can turn it just a bit.

[boardoxmage]

Alright, I'll work on the timing some more today then, thanks. Idaho, your thread really helps me out, too!

My friend also adjusted the idle control using the IACV, do you think this could also cause some problems?

[idahotuner]

i havent messed around wtit hthat, so i am yet to learn about the IACV

[duffman1278]

Check the idle screw also, dunno if I mentioned that

[idahotuner]

have you figured anything out yet.

[boardoxmage]

I think I've figured most of the problems out.

My car is running pretty good. I'm driving it now at least, and it's fun as ****!

We did some adjustments to the CAS and got it running well.

I have more questions though ><

I'm having trouble starting the engine cold. I have to let the fuel pump prime and give it gas. The once I try to crank the motor it won't turn over for about 3 times trying. But it finally turns over but the belts squeal but then it begins to idle fine. I'm not sure whats causing it.

Another thing, When I first begin to drive the car (cold) it bucks horribly like the clutch wont disengage. And when I begin crusing and get into higher RPMs (3500-4000) it begins hesitating again. I do have a brand new clutch/flywheel so it might be because it's not broken in?

[idahotuner]

weird. have you tried letting the car reach Operating temp before driving, and wit hthe clutch the break in period iirc i s 300miles and not going ov 3000 rpms in theo 300 miles

but maybe it is air i n your clutch line, did you bleed it out.

[idahotuner]

oh yea. and you might need to check the cold weather cranking abilities of your battery

[boardoxmage]

Yah, clutch is fully bled.

I'm thinking the main culprit is the ~300 mile break in period for the clutch.

My battery is a Westco mini battery, states it has 475 cold cranking amps.

I guess I'll just have to take it easy for a little bit and wait out the break in period.

The thing that is weird is that the car drives about perfect when it gets optimal temp. But when it's cold it's almost non-drivable.

[idahotuner]

yea that is casue when it is coldeverything slows down and doesnt work as well.

but just make sure yur car is warmed up completely before you dive it any where. it might be something also with the air being densere casue it is cold and so you are getting more air and that is why i bucks when you go over a certain rpm casue the engine is tryng to make up for the air being denser, so i t could be soemhtign in the tuning

[boardoxmage]

The car has never been tuned or chipped. Stock ECU.

I'm going to trade coilpacks + ignitor with a friend of mine, just to see how my car drives.

I also backed out the idle control screw (it was all the way down). This could have been blocking air a little which could be chocking the engine. >.<

I'll see how it starts tomorrow morning when it's cold.

[idahotuner]

well let us knwo what happens