sr swap won't start....need help.

[siceng]

Hello,

I have done plenty of Honda Swap and this is my first Nissan swap. I'm having problems starting the car.

Here is the scenerio. Doing a S13 swap into a 95 240sx.The problem I having is I could get spark on coil #2 but not on any other cylinder. I check for voltage on all the coil packs and I have voltage and ground is good. The thing that puzzle me is that I could get spark on coil #2 but not on any other. The motor cranks fine. At first I thought it was the ignitor chip but I sent it out and got a new one still the same problem. To check the coil pack I took one coil and move it around to each of the plugs and the only sparks I would get on the same coil is on #2. Please help me....... I've working on this for over a month now and can't seem to get it to start.

[MojoMan]

Sounds like the wrong computer. What series computer are you running? There is a simple fix to this but it requires a computer.

[siceng]

I don't know what series computer I am running but I go check it out tonight. I bought the computer and had my wiring done by Enjuku Racing. I think they gave me the right computer. I called them plenty of times and they can't seem to help me.

[siceng]

I found out that my ecu is a J4 180sx Type X 5 speed. Will this ecu work with a redtop s13???? I sent the my harness that came with my redtop to Enjuku Racing and they did my wiring and also bought the ECU from them. I would think they would match my ecu with the harness I sent them. Is this safe to assume?? MojoMan you said there is a simple fix, what can I do to fix it. Please let me know if this setup will work or should I just send back my ecu and get a new one? Another question is all the pinouts of the ecu the same on all the different ecu? Please help me......

Thanks

[AllTurBo]

yeah that's not the right ECU. Easiest fix would be a new ECU, but there might be a way to rewire the pins. I remeber someone saying that Heavy Throttle might know how to rewire it, so you might want to give them a call. You can also get an ECU from them if it turns out you can't rewire it

[siceng]

I did have the wrong ECU. Put in the new ECU and got all the sparks. Now the car won't start. It cranks and almost caught on then one of my 100A fusible link blew on me. Guess will have to figure that out. If anybody knows what might cause this please reply.

Thanks

[AllTurBo]

Sound like you might have a wire crossed somewhere. how long did it crank before the fuse blew? check the wires by you starter and esp. your alternator, the 100A fuse blowing makes me think the problem is somewhere around there. Also make sure everthing is grounded right, and that there are no (+)positive wires coming in contact with the frame that could cause a short.

how do you know you have sparks to all 4 cyl? was it cranking ok while you were testing the spark and then all of a sudden blew when it was about to turn over? if that's the case then check the alternator wiring.

[siceng]

Here is the latest update on my problem.

What will cause the fusible link 100a to blow all the time? I am doing a sr20 swap into my 95 240. What happeded was my brother blew the fusilble link by switching the + and - on the battery. I replaced it and The wierd part is that I can crank the motor and the fusible link won't blow up until when the motor is about to turn over then it blows. I know that there is a constant short to ground. At first I thought it would be the starter or the alternator wire but I totally isolated the short to chassis harness. I can't seem to figure it out after 3 weekends on it. If anybody has any suggestion please, please, please..... let me know.

Thanks,

[MojoMan]

Hey siceng check the alternator power wire with the orange rubber protector on it. Make sure the power wire has a plastic insulator between the wire and the alternator or it will short out. the 100a fuse is a fast burning fuse which is there to protect all of your power accys and brake lights etc. Put a volt meter on the batt. If the batt is charged up enough but you havent found the short the car will still start up without the fuse. the alternator will not charge though as there is no complete cercuit. If you are blowing a 100a fuse it could only be a few things. And it definitly has to be a main power wire such as your alternator. Something is definitly grounding out. Your just going to have to look real close. fortunatly the fuses run less than 3 buck at most dealers. What ignition are you running. Is your timing off? Have you checked each plug wire and coil for juice? Its always something simple. Oh also if he crossed the batt wires he might have melted wires together. Its just an Idea.

[siceng]

Update on my project. I did find out what was blowing out the fusible link. It was the plastic piece on the alternator power. The plastic piece was broken on one side and the other side looked fine so I just over looked it. A lot more headache though. Playing with the CAS I got the car to sputter for a split second and then died off. I can't seem to figure out what the problem is. I did a compression test and all cylinder was around 150 psi. Is that to low. Also I see oil on my spark plugs. I have oil leaking from my head gasket and the list goes on...... If anybody has any suggestions on my problems please...please let me know.

[siceng]

Am I the only one in the Milwaukee, WI area that are trying to do this swap. If you know somebody out here or there are people here that did this swap please let me know. I am willing to pay somebody to look at this problem for me.

[ItzGenX]

Try unplugging the mafs, then start it. Also, are your fuel lines on right? Mine didn't start when I finished my swap because they were on backwards. After that it didnt run too well or idle well, I unplugged the mafs and away it went. The maf I had didnt change voltage, stayed at .88v. My new mafs now is working, just car starts, idles, then dies instantly with the mafs on. Also I can turn mine on with the mafs plugged in while holding the gas down. I can rev it past 2500! YAY, but then it will slowly bog its way down (while holding gas) to zero rpm and die. I am still trying to figure out the problem. A good idea to start with is to pop your rocker cover and line your motor to TDC. Are the punch marks on the cam gears in position as the FSM says they are supposed to be? If they are, that rules out one problem. Basically, a motor needs compression, fuel, and spark (at right times). Just go through the list and guess what it can be and check it. Just remember, sensors do act funny and cause the motor to act stupid.