Having problems with my sr running rich. No mods besides manifolds, fmic, exhaust, walbro fuel pump. Few other bolt ons. Wideband sits at 10.0 at idle. Had it out for its first run the other day and the black smoke coming from the exhaust was insane.

Replaced maf, coolant temp sendor, all new injector o-rings, all new coil packs and harness, igniter, had my harness wired, thst was f*** and ended up buying a brand new engine harness, pretty much everything I can think off is new. No boost leaks I could find. Can't check for codes. My check engine light doesn't flash. It flicks on for a second sometimes when I start it but that's about it.

It idles high at 3k with the iacv screwed all the way in. I just noticed soon as I turn my key the speedo goes up to 20k and idle up to 1000rpm before its started. I had the cluster out when I put a new heater core in and replaced all the lights. I had the needles off so I might of put them on wrong.

I've been looking for months for somewhere to take the car or someone to look at it. Closest shop is a 10hr drive. Would I need a tune for the walbro fuel pump? I read somewhere today buddie got a tune n it started running good.

I just bought a whole new turbo setup to go on, gtx2687, 750cc injectors, z32 maf, etc. but I don't want to tune it for the fuel pump then then around NAND tune it when I install the turbo again.

What's the proper way to do a boost leak test? I've read a few diff ways to do it. Some say you should block off the PVC and some say to block it at the cold pipe. I had it running at 10lbs with the cold pipe hooked up and couldn't find any leaks.

I made a simple boost leak tester by finding a PVC cap at Home Depot that was the same size as the MAF.
Then I drilled a hole, and screwed in a barbed fitting. Then hooked that up to a vacuum line, and plugged the end of it with a tire valve stem I found at O'reilly's.
Pumped that up with a bicycle pump and sprayed everything with soapy water.

What's your intake setup look like?

I doubt you'll need a tune just for having a high flowing pump.

Is your oxygen sensor connected?
Is your oxygen sensor functioning if it is connected?
Is your ecu stock and not chipped? Should check and make sure.
The Walbro fuel pump has a tendency of over-running some fuel pressure regulators that have weak diaphrams to start with. If you have no vacuum leaks, then you may want to check these areas. Good luck and I hope you sort this soon.

You won't need a tune just for a fuel pump, at most it will cause you to run a tad rich,a full point at most.

Need to figure out exactly what the idle speed is and why if its so high. If the IACV is screwed all the way in an it's idling high, you have a bad vacuum leak somewhere for sure.

Also, was the TPS messed with?

Yea I have the same boost leak tester, only with a compressor quick connect. I couldn't find any leaks. I didn't check with soapy water this time. I did a while ago tho. How could you do it with a bike pump? Is it suppose to hold pressure? Once my system fills up I can hear leaks to fix them, but the compressor just keeps pumping the air too it. Am I suppose to be blocking anything off? I've been told a few diff ways to do it, but not sure what's the right way. Some said block it off at the cold pipe, then I heard hold the throttle wide open and plug off the pcv. Then buddy from enjuku said the other day to just hook up the PVC cap to the intake and let er go.

My intake is an Isis alum pipe coming off the turbo, the maf and Isis air intake.

I only have the Wideband o2 sensor hooked up to the down pipe. I don't have the oem sensor hooked up. A guy from enjuku said this could be my problem, I emailed enthalpy and they said it wouldn't effect it. I'm away working, but I'm getting someome from home to snap a pic of the ecu insides. Enthalpy wants to have a look.

With the tps, what do you mean mess with it? I changed its position, the idle will change for a few seconds when I move it, then seems like it goes back to where it was.

Not sure why Enthalpy would say the O2 sensor doesn't need to be hooked up, it does. Does the ecu read from the wideband? I'm not that familiar with the Enthalpy ecu but I didn't think they used a wideband input, only the factory narrow band. Without the O2 the ecu won't be able to function in closed loop mode. Which will cause exactly the symptoms you're having.

The TPS needs to be set correctly or the ecu won't know what tables to reference when comparing throttle position to MAF and timing.

Here's a link that describes why the TPS needs to be set and the instructions on how to do so.

Hope this helps.

Yea first thing I do when I go on days off is hook up the stock o2 sensor. No the ecu doesn't read from the Wideband. I don't even have a enthalpy right now, I just emailed them to see if I needed a tune.

How do set the tps exactly where I need it

Wdracing the o2 isn't listened to by the ecu on early nissans during idle or wot fyi.

KYZAAC wrote:Yea first thing I do when I go on days off is hook up the stock o2 sensor. No the ecu doesn't read from the Wideband. I don't even have a enthalpy right now, I just emailed them to see if I needed a tune.

How do set the tps exactly where I need it

There is a section for adjustment in the link I gave you.

compactfean wrote:Wdracing the o2 isn't listened to by the ecu on early nissans during idle or wot fyi.

Really? I knew WOT, but not at idle. You still need it for cruise though, so I'd have it hooked up.

Yeah I've tried tuning for idle to listen to the o2, and it never does. The only thing that works is adjusting the idle parameters and/ or adjusting fuel in the fuel maps that are designated for different temp ranges. My wideband has programmable outputs and I've thrown every signal at it known to man and it simply ignores the o2. I think this is partly why nissan equipped the ka engine in the us With air injection is because Nissan is just happy idling at anywhere from 10.5 to like 12.5. Any leaner (on my sr anyways) it idles unhappy. Lol

And I agree. It would be a waste of money to not run an 02 but because you have the e6 ecu (which is voltage based unlike the 62 red top ecu) you can just run your wideband output to your ecu ( the narrowband simulation wire) and new just fine.

Thanks for the info man! By the sounds of it i Should be Somewhat ok. I'm going to take it for another when I go on days off. I don't want to do any damage to it. What range should the Wideband read when just driving normal? And while in boost? Just so I can keep an eye on it.
Ill to add thst video I was talking about on YouTube and post the link.

Are you saying instead of installing the oem o2, just run the narrowband simulation to the ecu? Where does thst even go?

Just got another email from enjuku, after telling me my origin body kit was available and ready to ship 2 weeks ago, I sent the $1500, they email me today saying the kit has no rear bumper. Same thing happened with kouki tails lights after sending the money a week earlier. What a piss off. Can't catch a break with this car.

I just posted a few vids from my phone on YouTube. Not sure if they'll be much help. After watching the videos it actually looks like its running half decent. Once fully warm it runs the same, only Wideband sits at 10.0

YouTube vids
Vid 1
http://youtu.be/e3xgCqxPIO0

Vid 2
http://youtu.be/QJ6WlT-kyrA

Vid 3
http://youtu.be/fNC1b5wGZw4

Vid 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arJ240Wfchk

Other than your issue starting the car everything seems fine. You may have a small boost leak, fuel Pressure may be too high, or start signal fuse may be blown giving you that initial starting issue. Idle actually sounds pretty dang high. Check the screw on the throttle body, check tps voltage WHILE IT'S RUNNING, and also check your ignition timing. All of those can cause high idle. And again, the auto ecu may play a small role in your high idle issue but I don't think it would cause that big of a problem. (And when you get your ecu chipped, they can probly help with that)

As the car gets warmer the gauge starts reading 10.0 and the temp gauge is buried on the H, while my water temp gauge reads 100. I really need to have it on the road to see how it will react.

Enthalpy said it sounds like I have a major intake leak. That whistling coming from the bov.

A question I've been trying to get answered for a while n keep getting diff answers.

should ANYTHING be blocked off during the boost leak test?

Should the system hold pressure during a boost leak test? Ravi said he used a bike pump. I'm using a 60 gal comp and the comp kicks on to keep up. Something's not right.

A bike pump isn't gonna work! Lol, but at the same time nothing should leak. Yolks shouldn't hear air coming out of anywhere.

And yes, you should see psi when doing a boost leak test. I usually only at it for like 3 or 4 psi which is enough to find all my leaks.

ok thanks again man, i could see if you blocked it off at the throttle body then that could hold small pressure. When i set the comp at10psi the boost gauge sits at exactlly 10psi. but where does the all the extra air go? it must go somewhere, does it just dump in the crankcase? or out the exhaust somewhere?

what do you use to block off that vacuum nipple sticking out riht under the throttle body? i have the smallest cap i could find at the store pressed over it and zipped tied but when doing a boost test if it turn a certain way a small leak occurs. can i just silicone it off

i have a manual boost controller setup too, not sure if that even works. lol

how sketchy would it be to block the rear end up so the tires are in the air and go through the geARs? the cars not road legal and dont want to risk taking it out. think if i blocked it up and pounded out the first 3 gears i'd be alright? lol

i know thats ghetto as f***, i was going to put it on my buddies hoist right next door but has his truck frame on it right now. i just want to see what its going to do when it hits boost rather then break down 10 minutes up the road again.

Vacuum line with a screw in it. Lol, you doing the boost leak test from the intake of the turbo right? As far as the wasted air, yes. Crank case because of blow by and exhaust if any of the cams are in the section of over Lap. Other than that valves are closed.

As far as jacking up the rear end your car will have no load so won't build boost.

Hey compactfean, hopefully your still around, I was away working. My BOV flange was leaking like crazy and had to get a new one welded on, I also got a nipple welded to the intake pipe for the catch can.

Yes, I am testing from the intake side, that extra air I was asking about was going out the mini filter I had connected to the front of the valve cover tee. Since I hooked up the oil catch can i pressured up with only 5 psi and after building pressure the oil dip stick popped right out. I held it in and air started coming out of the oil filler cap. I pulled the line from the manifold that goes to the PCV and air was pissing out of the PCV.

The car seems to be running at the right fuel ratio on the Wideband now, but the vac is only around 16 on the boost gauge, and when I give it some throttle you can hear the intake sucking air, It's hard to explain the sound.

For the OCC setup it goes
Block to Back of Tee
Front of Tee to OCC Fitting
Other OCC Fitting to Intake pipe Nipple.

Compression is good on all cylinders.

Any ideas?