SR Rod bearing question?

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180sx2fast4u
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 12:52 pm
Car: 1991 240sx

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Is it possible to change the rod bearings from beneath, by removing the oil pan and componets, while leaving the motor assembled and in car?


exhsturbine
Posts: 128
Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:33 pm
Car: 1997 240
Location: Miramar, San Diego, California

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the answer is...... no.

well i suppose you could.... however i think that the pain in the *** of that would be 600x times more than just pulling the engine.

remember the crankshaft has to come out to get to both rod bearings for each piston. the rear of the crankshaft is connected to the transmission so you would have to remove that. the front of it has the pulley and the oil pump cover. so now your wrestling between one and half foot of space from the engine to the radiator support to get the pump cover off... then its back on your back on the cold hard concrete taking the rest of the pan off. i can think of about a hundred more steps in order to get that crank out all of which you dont want to do on the ground these are too critical of parts to be working on and worrying about being uncomfortable ................................

just take the engine out. put it on a stand and do all of this while you can flip the engine up side down sideways. you dont have to bend over a lowered car.
180sx2fast4u wrote: while leaving the motor assembled and in car?
so in short what you have to do... is disasseble the motor

just do yourself the favorr.... take it out

duffman1278
Posts: 6816
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

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I wouldn't even try it to be honest with you. You'll probably spend less time by taking the engine out and having WAAAAY easier access to it then to work under the car.

There's just only so much you can do on your car with the engine in the car and this is pretty much not one of those things.

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supreamS14
Posts: 1046
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:13 am
Car: 96 240sx S13-blacktop Sr20deT

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I did it on a 1993 honda prelude si H23 motor. It was The biggest pain ever and there was great access! Now looking from the bottom of my sr I would have to tell you; you will go too far out of your way and make it harder than pulling the motor! I should of pulled the honda motor and replaced the rear seal because it leaked all the oil out and caused the loudest rod Knock Ive ever heard! Kinda like an Teck-11 right next to your ear when the car was 10 feet away!

180sx2fast4u
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 12:52 pm
Car: 1991 240sx

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Why would i have to remove the crank? Couldn't I rotate the crank until each rod was all the way down, loosen up the two rod cap nuts, remove the rod cap, and press the piston up to free each bearing.

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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You don't have to remove the crankshaft. You can get each rod bearing off easily with everything still assembled in the car. However, you will need to remove the crossmember from the car, which means supporting the engine from above. That isn't very fun. Nor do I like the idea of 400+ pounds of motor dangling over my head on a chain.

180sx2fast4u
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 12:52 pm
Car: 1991 240sx

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If i pulled the motor and got it on an engine stand, i could change the bearings while leaving the head on correct?

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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Easily.

180sx2fast4u
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 12:52 pm
Car: 1991 240sx

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Thank You!!

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Neil
Posts: 745
Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:27 pm
Car: shooting laser guns

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when I developed rod knock i bought a new clutch and turbo to feel a little more justification in pulling the motor ><

I remember it being a little tricky figuring out how to get the upper half of the bearings seated properly in the conrod but once I figured out a method it was easy.

The new question is, can you replace the MAIN bearings without having to dismantle any timing chain components? I imagine you can pull out the tensioner and probably get enough slack to slide in new mains.. in hindsight I should have figured it out and replaced them as well..


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