I hear no FUEL PUMP when the igntion key is on. I believe there isn't any ECU power because I didn't see any lights flashing...
Since I have a 95 auto 240 before, my fuse box under the hood has lots of plugs. My SR plugs that are close to the alternator that are supposed to connect to 2 plugs by fuse box. Does anyone have any info on which wires go where? 'Cause 1 plug cannot fit, but easy fix, we can modify it. But the other plug plugs right in, but the wiring colors are not the same. So I was wondering these 2 plugs are the plugs that keeping the fuel pump not turn on and ECU.
My motor cranks, but doesn't start. It started when it was in the front clip so obviously, there isn't any problem with the engine itself. I believe the wiring by the fuse box is not right. I can trace which wire goes where, but I thought you SR einstein would help me out with this headache.
SR Redtop --> S14 Starting problem, PLEASE HELP
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Movingviolation240
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'93 Lexus SC300 w/ SP66 turbo kit
no, everybody's just sick of answering this same question over and over. http://www.google.com S13 SR into S14
or look at the other post where I just explained this whole thing (as well as a few other people).
or look at the other post where I just explained this whole thing (as well as a few other people).
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soilwork240sx
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Movingviolation240
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'93 Lexus SC300 w/ SP66 turbo kit
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Movingviolation240
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- Car: '95 Nissan 240SX 400hp SR20DET -SOLD
'93 Lexus SC300 w/ SP66 turbo kit
http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....28517
what anoys me is that your too lazy to spend the 15 sec it would have taken for you to look down that whole page of topics and see one that is the same as yours. So insted you just ask the same exact question a couple of lines later. Please look, it wouldn't have even taken the search button to find that one.
Paul
what anoys me is that your too lazy to spend the 15 sec it would have taken for you to look down that whole page of topics and see one that is the same as yours. So insted you just ask the same exact question a couple of lines later. Please look, it wouldn't have even taken the search button to find that one.
Paul
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AznRide
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OMG...i'm at the point where it's not even about the diagram. It's the fuse box plugs. If there is no power going to the ecu, fuel pump...hence BATTERY, then the car won't start up no matter what. ANd that is what I'm asking, not about the stupid engine harness. OMG...Maybe I'll just figure out by myself...thanks for ... well, nothing.
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The Riot Hero
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bust out the multichecker, find out if the circuit is complete, the fuel pump relay is on the drivers side behind the kick panel make sure its powered when the key is on and the ECU doesnt stay on when the key is off. uhhhhhhhh theres more but im tired and dont feel like explaining right now. good luck on the swap, s13 to s14 is a *****!
have fun and get it running.
have fun and get it running.
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Movingviolation240
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Movingviolation240
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'93 Lexus SC300 w/ SP66 turbo kit
Re: SR Redtop --> S14 Starting problem, PLEASE HELP
AznRide wrote:
Since I have a 95 auto 240 before, my fuse box under the hood has lots of plugs. My SR plugs that are close to the alternator that are supposed to connect to 2 plugs by fuse box. Does anyone have any info on which wires go where? 'Cause 1 plug cannot fit, but easy fix, we can modify it. But the other plug plugs right in, but the wiring colors are not the same. So I was wondering these 2 plugs are the plugs that keeping the fuel pump not turn on and ECU.
That was all explained on SR swap.com You have to wire that stuff to the power plug under the kickpannel on your KA chassis harness, did you do that?
Paul
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Movingviolation240
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Movingviolation240
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EZcheese15
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Movingviolation240
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This is the diagram I'm talkin about, minus pic's of course borrowed from SR20hybrids
http://sr20.hybrids.jp/install....html
S13 SR20DET Installation Into 1995 240sx -Keske [email protected] version 1.2 March 15, 2002 Installing a S13 SR20DET (red or blacktop) into a 1995 240sx is a very simple task that is not much more difficult than putting the same motor into a S13 chassis.
There are a few details that make this swap a bit different from swapping into the S13 chassis. The Upper Engine Harness on the S14 (KA and SR) has the plugs for your:
Windshield wiper motor Windshield wiper amplifier ABS sensor for right front wheel ASCD (cruise control). You will need to rewire all of the accessories that you have on your car to make them work with your engine and S13 SR20DET harness. If you are unfamiliar with S14's, you will also find the following differences from the S13
Power plugs on the S14 are under the dash (near the ECU) ECU relay is also found under the dash (near the ECU) instead of in the engine compartment as found on the S13. The water **** valve is located against the firewall (this lets hot coolant into the heater box for your heater The VSS is a plastic unit (found on the S14 KA and the 97-98 S13 SR20DET Blacktop motors (in KPH)) The S14 KA radiator is thicker than the MT S13 KA/SR radiator with different mounting points Intercooler piping on the S14 is routed differently on the drivers side, although you can still use the S13 style to route your intercooler piping Everything bolts up to the S14 chassis. You will need to route one of your heater hoses to the bottom of the water **** valve so your heater will work properly.
Wiring Information:
*Note: I do not have ABS or CC on my car so I did not wire them up. It should not be difficult to do so however as you will just need to run a wire from the plug to F3. I will look this up and add it to this document later on.
Here is a list of things you will need to make your own harness:Electrical Tape (Scotch/3M commercial grade kicks ***) Heat Shrink Tubing of various sizes (buy a couple assorted size packs) 1/4" and 1/2" Wire loom (get about 6' of the 1/4" and about 10' of the 1/2") 20' of 18 gauge stranded electrical wire 20' of 14 gauge stranded electrical wire Solder w/ flux core Soldering Iron Wire Cutters Wire Stripers FSM for your car 2 Grounding Ring Terminals Zip Ties First you will need to locate the plugs needed to make this swap work. Try to get both ends of the power plugs and of the instrument cluster from the S13 JDM shell to make your harness. If you do not have these ends, you can either hardwire your harness or you can make your own plugs but you will need to get male and female ends and rewire both sides (stay away from crimps!). I also highly recommend that you double check each pin location and confirm that you are wiring it to the correct pin against the FSM for your car.
Plugs from the S13 SR20DET Harness:F8-S13 SR Power Plug
F10-S13 SR Power Plug
S13 SR Instrument Cluster Plug
Plugs off of the S14 KA24DE Harness:F2-S14 KA ECU Relay
F7-S14 KA Wiper Motor
F9-S14 KA Wiper Amplifier
F3-S14 KA Power Plug(The pin out for this plug is incorrect in my 1995 S14 FSM. I will add a pin out for this soon.)
The basic principle of creating a new intermediary harness is to reconnect your S14 accessories (wiper motor, wiper amplifier, CC, and ABS) to the main power plug, F3-S14 KA (which plugs into M63-S14 KA on the interior side). You will also be wiring the S13 SR power plugs to the F3-S14 KA Power Plug and you will wire the instrument cluster plug from the F3-S14 KA Power Plug. Once you have made all of the connections you will be able to plug the F3-S14 KA Power Plug into the M63-S14 KA Power Plug and to the power plugs of the S13 SR, and you will be able to plug in your accessories and your instrument cluster.
First, a few words about soldering. If you don't intend to solder all of your connections, stop reading this right now and figure out the wiring on your own. I do not endorse in any way the use of crimp connectors for your wiring harness. You will only cause yourself trouble down the road and end up having to redo things. Make sure you properly strip all wires and properly solder all connections (do not cold solder your joints or they will fail) and then heat shrink each connection. I then put electrical tape over each heat shrink connection (I am a bit paranoid) and then loomed the entire thing. The last thing you want to happen is a failure of a solder joint or something shorting w/ another wire.
Wiring Details:Wire color Key:OR- Orange LG- Light Green B- Black PU- Purple P- Pink BR- Brown R- Read W- White G-Green L- Blue Y- Yellow GY- Gray SB- Sky Blue LG/R-Light Green w/ Red Stripe LG/B- Light Green w/ Black Stripe L/Y- Blue w/ Yellow Stripe B/P- Black w/ Pink Stripe B/W- Black w/ White Stripe R/B- Red w/ Black Stripe B/Y- Black w/ Yellow Stripe B/R- Black w/ Red Stripe L/R- Blue w/ Red Stripe Y/G- Yellow w/ Green Stripe Y/R- Yellow w/ Red Stripe L/B- Blue w/ Black Stripe
Wiper Motor and Wiper Amplifier
F7-S14 KA and F9-S14 KA are both located in the engine bay, against the firewall, on the passenger side. You will only need to make the F7 to F9 wires long enough to connect to each other (make your wires about 1.5'). When you make your connections to F3-S14 KA, make sure you have enough room to go through the firewall and down to the kick panel in the passenger compartment (about 3' should do it). You will need to ground one wire on F7-S14 KA and one wire on F9-S14 KA to the engine. I used a generic grounding wire (make sure the wire is the same gauge as the wire you're using) that I grounded to the intake manifold (where the other two grounding wires are located below the fuel rail).
Wiper Motor-F7 S14 KA to F9 S14 KA and F3 S14 KA (See EL-102 S14 FSM)
F7-S14 KA F9-S14 KA 1-OR 8-OR 2-LG 6-LG5-LG(F3-S14 KA) 6-B 7-BGround to Engine
F7-S14 KA F3-S14 KA 2-LG 6-LG (Wiper Amplifier)5-LG 4-LG/R 7-LG/R 5-LG/B 6-LG/B
Wiper Amplifier-F9 S14 KA to F7 S14 KA and F3 S14 KA (See EL-102 S14 FSM)
F9-S14 KA F7-S14 KA Identification 6-LG 5-LG (F3)2-LG (IGN) 7-B 6-BGround to Engine (GND) 8-OR 1-OR
F9-S14 KA F3-S14 KA Identification 1-L/Y 19-L/Y (INT/SW) 2-PU 42-PU (INT/VR) (SE ONLY) 4-BR 8-BR (OFF & INT SW) 5-P 4-P (WASH SW) 6-LG 5-LG2-LG (Wiper Motor) (IGN)
Fuel Pump RelayConnect one wire from F10-S13 SR to the power plug F3- S14 KA (make this wire about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA).
Fuel Pump Relay- F3 S14 KA to F10 S13 SR Harness (See EC-201 S14 FSM)
F3-S14 KA F10-S13 SR Identification 27-B/P 2-B/P (Fuel Pump Relay)
ECU RelayThis is pretty straight forward. You need to power the ecu relay from F3-S14 KA plug and then run wires to the power plugs on the S13 SR harness (make the wires from the relay to the ecu about 1' long as the relay will be left by the ecu and power plug, and make the wires from the relay to the S13 power plugs about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA).
F3-S14 KA F2- S14 KA Identification 9-R 2-R (Power to Relay) 9-R 5-R (Power to Relay)
F8- S13 SR F2-S14 KA Identification 2-B/W 3-B/W (Ecu Power)
F10-S13 SR F2-S14 KA Identification 4-R/B 1-R/B (Ecu Relay)
ECU BackupYou need to run one wire from the S13 SR power plug to the F3-S14 KA power plug. Make this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
ECU Backup- F3 S14 KA to F8 S13 SR Harness (See EC-85 S14 FSM)
F8-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 1-R 9-R (ECU Backup)
IACVThe 1995 KA24DE has two IACV's. I hooked the SR20DET IACV up to the IACV Air Regulator power on the S14. See the S14 FSM for more details. Make this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
IACV- F3 S14 KA to F8 S13 SR Harness (See EC-216, EC-112 S14 FSM)
F8-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 6-B/Y 26-B/Y (IACV Power)
Ignition Power and Coilpack PowerMake this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
Ignition Power & Coilpack Power- F3 S14 KA to F8 S13 SR Harness (See EC-106 S14 FSM)
F8-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 4-B/R 1-B/R (Ignition Power) 8-L/R 1-B/R (Coilpack Power)
O2 Sensor Since this is a heated O2 sensor, I wired this the same way the rear heated O2 sensor is wired on the KA24DE (the secondary O2 sensor in the downpipe of the KA). Make this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
O2 Sensor- F3 S14 KA to F10 S13 SR Harness (See EC-164)
F10-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 7-BR 10-BR (O2 Sensor Power)
Instrument ClusterIdeally you will have the other end of the S13 SR20DET instrument cluster plug (this is why it pays to get front cuts) so you don't have to hardwire this. If you do not have the plug you will need cut the other end of the harness plug end off of your S13 SR20DET harness and hardwire this (or make your own plug if you are feeling innovative). The wires do not have to be long as they will go from F3-S14 KA to the instrument cluster plug near the ECU plug.
Instrument Cluster- S13 SR Cluster Plug to F3 S14 KA Harness
S13 SR Instrument Plug F3-S14 KA Identification Y/G 16-Y/G (VSS See EC-103) Y/R 18-Y/R (TACH See EL-76) B Ground to Chassis (Ground See EC-85) OR 34-OR (Ignition Start See EC-198) L/B 20-Y (Water Temperature See EL-76)
Once all connections have been made, double check all of your connections and tape and loom everything up. You are now ready to plug this into your harness on your motor and into your chassis. Follow the standard fire up procedures of the engine and make sure that everything works properly. Happy Motoring.
Pictures:
Here are pictures of the harness with all connections made:
Entire unloomed harness
F3, ECU Relay (F2), and instrument plug
F7 and F9 Wiper plugs
F8 and F10 Power plugs
Here is a picture of the harness loomed
> back to installations page> back to home page
http://sr20.hybrids.jp/install....html
S13 SR20DET Installation Into 1995 240sx -Keske [email protected] version 1.2 March 15, 2002 Installing a S13 SR20DET (red or blacktop) into a 1995 240sx is a very simple task that is not much more difficult than putting the same motor into a S13 chassis.
There are a few details that make this swap a bit different from swapping into the S13 chassis. The Upper Engine Harness on the S14 (KA and SR) has the plugs for your:
Windshield wiper motor Windshield wiper amplifier ABS sensor for right front wheel ASCD (cruise control). You will need to rewire all of the accessories that you have on your car to make them work with your engine and S13 SR20DET harness. If you are unfamiliar with S14's, you will also find the following differences from the S13
Power plugs on the S14 are under the dash (near the ECU) ECU relay is also found under the dash (near the ECU) instead of in the engine compartment as found on the S13. The water **** valve is located against the firewall (this lets hot coolant into the heater box for your heater The VSS is a plastic unit (found on the S14 KA and the 97-98 S13 SR20DET Blacktop motors (in KPH)) The S14 KA radiator is thicker than the MT S13 KA/SR radiator with different mounting points Intercooler piping on the S14 is routed differently on the drivers side, although you can still use the S13 style to route your intercooler piping Everything bolts up to the S14 chassis. You will need to route one of your heater hoses to the bottom of the water **** valve so your heater will work properly.
Wiring Information:
*Note: I do not have ABS or CC on my car so I did not wire them up. It should not be difficult to do so however as you will just need to run a wire from the plug to F3. I will look this up and add it to this document later on.
Here is a list of things you will need to make your own harness:Electrical Tape (Scotch/3M commercial grade kicks ***) Heat Shrink Tubing of various sizes (buy a couple assorted size packs) 1/4" and 1/2" Wire loom (get about 6' of the 1/4" and about 10' of the 1/2") 20' of 18 gauge stranded electrical wire 20' of 14 gauge stranded electrical wire Solder w/ flux core Soldering Iron Wire Cutters Wire Stripers FSM for your car 2 Grounding Ring Terminals Zip Ties First you will need to locate the plugs needed to make this swap work. Try to get both ends of the power plugs and of the instrument cluster from the S13 JDM shell to make your harness. If you do not have these ends, you can either hardwire your harness or you can make your own plugs but you will need to get male and female ends and rewire both sides (stay away from crimps!). I also highly recommend that you double check each pin location and confirm that you are wiring it to the correct pin against the FSM for your car.
Plugs from the S13 SR20DET Harness:F8-S13 SR Power Plug
F10-S13 SR Power Plug
S13 SR Instrument Cluster Plug
Plugs off of the S14 KA24DE Harness:F2-S14 KA ECU Relay
F7-S14 KA Wiper Motor
F9-S14 KA Wiper Amplifier
F3-S14 KA Power Plug(The pin out for this plug is incorrect in my 1995 S14 FSM. I will add a pin out for this soon.)
The basic principle of creating a new intermediary harness is to reconnect your S14 accessories (wiper motor, wiper amplifier, CC, and ABS) to the main power plug, F3-S14 KA (which plugs into M63-S14 KA on the interior side). You will also be wiring the S13 SR power plugs to the F3-S14 KA Power Plug and you will wire the instrument cluster plug from the F3-S14 KA Power Plug. Once you have made all of the connections you will be able to plug the F3-S14 KA Power Plug into the M63-S14 KA Power Plug and to the power plugs of the S13 SR, and you will be able to plug in your accessories and your instrument cluster.
First, a few words about soldering. If you don't intend to solder all of your connections, stop reading this right now and figure out the wiring on your own. I do not endorse in any way the use of crimp connectors for your wiring harness. You will only cause yourself trouble down the road and end up having to redo things. Make sure you properly strip all wires and properly solder all connections (do not cold solder your joints or they will fail) and then heat shrink each connection. I then put electrical tape over each heat shrink connection (I am a bit paranoid) and then loomed the entire thing. The last thing you want to happen is a failure of a solder joint or something shorting w/ another wire.
Wiring Details:Wire color Key:OR- Orange LG- Light Green B- Black PU- Purple P- Pink BR- Brown R- Read W- White G-Green L- Blue Y- Yellow GY- Gray SB- Sky Blue LG/R-Light Green w/ Red Stripe LG/B- Light Green w/ Black Stripe L/Y- Blue w/ Yellow Stripe B/P- Black w/ Pink Stripe B/W- Black w/ White Stripe R/B- Red w/ Black Stripe B/Y- Black w/ Yellow Stripe B/R- Black w/ Red Stripe L/R- Blue w/ Red Stripe Y/G- Yellow w/ Green Stripe Y/R- Yellow w/ Red Stripe L/B- Blue w/ Black Stripe
Wiper Motor and Wiper Amplifier
F7-S14 KA and F9-S14 KA are both located in the engine bay, against the firewall, on the passenger side. You will only need to make the F7 to F9 wires long enough to connect to each other (make your wires about 1.5'). When you make your connections to F3-S14 KA, make sure you have enough room to go through the firewall and down to the kick panel in the passenger compartment (about 3' should do it). You will need to ground one wire on F7-S14 KA and one wire on F9-S14 KA to the engine. I used a generic grounding wire (make sure the wire is the same gauge as the wire you're using) that I grounded to the intake manifold (where the other two grounding wires are located below the fuel rail).
Wiper Motor-F7 S14 KA to F9 S14 KA and F3 S14 KA (See EL-102 S14 FSM)
F7-S14 KA F9-S14 KA 1-OR 8-OR 2-LG 6-LG5-LG(F3-S14 KA) 6-B 7-BGround to Engine
F7-S14 KA F3-S14 KA 2-LG 6-LG (Wiper Amplifier)5-LG 4-LG/R 7-LG/R 5-LG/B 6-LG/B
Wiper Amplifier-F9 S14 KA to F7 S14 KA and F3 S14 KA (See EL-102 S14 FSM)
F9-S14 KA F7-S14 KA Identification 6-LG 5-LG (F3)2-LG (IGN) 7-B 6-BGround to Engine (GND) 8-OR 1-OR
F9-S14 KA F3-S14 KA Identification 1-L/Y 19-L/Y (INT/SW) 2-PU 42-PU (INT/VR) (SE ONLY) 4-BR 8-BR (OFF & INT SW) 5-P 4-P (WASH SW) 6-LG 5-LG2-LG (Wiper Motor) (IGN)
Fuel Pump RelayConnect one wire from F10-S13 SR to the power plug F3- S14 KA (make this wire about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA).
Fuel Pump Relay- F3 S14 KA to F10 S13 SR Harness (See EC-201 S14 FSM)
F3-S14 KA F10-S13 SR Identification 27-B/P 2-B/P (Fuel Pump Relay)
ECU RelayThis is pretty straight forward. You need to power the ecu relay from F3-S14 KA plug and then run wires to the power plugs on the S13 SR harness (make the wires from the relay to the ecu about 1' long as the relay will be left by the ecu and power plug, and make the wires from the relay to the S13 power plugs about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA).
F3-S14 KA F2- S14 KA Identification 9-R 2-R (Power to Relay) 9-R 5-R (Power to Relay)
F8- S13 SR F2-S14 KA Identification 2-B/W 3-B/W (Ecu Power)
F10-S13 SR F2-S14 KA Identification 4-R/B 1-R/B (Ecu Relay)
ECU BackupYou need to run one wire from the S13 SR power plug to the F3-S14 KA power plug. Make this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
ECU Backup- F3 S14 KA to F8 S13 SR Harness (See EC-85 S14 FSM)
F8-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 1-R 9-R (ECU Backup)
IACVThe 1995 KA24DE has two IACV's. I hooked the SR20DET IACV up to the IACV Air Regulator power on the S14. See the S14 FSM for more details. Make this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
IACV- F3 S14 KA to F8 S13 SR Harness (See EC-216, EC-112 S14 FSM)
F8-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 6-B/Y 26-B/Y (IACV Power)
Ignition Power and Coilpack PowerMake this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
Ignition Power & Coilpack Power- F3 S14 KA to F8 S13 SR Harness (See EC-106 S14 FSM)
F8-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 4-B/R 1-B/R (Ignition Power) 8-L/R 1-B/R (Coilpack Power)
O2 Sensor Since this is a heated O2 sensor, I wired this the same way the rear heated O2 sensor is wired on the KA24DE (the secondary O2 sensor in the downpipe of the KA). Make this about 4-5' long depending on where you put your S13 power plugs in relation to F3-S14 KA.
O2 Sensor- F3 S14 KA to F10 S13 SR Harness (See EC-164)
F10-S13 SR F3-S14 KA Identification 7-BR 10-BR (O2 Sensor Power)
Instrument ClusterIdeally you will have the other end of the S13 SR20DET instrument cluster plug (this is why it pays to get front cuts) so you don't have to hardwire this. If you do not have the plug you will need cut the other end of the harness plug end off of your S13 SR20DET harness and hardwire this (or make your own plug if you are feeling innovative). The wires do not have to be long as they will go from F3-S14 KA to the instrument cluster plug near the ECU plug.
Instrument Cluster- S13 SR Cluster Plug to F3 S14 KA Harness
S13 SR Instrument Plug F3-S14 KA Identification Y/G 16-Y/G (VSS See EC-103) Y/R 18-Y/R (TACH See EL-76) B Ground to Chassis (Ground See EC-85) OR 34-OR (Ignition Start See EC-198) L/B 20-Y (Water Temperature See EL-76)
Once all connections have been made, double check all of your connections and tape and loom everything up. You are now ready to plug this into your harness on your motor and into your chassis. Follow the standard fire up procedures of the engine and make sure that everything works properly. Happy Motoring.
Pictures:
Here are pictures of the harness with all connections made:
Entire unloomed harness
F3, ECU Relay (F2), and instrument plug
F7 and F9 Wiper plugs
F8 and F10 Power plugs
Here is a picture of the harness loomed
> back to installations page> back to home page
-
Movingviolation240
- Posts: 1681
- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2002 2:26 pm
- Car: '95 Nissan 240SX 400hp SR20DET -SOLD
'93 Lexus SC300 w/ SP66 turbo kit
-
Movingviolation240
- Posts: 1681
- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2002 2:26 pm
- Car: '95 Nissan 240SX 400hp SR20DET -SOLD
'93 Lexus SC300 w/ SP66 turbo kit
-
AznRide
- Posts: 924
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 5:36 pm
- Car: Cars, hondas, import cars, girls, cars, girls, girls, and more beautiful girls.
Stupid me...hehe. I was a honda Guru so I didn't think I have to tighten the bolt for the ECU Plug, unlike Honda's, it would plugs right in, in a snap. So I was messing with it, and when I move my ECU a different way, the fuel pump would go on. I thought my ECU was possessed. Anyways, to make the story short, I tightened the screw in the middle of my ECU plug and she starts right up.
I also found 2 Black/pink wires in the KA F3 plug, so I connected them both, but I don't know what exactly the other one does. The one that is Black/Pink is identified as the Fuel Pump Relay, and the other Black/Pink with silver dots is ... I have no clue, but I connected them anyways. Maybe it's not even needed, but any how, she starts right up. Ran smooth. Now I gotta finishing up some of the misc. Thanks guys for the help.
I also found 2 Black/pink wires in the KA F3 plug, so I connected them both, but I don't know what exactly the other one does. The one that is Black/Pink is identified as the Fuel Pump Relay, and the other Black/Pink with silver dots is ... I have no clue, but I connected them anyways. Maybe it's not even needed, but any how, she starts right up. Ran smooth. Now I gotta finishing up some of the misc. Thanks guys for the help.
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ItzGenX
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Quote »You cut the SR plugs off and stick your KA plugs on the ends of the wires. That way it plugs right in and you don't have to find new parts.[/quote]
Which plugs are we talking about that gets cut off the SR harness? Also, which KA plugs transfer over? Don't give me the connector codes, I have no clue on which one is what when someone refers to them like that.
Which plugs are we talking about that gets cut off the SR harness? Also, which KA plugs transfer over? Don't give me the connector codes, I have no clue on which one is what when someone refers to them like that.
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EZcheese15
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2011 Titan Pro-4X
2007 BMW 328i - Location: St. Charles, IL
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ItzGenX wrote:Which plugs are we talking about that gets cut off the SR harness? Also, which KA plugs transfer over? Don't give me the connector codes, I have no clue on which one is what when someone refers to them like that.
How are we supposed to describe them without using the connector codes? And what's so hard about going to http://sr20.hybrids.jp/install....html and looking at the connector codes next to the pictures of the connectors?
If you were to actually look at the website, it would be fairly obvious that F8, F10, and the instrument cluster get cut off the SR harness, and F2, F7, F9, and F3 on the KA harness get lengthened.
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AznRide
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To tell you the truth, the only wiring that needs to be lenghten is the MAFS, and that's it. Just cut the F3 plug off your KA as long as you can, about a foot, and same thing with ny other plugs. One you get it all hooked up, your harness should be only 1 square foot long, for real. That's only if you have the other end of the F8, F10, and SR instrument plugs.
Anyways, I left my engine harness alone. Instead of mating the wires to the engine harness, I mate it to my female plugs that I took off my clip for the F8, F10, and SR instrument female plugs. After that, I just wrapped it up and plug them in. I put everything inside the car, it's really easy. Any other question, let me know.
Anyways, I left my engine harness alone. Instead of mating the wires to the engine harness, I mate it to my female plugs that I took off my clip for the F8, F10, and SR instrument female plugs. After that, I just wrapped it up and plug them in. I put everything inside the car, it's really easy. Any other question, let me know.