Sr odd behavior

[Rays_240]

Ok, just the other day my Sr was running great. I have had my swap now for about a month now so I decided it was time to clean up the wiring harness and make it look good. So I cut the extra length of wiring out and extend the maf and o2 wires and all that jazz. I start my car and it starts up just fine but is very loud and my turbo is making a screeching noise. Also when I hit the gas it bogs a split second before it goes. After It warms up it bogs less but idles low. I figured out that the turbo had come loose from the manifold so I tightened that back down and the screeching went away. Car still runs like crap though. Is it really a big deal to cut and splice your harness back together? I’ve gone over it 3 times now and it seems fine. If anyone has any ideas please help me out.

[USMCgetsome]

did u extend that particular wiring with SHIELDED WIRE? If not then yes it can cause issues due to getting signal interference.

[Rays_240]

Yes the only wiring I extended with the sheilded wiring was the maf and I used my stock ka maf wring wich is also sheilded

[USMCgetsome]

how did you terminate the wiring and link the shielding? staggering the wires using solder joints or splices? ensuring the shielding is constantly/continually making contact

[Rays_240]

I used about an inch of wiring and twisted them together very tightly, I tried to solder them but couldnt get it to work. I wraped them tightly in electrical tape. I didnt realized the 1in long break in the sheilding would be a big deal?

[USMCgetsome]

how about the main wires how did u connect them?

[PyR0NiAk]

Also sounds like a bad ground...

[Rays_240]

I conected them all the same way, i know its not the best way but Ive never had a problem with it before. i was thinking a bad ground also but Ive taken the entire harness apart and put it back together and it runs the same exact way...

[USMCgetsome]

the reason i ask is if it's a solder joint it could be a cold solder joint and causing a bad connection. Also check the pins in the connector to see if they are fully seated. that shield if wrapped around tightly isn't the best way of termination. Use alcohol to clean the braid and use flux paste or flux liquid to help the solder flow over the shield.

[Rays_240]

So you guys 100% think its in the wirring and not possibly a sensor or anything else causing this problem?

[USMCgetsome]

no one will know untill u start attacking and troubleshooting your issues.

[PyR0NiAk]

This is correct... We can only point you in possible directions.. We can't just know the answer.. You could check for codes, although I really doubt you're throwing any if it's in the wiring. There's a link for how to check them in the SR FAQ

[Rays_240]

I tried to check my codes but my ecu doesn’t have the screw to turn? I’ve done it before on my ka but the sr ecu just has a blank spot with a little white gear thing in it with no screw? I’ve taken the harness completely out and completely redid it with the same result

[PyR0NiAk]

The white gear thing is the screw... Pretty sure it's got a notch for a flat head screw driver if I remember correctly.

[Rays_240]

Checked my ecu codes today and just got 55 so no luck there. I guess I’m gonna pick up a harness form wiring spec. whenever they become available because I’m not sure what else I can really check. Is there any particular sensors that could be causing these problems?

[PyR0NiAk]

Is it still hesitating, or did that go away when you tightened the manifold?

[Rays_240]

still hesitating, only problem the manifold fixed was the loud screaching, it boggs bad under 3k and anytime I hit the gas hard it bogs abit anytime. If I acelerate really smothly it wont bog at all. My idle is still low and if i start my car already warm it will shut right off after starting. also i noticed that if im flooring it and let off the gas slowly sometimes it bucks almost like a spike in boost.

[Rays_240]

Is it possible that any of these problems could be casued by a bad turbo?

[PyR0NiAk]

In theory, yes. If your turbo is trying to seize, it would make sense for it to hesitate..

[Rays_240]

well i guess ill just be waiting for my harness and we will find out then

[the converted]

have you checked your timing and your TPS voltages?

[Rays_240]

I havent checked the timing but I never touched it, it still has the foil/sticker thing from the factory on it and its not broken/torn. I didnt cut or modify any of the wiring that goes to the tps sensor either.

[the converted]

Just because it's never been touched doesn't mean it's right.

[Rays_240]

wrong from the factory?

[PyR0NiAk]

TPS sensor could have been knocked out of adjustment. It literally swivels to adjust, and it's extremely sensitive. As far as you're timing, CAS get bused all of the time during shipping, so it's very possible it was busted and an importer just stuck another one in it, without actually seting the timing.

[Rays_240]

how would I go about restting my tps? if theres a write up already and you know the link let me know

[Rays_240]

ok so after checking my tps sensor Ive decided its correct. However I purchased a new hks bov to replace my greddy knockoff junk thinking that may be part of the problem. With the hks valve the car wont even stay running, and when it does it idles up and down between 1500 and 300 and then shuts off after a few times. When Im just crusing the car sounds like its breaking up and stutters. The car seems ok after I get moving and stay on the gas but not great. Now this hks is the non adjustable type and I have it T'd off the fpr. If I unplug the vacum line form the bov it idles and drives normally, just with a bunch of compressor surge. Its not recircualted but I thought the hks valves wernt supposed to be open at idle and/or crusing. As soon as I put the vacum line back on it dies instantly. any thoughts on this.