yea-i hotwired the pump to the fuel pump fuse so it must have been the fuel that was sitting in the rail from me doing so.

yea .. welp.. all I can say now is just wait for that ECU... I can say myself that I have had a bad ecu which failed to initiate the fuel pump and that's all that was wrong with it....

ok. i am retiring for the nite/morning. goodnite miss...

So maybe your entire problem is the cas not installed properly. Can't remember but also your fuel pump wiring going to the pump.

leroiboy wrote:ok. i am retiring for the nite/morning. goodnite miss...

g'night! Meeee too.

ok, just for clarification, how exactly should i install it?

so the CAS is installed 15*btdc, is this the correct understanding?

yea set your timing mark on the pulley to the right one I think it's the second one on the left.. it's got a paint mark. Line the dots up on the CAS (refer to FSM)and then put it back in. There is also a pic that shows what it's supposed to look like when installed (where the bolt you loosen up to adjust your timing is supposed to be.. right in the middle of that slot.

i looked at heavy throttle's faq for the timing and now i am confused because it seems they are saying to install the CAS with the engine at TDP. so which is it- TDC or 15* BTDC? THANKS

actually first of all i found out today that frsports writeup is followed by the s14sr fsm..and i also found out the s14 and s13 sr's cas lineup is different..I heard the s13sr is different by 180degrees..so you may want to keep that in mind..also the fsm says when installing the CAS to set the engine to TDC..however this is after just installing a new timing chain too..so I am not sure if you would install it at TDC or 15degrees btdc when JUST doing the CAS..i would think TDC since you are setting the CAS in the same position manually when stabbing it

well, i just tried it at tdc and got nothing. i guess ill try it at 15 degrees btdc tommorrow. this is just puzzling me tho because when i took the CAS out of the head the other day(after hotwiring the fuel pump)and was rotating it to check for injector operation, the injector fired the fuel that was up there down into one of the cylinders...why in the world wont it work with everything installed and me cranking the motor and still the fuel pump prime issue is bothering me;even when the pump is hotwired, should it not still sense when enough fuel is up at the rail and turn off?-(or no simply because it's hotwired?), and what controls its shutoff after priming when the key is placed in the on position?

hmm, what the.... you set the motor at TDC, sorry.. and then install the CAS... how could the S14's be 180deg off? And leroi, how do you know that you're not getting anything when your car won't even start anyway? I'm confussssed...

ahhh, saw the CAS thread you posted in ... I dont know where that guy heard that the s14's is 180deg off... that can't be right... do what that guy said on that thread tho-

Daph

if im sending fuel up to the rail, the injectors should go ahead and send it down to the cylinders-i don't know why this is not happening seeing as the CAS worked fine and when removed from the block, activated one of the injectors and sent fuel down to the cylinder and was ignited(right before i took the CAS out, i had the pump running so fuel was at the rail).

its obvious what the problem is..if your FP is not cutting out (when it is NOT hotwired) and your injectors only inject fuel when done manually then the problem is your ecu..the ecu controls both of these things and seeing as how neither are working then the finger points to the ecu

that's a big 10-4. i think i will be towing my car to a shop tommorrow to use one of their ecu's.

WHOOO! I can't wait to hear what happens! I will be logging on tomorrow & waiting for the special update.

tiger wrote:boom shaka-lacka... manual ecu is red... it doesn't matter if yours is green,

#62's are manual and #63's are auto. Never noticed if all autos are green and manuals red but if they are then yes i guess you can go by color too. I always just remembered it by number

So you ordered another ecu? Just to make sure before you go throwing your bad ecu away..go out there and make sure you have the blue connector tightened down evenly on both the right and left side. If you have it uneven/ not making a connection to the pins on one side then you will have problems..its a common mistake..just a thought

oh

S13FASTBACKSR wrote:

#62's are manual and #63's are auto. Never noticed if all autos are green and manuals red but if they are then yes i guess you can go by color too. I always just remembered it by number

oh every auto ecu i have had was green... I remember all my friends had the right ones and they were red. 62's. I had a green auto ecu and that one crapped out... It decided that it wasn't going to turn the fuel pump on anymore, took me forEVER to figure out what was wrong. About 2.5 weeks. That's what i'm hoping is the problem with leroi's...

no, didnt order one, but the shop is pretty cool and i am more than willing to buy it if it is the problem. ya know, let me double check that tightening down of the connector...

i had a 63 before and i had a couple of 62's I believe my 63 was green now that i think about it and all my 62's were red..interesting..never knew about that..so all autos are green and manuals red..cool stuff..ya leroy im very confident in saying the ecu is the culprit

^^yea,me too. it was slightly crooked, but that wasn't it(darn once again...)and i checked the pins to make sure they weren't bent. i never did bolt the ecu down, does the casing have to be physically grounded as well?

Ya its a good chance that the ecu's blue plug is not the culprit but then again it could be a good chance that it is..think about it, if that plug is not connecting with some of the pins then obviously there will be problems because those pins dont have a connection so its like they are M.I.A. and how is a engine supposed to perform properly without certain components..I dont know if its just me but whenever i swap ecus i always have a hard time getting that plug perfectly even..but from the problems your having i dont think its the plug..it was just a thought, a little ray of hope

No. When I installed my SR i didnt ground it and then after time i did..no difference but good question..There were two reasons i did it..one just because and two to hold the ecu in place better from moving around and getting banged up

oh ok. yea i'll bolt it on up whenever i get this mess straightened out.

are you still going to have the car towed today? what shop are you going to that has an sr ecu? let us know when you get back ok man..good luck!

won't be able to get it towed until tommorrow. it's going to a shop called lethal injection tuning in marietta,ga. derrick, whom i spoke to was real down to earth and seems like a great guy and says he WILL have me running by the weekend. he didn't have any ecu's on hand for me to try, and although he has like a million sr's up there, they were either not stock or they were for s14's. so hopefully by thursday or friday, i will be able to make that post that i have wanted to since the first time i turned the key after finishing the install...

hey s13, i just read one of your posts in another thread. does the ecu light staying on indicating a bad ecu only apply to if the engine is running? mine stays solid red with ignition on, just curious.

yes that only applys if the engine is in fact running. That l.e.d. is supposed to be on when the key is on..not when the engine is running