SR Installation

[ibreakstuff]

I'm going to go over how I installed a red top into my 93 hardbody extended cab.



I picked up this motor from JDM of Miami. They were more than willing to pull down every motor and let me pick through them until I found the one I wanted.



If you garage looked like Sanford and Son moved in , you might want to organize a bit before you get started.



Don't forget the beer. While budwieser isn't usually my first choice they come in a motor swap size economy pack (18).


Modified by ibreakstuff at 7:22 PM 10/4/2007

[Big-Bird]

Sweet. Make sure you keep the posts current on this one. I am thinking of compiling a complete "How - To" with all the info our Nico Members are posting.

It could be a very useful piece of literature.

[SEV6]

After your done with the swap you should look into a bedliner But either way keep us updated

[ibreakstuff]

The white truck is actually a roofing truck, bedliner not required.

This is what the KA looked like before I started. There's actually some damage behind the grille due to the previous owner hitting a deer.



I'm not going into detail on the removal other than to say the AC and radiator were already trashed and I'm not really concerned with repairing them.



Here's the old head gasket. Don't know why it blew up.

[ibreakstuff]

Remember that anything that was in the cooling system for the KA (old coolant, bars leaks, oil, mystery fluid) will be in your heater core. You don't want this in your new $2000 motor. Flush this out very thoroughly in both directions.

[ibreakstuff]

My transmission, ECU, Inginter, and MAF sensor came separate from my motor. Inspect these parts carefully because they are very expensive to replace later on.

[redtop91]

Irony

People take the truck motor out of the car and now the car motor in the truck . Looks good and SR's are FTW.

[ibreakstuff]

Now is also the time to replace the clutch. It doesn't matter if it only has 40K on it it's a lot easier to change it now.





New throw out bearing



4 puck ACT



Locktite is your friend

[ibreakstuff]

Have a friend remove the clutch fan while you drink a beer



Attach the transmission

[gear_grinder]

+1 add to sticky

[jEzTeR]

Great thread!

[ibreakstuff]

I've been a bit busy lately so I'm going to try an finish this tonight.



Since most motors will come sitting on their oil pan, you'll need to inspect yours carefully. The SR motor is very sensitive to dents in the oil pan because the oil pickup sits very low. I had to take mine off and bang it back out a little. Make sure you use the proper gasket seal when reinstalling the oil pan.

[ibreakstuff]

Your fuel system will have to be upgraded with a Walboro 255lph fuel pump(about $100). I'm on bags so I have easy access to my fuel pump so I'm not going to include those pics (someone else who has done this swap may want to do a tutorial on the fuel pump install). You'll also need to upgrade your fuel filter to a 300zx twin turbo filter.

For the time being here is some info:

http://srownersclub.com/faq/index.asp

[ibreakstuff]

You can use the stock SR (240) mounts, but the engine will end up sitting at a very goofy angle. I used the stock truck alternator because the + output bolt clears the frame a little better. I also trimmed a little of the factory mounting bracket off for clearance. You have to weld it underneath the bracket for strength.



For the motor mounts used two 1/2" thick steel plates and the rubber bumper from the truck mount for a little bit of give. Drill a hole through the combination and use a hardened steel bolt to mount the motor.



If I ever finish the truck I'll fabricate solid mounts.

[ibreakstuff]

This space reserved

[ibreakstuff]

When installing you motor it may be easier to separate the transmission from the motor due to space restrictions. I'm stubborn so I did it the hard way.

You'll have to remove the shifter via a c clip to get the transmission in. (before you reinstall the shifter you can use this hole to fill the transmission with gearbox oil.)



I don't have any action shots of the motor going in. I was a little to busy yelling and throwing stuff.

[ibreakstuff]

Transmission mounts will almost line up. You'll have to fabricate you own mounts for this (a block of aluminum here is you friend).

I don't have any finished pics of the mount so I'll post them the next time I get under the truck.



You will have to cut the driveshaft. If your carrier bearing looks like this you should probably get it replaced at this time:



Differential. Once again there are advantages to not having a bed:



The finished driveshaft. I'm not saying how much I had cut off because my suspension is different than yours. A shop that specializes in driveshafts will be able to instruct you on how to get the measurements for this. BTW this cost about $250 with the carrier bearing.

[ibreakstuff]

Before you set the motor be 100% sure that the water lines going to the heater coil are tight. You will not be able to get to these easily when the motor is mounted.



Once the motor is mounted and the driveshaft installed you'll need to take care of the wiring (see my other post), Fuel (2 hoses), vacuum, water, throttle cable (use one from a 240sx),exhaust , and intake.

[ibreakstuff]

Fuel

[ibreakstuff]

Vacuum

[ibreakstuff]

Cooling

[ibreakstuff]

Intake

[ibreakstuff]

Exhaust

Someone with this swap into a stock truck should have pictures of their exhaust setups. I'm running 3" stainless pipe through the torsion bar mounts.

[ibreakstuff]

Power steering

The power steering pump is on the complete other side of the motor from the KA. This sounds like it would be a problem but it works out to be relatively easy to solve.

Move your power steering reservoir to the driver's side. Buy some new low pressure line and fitting to connect the pump to the reservoir, to the steering gear box. ($7) You can modify the high pressure line with a plumbing flare tool (I'll post pics of this later). You do not need the pressure switch. It just revs the motor a little when you turn the wheel at idle.

[gear_grinder]

when you say "werid angle" on the engine mounts, do u mean the stock angle of the ka24e? I see that its tipped sligtly upwords twords the front of the engine bay, but would this really even matter other then clearance? and can you use the stock trans thats in your truck asuming its a ka24e-5spd manual-2wd truck? because if you could use the transmisson it would make the whole instalation prosses much easier. BTW write up looks good so far

[ibreakstuff]

I don't have pics of mine when it was mounted like this. I'm sure the motor will work like this, but it drove me a little nuts to have it pointing up like that.

[gear_grinder]

1. is that the only reason y you changed the mounts was because u didnt like the angle? 2. do you have any information on my trany question? 3. for the truck i'm planing on getting i dont know what year exactly, but it has the same grill style as yours. its ka24e-5spd-2x4-long box, normal cab. 4. And i would also like to know what kindof radiator u used in ure truck, it defenatly looks like it has better cooling then stock. i checked out the specs on a s13 sr20 rad and the dimentions are very close.

[isotope821]

I don't have pics of mine when it was mounted like this. I'm sure the motor will work like this, but it drove me a little nuts to have it pointing up like that.

ok so the stock motor mounts fit but at an angle that means the transmission is at an angle too right will this set up work? Hey how much for the motor mounts seriously willing to pay a deposit.

[gear_grinder]

bump my trans question ^^^

[ibreakstuff]

I've heard that you can swap the bellhousings to use the KA transmission, but I've never seen it done. The SR transmission shifts better anyways.