SR GURUS PLZZ!!!

[twotonedrift]

okay guys. im really needing some of yalls input on a few things. A few days ago my sr20det red top stopped running. it started running on 3 cylanders then cut off. i tried to start it a few times and it sounded like the starter went out. after a few more tries it cranked on 3 cylanders angain and i heard nothing but metal chatter. It didnt sound like a rod nock.

With that being said, im going to have to rebuild the motor asap. This is where i need some SR gurus... I plan on having a reputable machine shop asemble the motor and was going to order all of my nessasary parts through them as well. I read on here that a cosworth head gasket is the way to go. Does any body have any imput on what "YALL" would do. wut parts, ect. would you go with? Ive never had to do this so some support, opinions and feed back would be VERY VERY helpful. thanx

[Josh@NSP]

Cosworth gasket is definitely the way to go. Apexi is another good option. ARP head studs, ARP main studs if you end up taking the bottom end apart (I'm assuming you are). If you want to upgrade, I've had great success with eagle rods and mahle pistons. Wiseco pistons are good as well. Nissan original main and rod bearings, .std (standard) size if you don't have to machine the crank or you get a new one, otherwise make sure you specify a size for the bearings depending on the machine work. As far as headwork, make sure you take out the lifters and clean them and inspect for any of them that are collapsed. Stock valvetrain is ok, HKS cams are great. I've had a little trouble with Tomei cams making strange racket. Brian Crower valve springs and retainers are pretty decent and can be necessary if going with a 264 or higher cam. Rocker arm stoppers are good to install while it's apart as well but some people stray away from them. I've never had any issues with them and they seem to help with longevity, but that's a personal call. Hope this helps man, I build an SR about once a month. On my 6th year now so I should be able to help in this area!

Oh and one more thing, make a worthwhile investment and get a BRAND NEW OIL PUMP. You won't regret that.

[Lobo240sx]

Pretty much what was said at the above post. I'd go with a Tomei Head Gasket and Mazworkx head studs. They are basically machined ARP's to fit the Sr20det engine for more clamping power. I'm pushing 22psi on a T70 and haven't had any issues with the head leaking.

New oil pump, oil pan are very important in a rebuild. Check your cams for wear if you are using the stock cams. When replacing the cams or doing head work, you need to use some engine assembly lube so you won't have the cam chatter. It helps in the process for the cams to seat properly.

In your case, I'd get the block inspected for scored cylinder walls and crank. Even though you caught it early. That way you can get the proper size bore for your new pistons. Might need to go .20 over.

[twotonedrift]

guys, josh espescially...thank you! thats great info. ive been around nissan motors for quite some time but this is my first time having to get one rebuilt, due to the fact that i dont have all the nessasary spec tools to do so on my own. my next question to you is... would it not be okay to stay with stock pistons and rods? or do you absolutly recommend after market? ... assuming, of course, theres nothing wrong with the stock ones. and im glad ya'll said to get a new oil pump because i was debating on it. I also already have hks rocker arm stoppers, so im good on that. And nissan bearings are the way to go even compared to ACLs'? ill take your word on your experiance josh, so what you say is what ill probly go with...oh, and is it okay to use stock valve springs too? I imagine the machine shop will be able to configure all of this for me. i know ill be getting a ring job and new valve stem seals too. i just want a proper mild SR.

so other than "whatever broke in the motor that needs replacing" and the items ya'll listed, that should give me a good motor?
thanx again guys..

[Josh@NSP]

Stock pistons and rods are absolutely fine as long as you don't plan to go for a ton of power. I'm on all stock internals actually and pushing a daily driven 350whp setup. ACL bearings are equal to Nissan in my opinion, no better nor worse so that's your call entirely. Stock valve springs are also good as long as you run under a 264 cam. Anything 264 or higher tends to leave the spring too quickly for it's new duration so stiffer springs are recommended to avoid cam slap and rocker arm slip. Sounds like you are going for something more in my power range or lower, if so than all of your stock stuff will be fine. Just make sure you don't have any major damage to bottom end parts. I recently rebuilt an SR that went dead on cylinders #2 and #3, turns out the rocker arms slipped and broke into pieces, bottom end was fine. A much cheaper and easier fix aside from having to get bent valves replaced. This generally isn't the case though, #3 rod bearing gets very hot and low lubrication most often so knocks are generally in this region. Hopefully your damage isn't too bad, but either way it's repairable. Also, if you do end up having to get into the bottom end, the ARP main studs have to be shaved down in the back of the motor for clearance. If you do this, I can consult you on how to properly cut the metal. Good luck with everything!

P.S. - My shop is on facebook, /nsperformance1 <-- you should spread the word!

[twotonedrift]

again.. thanx alot, thats exactly what i wanted to hear! it just so happens that my power goal is exactly what you have. 350whp is what i want at maximum. but more importantly getting a healthy motor to daily on, takes priority. i know right off the back before my sr crapped out on me last week, i needed a ring job due to a slightly low compression on cylander 3. 185, 185, 155, and 175 were my numbers. so i will need my block torn in to anyway. Im begining to think that a rocker arm broke according to what you explained because one cylander went dead randomly and the motor cut off by itself after about 3 miniuts. ...im almost positive it wasnt a rod knock but rather coming from the head when i tried to start it. of course i immediatly shut it off and had it towed to the garage. Im real nervous something catastrophic happened to it, but i dont think so. im prepared to spend some $ at the machine shop. lol one thing that concerns me is getting the "main studs shaved"? never heard of doing that, i take it ill have to tell the shop that...?

To bad your not local, cause id have you build mine in a HEART BEAT.lol

[twotonedrift]

So recap on what to do josh.. ill be getting ARP head studs, main studs, full gasket set (with cosworth head gasket), new ACL main and rod bearings. i have to seprately buy piston rings correct? (dumb question, i know ). valve stem seals come with the gasket set, NEW OIL PUMP like u said, anddd whatever part broke.haha i think that covers it..... and of course the machine work and them assembling it. sounds pretty fresh right? what do you have in yours. i basicly want to duplicate your motor as much as i can during this process.

motor goes to the machine shop this week. I realy appreciate the advice man..

[twotonedrift]

......well i got to pulling my motor as planned, and i saw the worse thing man. there was a hole in the block. ... you know the best place to get another sr red top?? plez help

[Lobo240sx]

nc-sr20det-cp-pistons-block-t558308.html

You can get a block cheap. I got my spare low compression long block for like $400. Shipping is another story.

Try these guys. They put it on a pallet and tied it down.

http://www.engineshipping.com/

[Josh@NSP]

Hey man, sorry to hear about the hole. I just got back in town so I apologize for the delayed response. I have some spare blocks sitting at my shop, if you pm me a shipping location I can figure up a price for you. Otherwise you can go with lobo's idea.

[Josh@NSP]

I've also got spare motors, full swaps etc. If you are interested in any of these just let me know.

[twotonedrift]

go out of town again josh?lol i PM'd you....

[Josh@NSP]

Sorry bud! Info sent.