Hey guys.. the car is still comming together pretty well.. not quite all back together but I still have one pressing problem...before the car would bog incredibly bad and could barely idle.... I ****ed with the timing and reconnected all the vaccuum lines.. now i have 19-22 hgp or wutever it is at idle like your suppose to as opposed to the 13-15 I had before.... and the car ran well with the timing extremely advanced.. like at least 40 degrees right of the last timing mark.
I drove it to a shop in Fresno to have them set the timing properly and while sitting there we noticed the car sounded like it was missing... turns out I had the 4th cylinder's injector plug on upside down... doh. So now its running on all 4, but he set the timing to the proper timing mark.. and just like it did the night before when I tried to do it... the timing would jump around like crazy the closer to the second mark from the right that u got...
now the car stutters bad at idle and has horrible response when u hit the pedal sometimes it takes like a second to respond.. sometimes its instant. The car also starts to backfire after it hits boost.. it doesn't do it every time but it still does it..... the vaccuum is still sitting pretty at like 18-22 at idle so I don't think I have a vaccuum leak.. any suggestions??? I'm putting the stereo back in tonight... tomorrow I'm going to work on getting the front bumper back on and I'd like to have the car running properly by then.
Sr Bogs at proper Timing?
I have had timing problems that sound very similar to yours. Your gun is not reading the timing correctly. Did you follow the FSM procedures exactly? - rev engine to 2k for 2 minutes then race it 2-3 times w/o load? did you unplug your TPS? Where are you taking the reading from - coilpack?, black timing loop?
I am almost 100% sure it is your timing. Most likely where it is running correctly i.e. 40deg right is the correct timing. Tha t is where mine was reading when I hadn't followed the FSM procedures exactly.
I am almost 100% sure it is your timing. Most likely where it is running correctly i.e. 40deg right is the correct timing. Tha t is where mine was reading when I hadn't followed the FSM procedures exactly.
-
Luke
The procedure is key. I had the same problems as you, I only disconnected the tps. When I reved it the 3 times and then set it, everything worked fine. Do what SRdave240 suggestedBryson wrote:no when I did it myself we warmed up teh car for two minuets then unplugged the TPS and put the timing light hook on the "-" wire on the first coilpack. I didn't rev it to 2k or race it 3 times.
what happens if u dont even disconnect the TPS....we never did when we set the timing and now its set to supposedly 12 deg above TDC.....I dont have have boggin probs but i dont make as much power as i should and my header will start glowing orange just fromi an idling warmup....(fuel igniting late and burning in the mani? retarded timing?).....Im waitin to get ahold of a timing light and do it to the T from the FSM and see where that gets us
SRdave240 wrote:I have had timing problems that sound very similar to yours. Your gun is not reading the timing correctly. Did you follow the FSM procedures exactly? - rev engine to 2k for 2 minutes then race it 2-3 times w/o load? did you unplug your TPS? Where are you taking the reading from - coilpack?, black timing loop?
:withstup
Check the FSM and make sure that you follow it EXACTLY. Make sure that you take the reading from the timing loop. Doing it from the coilpack SOMETIMES produces strange results.
Before I had an FSM, a VERY helpful guy named Steve from the Fresh Alloy forums hooked me up with some really good knowledge.
See below for how to adjust the TPS and set your timing CORRECTLY.
The TPS if you are standing in front of your sr20det engine is on the right hand side of the throttle body down and back, its bolted to it when the throttle cable moves the throttle plate it also moves the tps on the opposite side (towards the engine) on the throttle body, its a small about 2 inch by 2 inch black plastic sensor that plugs into a sensor on your harness its easy to notic looks like a fat cross. You need a 7 mm open end wrench and a volt meter (if you have no afc) just plug the volt meter into ground on the black line and signal on the tps, i dont rember the wire colors off the top of my head but one pin on the sensor plug will read constant 5 volts or so, one is ground and one is sensor signal, just hop around until you find the right pin. (BTW These are simply the steps to readjust the tps voltage alone). Now you need to losen the two bolts holding the tps to the throttle body just slightly at wot or the throttle plate all the way open you should see aroun 4.2-4.8 volts all the way closed you should see around 0.48 volts - 0.50 when the plate is all the way closed. Now tighten it down, the car does not need to be runing for this simply have the key all the way in the on position.
NOW YOU DO THE PRIOR STEP AFTER YOU SET THE BASE TIMING...
To set the base timng unplug the tps first well the car is off. Then get a 12 mm on a socket with an externsion and loosen the cas bolts slightly. then get a cheap timing gun/light and clamp the power and ground cables to the battery and the signal clamp to the back of the coil pack harness or the diagnostic line, its a thick black line that goes in a loop at the very back of the harness towards the firewall (you are doing all of this while the car is off). Now start the car if the car doesnt start it means you set the base cas setting on the cam and cas wrong (see heavythrottle.coms write up on setting the cas base setting which requirs setting the car to tdc and setting the cas up by taking off the valve cover). If the car fires up run around to the front of the engine bay and adjust the idle adjustment screw at the bottom of the throttle body until the car idles between 825 rpms and 895 rpms , i like 850 for base idle and the fsm reccomedns 850-900 rpms. Now check the tach to make sure your right then turn the cas while aiming the timing light at the crank shaft until you see the big notch sticking out of the timing cover line up with the second white notch from the exst side on the crank pulley , i belive there are 8 total get the second one from the right going left. Line it up with the notch and tighten the cas down.
Now your base timing is set now turn the car off...plug in the tps and do the step above that i have outlined for the tps base setting
Youll find RPSport.net actually cares about the little guy, watch your *** out there most other shops are just there to rape you...
-steve
http://www.RPSport.net (562) 243-2793
See below for how to adjust the TPS and set your timing CORRECTLY.
The TPS if you are standing in front of your sr20det engine is on the right hand side of the throttle body down and back, its bolted to it when the throttle cable moves the throttle plate it also moves the tps on the opposite side (towards the engine) on the throttle body, its a small about 2 inch by 2 inch black plastic sensor that plugs into a sensor on your harness its easy to notic looks like a fat cross. You need a 7 mm open end wrench and a volt meter (if you have no afc) just plug the volt meter into ground on the black line and signal on the tps, i dont rember the wire colors off the top of my head but one pin on the sensor plug will read constant 5 volts or so, one is ground and one is sensor signal, just hop around until you find the right pin. (BTW These are simply the steps to readjust the tps voltage alone). Now you need to losen the two bolts holding the tps to the throttle body just slightly at wot or the throttle plate all the way open you should see aroun 4.2-4.8 volts all the way closed you should see around 0.48 volts - 0.50 when the plate is all the way closed. Now tighten it down, the car does not need to be runing for this simply have the key all the way in the on position.
NOW YOU DO THE PRIOR STEP AFTER YOU SET THE BASE TIMING...
To set the base timng unplug the tps first well the car is off. Then get a 12 mm on a socket with an externsion and loosen the cas bolts slightly. then get a cheap timing gun/light and clamp the power and ground cables to the battery and the signal clamp to the back of the coil pack harness or the diagnostic line, its a thick black line that goes in a loop at the very back of the harness towards the firewall (you are doing all of this while the car is off). Now start the car if the car doesnt start it means you set the base cas setting on the cam and cas wrong (see heavythrottle.coms write up on setting the cas base setting which requirs setting the car to tdc and setting the cas up by taking off the valve cover). If the car fires up run around to the front of the engine bay and adjust the idle adjustment screw at the bottom of the throttle body until the car idles between 825 rpms and 895 rpms , i like 850 for base idle and the fsm reccomedns 850-900 rpms. Now check the tach to make sure your right then turn the cas while aiming the timing light at the crank shaft until you see the big notch sticking out of the timing cover line up with the second white notch from the exst side on the crank pulley , i belive there are 8 total get the second one from the right going left. Line it up with the notch and tighten the cas down.
Now your base timing is set now turn the car off...plug in the tps and do the step above that i have outlined for the tps base setting
Youll find RPSport.net actually cares about the little guy, watch your *** out there most other shops are just there to rape you...
-steve
http://www.RPSport.net (562) 243-2793
93Niss240 wrote:what happens if u dont even disconnect the TPS....we never did when we set the timing and now its set to supposedly 12 deg above TDC.....I dont have have boggin probs but i dont make as much power as i should and my header will start glowing orange just fromi an idling warmup....(fuel igniting late and burning in the mani? retarded timing?).....Im waitin to get ahold of a timing light and do it to the T from the FSM and see where that gets us
my aftermarket manifold starting glowing orange too after about 5min, I thought my turbo was ****ed but i took it off and its still in brand new condition, spins freely and has no shaft play(the turbo is a brand new fpt28) Im thinking its my timing because i just got the car running and have not yet timed it yet.
well tonite we did the timing according to the SR FSM and my timing was 3 degrees advanced as opposed to 15 degrees advanced....so we cranked it up to 15 and almost instantaniously the manifold stopped glowing orange then i went in to see my EGT's jumped down approx. 200 C at idle!!!!The heat is down and she pulls like a MOFO.....we turned up the Fuel pressure about 3 psi just incase i leaned out with adding the timing/power....but now its running rich (i noticed on the ride home)....ill just put it back to 50psi static tomorrow.....but damn shes running alot better
Phax wrote:Before I had an FSM, a VERY helpful guy named Steve from the Fresh Alloy forums hooked me up with some really good knowledge.
See below for how to adjust the TPS and set your timing CORRECTLY.
The TPS if you are standing in front of your sr20det engine is on the right hand side of the throttle body down and back, its bolted to it when the throttle cable moves the throttle plate it also moves the tps on the opposite side (towards the engine) on the throttle body, its a small about 2 inch by 2 inch black plastic sensor that plugs into a sensor on your harness its easy to notic looks like a fat cross. You need a 7 mm open end wrench and a volt meter (if you have no afc) just plug the volt meter into ground on the black line and signal on the tps, i dont rember the wire colors off the top of my head but one pin on the sensor plug will read constant 5 volts or so, one is ground and one is sensor signal, just hop around until you find the right pin. (BTW These are simply the steps to readjust the tps voltage alone). Now you need to losen the two bolts holding the tps to the throttle body just slightly at wot or the throttle plate all the way open you should see aroun 4.2-4.8 volts all the way closed you should see around 0.48 volts - 0.50 when the plate is all the way closed. Now tighten it down, the car does not need to be runing for this simply have the key all the way in the on position.
NOW YOU DO THE PRIOR STEP AFTER YOU SET THE BASE TIMING...
To set the base timng unplug the tps first well the car is off. Then get a 12 mm on a socket with an externsion and loosen the cas bolts slightly. then get a cheap timing gun/light and clamp the power and ground cables to the battery and the signal clamp to the back of the coil pack harness or the diagnostic line, its a thick black line that goes in a loop at the very back of the harness towards the firewall (you are doing all of this while the car is off). Now start the car if the car doesnt start it means you set the base cas setting on the cam and cas wrong (see heavythrottle.coms write up on setting the cas base setting which requirs setting the car to tdc and setting the cas up by taking off the valve cover). If the car fires up run around to the front of the engine bay and adjust the idle adjustment screw at the bottom of the throttle body until the car idles between 825 rpms and 895 rpms , i like 850 for base idle and the fsm reccomedns 850-900 rpms. Now check the tach to make sure your right then turn the cas while aiming the timing light at the crank shaft until you see the big notch sticking out of the timing cover line up with the second white notch from the exst side on the crank pulley , i belive there are 8 total get the second one from the right going left. Line it up with the notch and tighten the cas down.
Now your base timing is set now turn the car off...plug in the tps and do the step above that i have outlined for the tps base setting
Youll find RPSport.net actually cares about the little guy, watch your *** out there most other shops are just there to rape you...
-steve
http://www.RPSport.net (562) 243-2793
I'd have to vouch for Steve from RPSport.net as well. Great guy, honest, helpful, and very friendly. :ylsuper