SR acting up!!! can't figure it out!!

[ScuffedUp240]

Hey, i'm a fairly old user that never had anything to post, had to re-register cause lost old user and pass.. but anyways.. here's my situation, i have a '92 240sx with a SR20det redtop swap, originally i took my car to a shop that said they could do it, they got the front clip order picked it up, pulled my old KA and thats when this story turns into a nightmare.

they didn't know how to do the swap, they set the engine in as is, so that the EGR tube going to the Turbo outlet elbow was crushed against my steering colum, lost my stock side mount intercooler piping and intake piping, so long story short, i towed my car home and did the swap myself.. now before i get into my current issue, let me list what i've done to the car, now i'm no ace car mechanic, my expertise lies in helicopters, but i know the basics..

RedTop swap
ISIS bottom mount turbo manifold
ISIS 303 series turbo Compressor side 3" inlet Exhaust side 0.64 A/R turbine housing (t28 equivalent)
ISIS SS turbo lines
ISIS FMIC
Apexi power intake
Tial Q BOV (recirc)
ISIS adjustable FPR
300zx fuel filter
Walbro 255 pump
Circut Sports 3" downpipe
Apexi N1 3" cat back
custom 3" test pipe
SR20det MAF
ISIS pulleys

that should be all thats relevent to my issue. all the wiring in the car has been done by me and i'm fairly confident it is not my wiring (as i already figured out my wiring faults)
ECU was fried, had to EBAY a new one, issue #1 solved, now my car runs like a champ, idle is steady at 1100 rpms, in neutral i can rev to the rev limiter, but once i get the car underload, 1st gear i have no issues, but 2nd-4th (as high as i got it) right at 4k rpm, it feels like i'm hitting a wall.. (can't say wheather its fuel cut/boost leak/speed/rev limiter) it feels like all of those things, i have to back off the throttle or it will just sputter. i am not running any sort of tune, injectors are stock (i believe) transmission should have all the SR sensors(don't think the KA transmission would mate to the SR, though i wouldn't have put it past that shop to do) i am running out of ideas as to what is going on.. i can't hook up the consult port to read codes, as i don't know the wiring for it (and couldn't find anything on it). Please if anyone has had a similiar problem, or has any clue as to what is going on, i'd appreciate the help

[homeslicej2]

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/sr_setu ... nsult_port

Use this website (australian guys) to find the consult wiring (it's only 5 wires). Also there are some set-up tips. Use these to troubleshoot your TPS, timing, etc. You need to get an FSM as well. Check out the RWD-SR facts page for a link. Check over all of your wiring, vacuum/boost connections, etc. as well.

[s13drifter88]

sounds like your flaming out. regap your plugs and gap them to .030 wiring is just color matching the dash plug (for DOHC cluster), extending the maf plug and the O2 plug. thats it. try plugs. could be maf but i doubt it but if so use a SOHC ka maf.

[PyR0NiAk]

These 2 seem to have everything there for you. As far as the transmission, though. First, there's no way it would cause that. 2nd, yes, a KA transmission can bolt to an SR if you swap the bell housing from an SR transmission.

[ScuffedUp240]

ok, so i tried gapping the plugs down from a .34 to a .30 and found the ground off the coil packs was completely off, apparently i lost the bolt. so with the car gapped at .30 and that ground back in, took a test drive with it again, still dumping at 4k, but not as bad as before.. starting to wonder if it might be a bad main ground? or if in fact its the TPS, i checked the timing months ago, and believe the timing was good.. won't be able to check the TPS till this weekend when i can get my multimeter back from a friend who is rebuilding his supra.. does this shed anymore light on the issue to anyone? my mind is too fried after countless weeks banging my head against a concrete wall..

Oh by the way, feels like a ... ugh how to explain this.. i guess closest i could say is a rapid misfire? lots of popping when boost kicks in, no boost leaks that i could find, no vacuum leaks, will double check wiring again this weekend.. Please someone have a similar issue that got cured!

[ScuffedUp240]

heres a shot of the engine, and yes, the recirc hose is connected and all clamps are on piping.

[PyR0NiAk]

I can't see the pics because I'm at work, but double check for boost leaks... (It'll take a prettyserious one to cause you to fall on your face at 4k)

[ScuffedUp240]

ok, so i'm going to clean the MAF this weekend, and most likely rewire since i'm gonna wire up the consult port, i'll let you all know how it turns out..

can anyone tell me what the ideal fuel pressure should be at?

[s13drifter88]

just curious but have you replaced the plugs. if regapping them helped that could be telling you that its an ignition problem. if theyre toast gapping will reduce the severity of the prob but may not solve it entirely

[PyR0NiAk]

can anyone tell me what the ideal fuel pressure should be at?

43.5 when the vacuum line is not attached. (Obviously, hook the vacuum line back up after you check the pressure)

[ScuffedUp240]

ok, so update as follows, since i hate reading posts that people recommend stuff to check and no one ever follows up to let everyone know what worked.. so here it is.. S13drifter88 yes they were brand new plugs..
So heres what i found, i think my multi-meter is shot cause i couldn't get any readings at the TPS, but i disconnected it to check, and idle was way up (at 1900rpm), car drove the same, plugged back in, idle back down to 900rpm. (didn't solve it, but kinda eliminated that idea)
got a wild hair up my butt and rechecked for the 4th time, all my intercooler clamps (good thing too). I had forgotten that on the intake side, i had 3 pipes going from the intercooler instead of just 2 like the hot side, i never checked the one section inside the front fender well.. that was the loose one, the section inside the fender had popped out of the coupler to the intake causing me to dump alot of airflow, which in turn probably caused my ECU to run in safe mode, just like a faulty MAF or no maf would, boost would run up to 5psi then dump it out the coupler.. tightened that one up after repositioning the piping again, and BAM! now she's boosting to 10psi easy, and revving all the way thru the power band.. loving it!. again thanks for the input and the suggestions.

[s13drifter88]

no prob man. boost leaks kill

[PyR0NiAk]

Glad you found it.. :dblthumb Boost leaks tend to be the most common issues with newer swaps.