Squealing Noise from front end, 4x4 D21

[Zion8561]

Has anyone had this problem before (1997 4x4 ~150K Miles):

I get a squaling/squeaking noise coming from the front end when I am traveling at low speeds (10-25 MPH). It usually only does this after I have been driving a while.

Could it just be the CV axle boots or is it something more serious such as bearings. It is not the brakes and does not sound like old pads, sounds more like a rubber type of squeal.

Thanks for any help.Jon

[Big-Bird]

If the noise has a repetative pattern it's most likely a bearing noise. Take them apart and repack the bearings. Based on your milage you are due anyway.

That is to say if you are sure the front brakes have been ruled out as a possible source

Click this link to look at the exploded diagram of a D21's front knuckle/bearing assembly.

[Zion8561]

I am about 95% sure that it is not the brakes. The noise happens when I am not breaking at all, but only during certain speeds. It seems to be getting worse. And tends to happen more under load.

From reading the other thread I think I am going to need new grease seals, and a brass drift. Will I need to take off the entire knuckle also to get to the "needle bearing"??

How do I know if I should repack vs. replace?

Thank you, Jon

[KB Services]

You're in luck you don't have to pull knuckle to do the inner and outer bearings. Pull the wheel, pull the caliper and brake pads,remove the hubs and clips holding the the guts to the shaft. To get the bearings out you can use a flat blade to remove them and use the old bearing race to help set the new ones. By the way expect to pay 100 bucks per side for bearings from Nissan. Careful the new seal has a plastic outer race don't break it when you tap it in place. Rubber gloves or lots of hand cleaner plus a can of grease. Best to watch for is the retainer on the wheel bearing. The two screws holding it in place are fun to tension, and to locate the holes to lock it back into place. Before final reassembly put the wheel back on the check play. Otherwise you have to tear all back down to readjust. Should take a couple of hours. I just did mine.Not that tuff. You can do it.

[Big-Bird]

KB had the same questions about the bearings and I already answered them on his posting. But if that needle bearing needs to be replaced it is easier to do it with the vehicle in the air or just remove the knuckle to do the R&R job.

IF the needle bearing is ok ( spins easy with a finger and feels ok ) then KB is repeating what I told him. There is no need to remove the knuckle to repack or relace the the rotorhub bearings.

As for deciding if you need new bearings...you won't be able to tell that until you get hub apart and wash up all the parts.

Look for signs of pitting on the rollers, rust inside the rotor hub, bearing has blue or black burn marks on the steel rollers. Cracks in the cage, scoring in the race, the bearing feels like it's got sand in it when you spin it by hand...even after you cleaned it. Then yep, you need to replace in these instances.

[KB Services]

Big Bird Thanks for your help the trucks much quiter now. No more grinding noise.

[Zion8561]

I was just reviewing the FSM, and they reference a two-pronged tool to remove and reinstall/torque the wheel bearing lock nut. Is this something Nissan specific, or would the Auto Zone tool program have something that would work?

And a question on "preload adjustment." Looks like you just torque the bearing lock nut to seat the bearing, then loosen it and barely snug it up to keep it in position?

When you purchase the wheel bearings, does that include the outer race?

Thanks, it is my first time messing with wheel bearings.

[Big-Bird]

The tool you are looking for 'resembles' a deep socket with 2-4 pins on the end instead of an actual 6 or 12 point end on it.

You use the spanner socket, which is the name I beleive because the pins span the distance between the holes in the 'nut'.

Yes you do need to torque the bearings for pre-load purposes and yes you do back it off to release the pressure slightly. The amount of torque you apply at the end is done by 'feel'. It's generally done with the wheel bolted back on with 2 wheel nuts, that way you can feel rotational resistance and wheel bearing side-to-side play. You want as little bearing play as possible without impairing the wheels ability to roll freely. You should be able to rotate the wheel with only a very small amount of resistance.

New bearings do come with new outer races. To remove a race you need a ball peen hammer, safety glasses and most importantly a brass drift or brass punch with a flat end on it.

Tap out an old race a little bit each time at opposing positions with firm strikes (don't beat the snot out of it) so you don't jam the old race and damage the rotor hub. I should post a how to because this topic comes up regularly. I am sure the Haynes manual shows how to do this.

[Zion8561]

I can't find the wheel bearing retaining nut tool anywhere...I tried Auto Zone, Advanced, also Harbor frieght. Harbor frieght has a tool used on grinders that they think might work, they call it an adjustable pin wrench.

I got the old one off using two screwdrivers in the holes, but now I need something to do the initial torque.

Edit: Just found this socket, it says it works on pathfinder, frontier, xterra, but does not list the Hardbody. http://www.autopart.com/tools/...0.htm

Also found this write up on Google, which leads me to believe they are all the same and the tool will work on the Hardbody. http://www.rkrenn.com/xterra/h...g.htm
Modified by Zion8561 at 4:11 PM 6/21/2007

[Desert Rat]

You don't need the tool. A philips screwdriver in one of the holes and tapping from a deadblow hammer will get the nut loose and retighten it.

The correct tool is called a spanner wrench. I know a lot of guys with 4x4's and have torn down the front ends, and nobody I know owns the correct tool.

I just repacked the bearings on my Xterra a few weeks ago with the method I just described.

Good luck.

[Big-Bird]

You can also use a pair of allan wrenches on opposing holes and use a screw driver like a lever and undo it that way, but using this method for the reassembly (IE the pre-load torque) will be a best guess. I am comfortable doing it this way myself and so is the Rat with his method but I take no responsibility if you have trouble later on using these alternative methods.

[Zion8561]

Thanks for the help! I changed the inner and outer bearings and the noise is gone. Waited a while to post until I had some miles on it after changing the bearings. I was not sure if problems would show up right away if I installed anything wrong. I am trying to drive it as much as possible to check it out because I have to drive it 5 hours away this week and will see some 4X4 action there.

The old bearing races were pitted and had some linear scratching, bearings were a little loose in the cage. The grease seals were totalled also. I think it cost me around $250 total including OEM bearings and seals, grease, brake cleaner, and brass punches.

I was not sure how much grease to put back in when repacking. I packed the new bearings with grease, then I packed grease in the hub between the inner and outer races, and then more on the outside when the bearings went in. I basically filled all open areas with grease, but did not want to over fill and cause the seals to go out.

I also cleaned the manual hub clutch and repacked that while I was in there.

I bought the socket I mentioned in my post above, worth the $15-20 so I know it is torqued to spec.

[Big-Bird]

Glad we were able to help. I am going to post a how to article in the future when I redo my driver's side hub assembly. Complete rebuild with all the steps.

[NM50]

There is a shortcut in the wheepack proceeedure.the caliper and torque members can stay in the vehicle as well as the rotor.pull the bolts out of the rotors and pull off the hubs only. Those grease seals are notorious for squeaking.