SQUEAKY SR ISN't BELT WHAT IS IT???

[Gmans13]

Squeaky SR!!! WHAT IS IT???? Hello again everyone. I got my engine running the other day (w out the exhaust because I need the down pipe flange welded on.) and last night I took my car too drop it off at the shop that was going to do my welding and also align my front end. But anywase the car drove fine the whole way down their (except for the idle problem) when I got to the shop I let it die one me when I was shifting to reverse to back in to a space. When I started it back up I herd the a very loud squeaking noise that I had herd before when I ran the engine but only if I let it allmost die. It didn't sound very nice so I just decided to push it in the space and worrie about it the today. I had a look at it today and started her back up breifly and still the same LOUD squeak. I forgot to mention that the squeak will go away if I rev the engine over 2500 rpm or so. If some one could help me out that would be totally sick! Thanks I allready posted this:I tried lubing the only belt I have on the engine and it still sounds the same. The sound is more of a metalic squeal than a rubber squeak. Any other ideas guys? I'm worried about my baby

[themadscientist]

you lubed a belt? wrong!! :slapIt is likely a belt. if they are not replace them or at least try tightening them.

[Gmans13]

I lubed it with stuff that is made for belts but I'll try taking the belt off tomorrow and running it. I'll let you know what happens.

[Gmans13]

PS I just don't want to screw up my engine by running it too much if there is something really wrong with it.

[yellow_jacket]

Try taking the belt completely off and see if it still does it. Are yo sure all of the pulleys are tight? Usually spueeks are belts or something related.

[chezina]

Take off the alternator belt and there's no noise at all, cause the engine won't run without alternator.

[yellow_jacket]

The engine will run without the alternator. The motor couldn't care less if the alternator is there as long as the battery is good and charged up.

[Onizuka]

yeah definatly, i threw all of my belts at once one time and my car drove fine and dandy, just had a bunch of red lights going off.

[Gmans13]

OK I took all the belts off and the squeak is still there. I sprayed wd40 behind the crank pulley and tried to take that off but....that 27mm is a mission itself. What else could it be. Pressure plate? Flywheel? it only squeaks in 1 little spot when I turn the engine over with a wrench but I can't tell if it is comming from the front pulley or the back side of the engine.

[yellow_jacket]

It sounds like something you are going to have to figure out on your own. It's just too specific to diagnose on the web. Especially if you can't even tell if it's coming from the front or the back of the motor.

[themadscientist]

Yeah, this is now sounding like something serious. If you are not certain of your skills take it to a reputable shop. It could be something stupid but if it isn't you will thank yourself.

[Gmans13]

If any one is still looking at this thread...I figured out my problem and it isn't lookin so hot. I pulled the valve cover and the cams were dry as a bone. I removed the cams to have a look and it is looking like I am going to need some new cams+and the par that the cams roll on. I Also checked the bottom end to see if that was fried and fortuniatly the berrings and the crank looked ok. If any one can point me in the right direction of what I need to do to fix my engine " " " "

[yellow_jacket]

I think you are going to need to get someone else to look at this motor. I don't know how long you let the motor sit before you pulled the valve cover to look at the cams, but sounds like that is not the problem. If the cams weren't getting any oil then the lifters would be tapping like crazy. Not to mention the fact that you would probably have a rod knock.

I am not real sure what you are referring to as the part that the cams roll on, but if you are talking about the head, I am not sure that can be fixed meaning that if the bearings in the head are bad that the head is trashed.

You really need to get in contact with a good mechanic and also whoever you bought the engine from and notify them that you may have a bad one. Make sure you document everything!

[Gmans13]

How much would a whole head be?

[godspeed]

who did you buy it from?

[the_invisible]

Hey guys,

If the valvetrain is dry even after a few minutes of running, then I guess your motor is toast. As you have mentioned, the squeaking was caused by the lack of lubrication on the valve train. This is why most installers pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to let the ol circulate throughout the head before cranking the engine to life.

Also, I am wondering if there is a problem with oil circulation that led to this catastrophic event. I mean, most new cars come with dry valvetrain right? So oil is supposed to circulate itself when the engine is running?

BTW, thanks for all the info, I am looking foward to do mine soon.

[yellow_jacket]

Yep, there is supposed to be a low oil pressure light. I would suggest hooking up a mechanical gauge before you go overboard assuming there is no oil pressure.

If you truly did not have any oil pressure, you never would have made it all the way to the shop you drove it to. It just doesn't take that long for a motor to self destruct when they have no oil pressure.

[I H8 MYSELF]

SQUIRELS!!!!!! GET THEM OUT, THEY WILL GET HURT!!!!

[martin]

Did you bang out the dents in the oil pan, or replace it? It certainly sounds like oidl starvation to me, although as someone already mentioned it's surprising you made it to the shop.

-Martin

[Gmans13]

Like I said the bottom end of the engine dosen't look bad and also on another note. I disconnected the ignitor chip and cranked the engine over alot before I gave it life.

This is the link to the ebay auctuon that I got my engine from. Check it out... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...19283

[martin]

Did the engine come in the clip, or was it taken out and shipped as a engine set?Did you set teh engine on teh floor (sitting on teh oil pan0 at any point?

It doesn't take much to dent these oil pans and teh pickup is very close, so if it's dented at all it wil restrict oil flow.

When you cranked the motor, did you observe the oil light on the dash go out, or see oil pressure on a mechanical gauge, or are you just assuming you had cranked it enough to get oil pressure?

It really sounds like you have no oil pressure and the most obvious cause of that is the oil pan being dented.

You say that you pulled the oil pan and looked at the bearings. Did you pull off bearing caps to look at them?

I'm not trying to be ignorant, but do you know what you are looking for? If you didn't pull the caps there's no way you can tell that they are good or bad.

Have you contacted the seller to tell them of the grief you are having? I'm quite suer they will try to blame you. You need to be prepared to defend your startup proceedure... if you did it right.

-Martin.

[Gmans13]

I did pull the caps and the they seemed to be fine

[martin]

Hey I'm trying to help you out... but one answer to 7 or 8 questions doesn't give me anything to go on. Good luck!

-Martin.

[the_invisible]

Martin, you pointed some very good suggestions and asked some crucial questions. That was nice. But come on, give the poor fellow a break. He's probably worrying about his motor right now.

hey, Gmans13, can you keep us updated on what is going on with your motor? Have you tried to run it lately? How is it?

There is a possibility that your engine is still alive and the damage is not severe enough to force you into a rebuild. Maybe you can try taking it apart and see how it looks. Perhaps, get a valve train upgrade.

For sure, check your oil pan.

[martin]

Martin, you pointed some very good suggestions and asked some crucial questions. That was nice. But come on, give the poor fellow a break. He's probably worrying about his motor right now.

hey, Gmans13, can you keep us updated on what is going on with your motor? Have you tried to run it lately? How is it?

There is a possibility that your engine is still alive and the damage is not severe enough to force you into a rebuild. Maybe you can try taking it apart and see how it looks. Perhaps, get a valve train upgrade.

For sure, check your oil pan.

I wasn't trying to be a prick, and I realize that he's probably concerned about his motor.. I would be! But I just told the truth, without the answers I can't help any more.

-Martin.

[Gmans13]

The engine came out of the clip as a set. I never set the engine directly on the oil pan.The oil pan did have a small dent in it when I got the engine and everyone that looked at it didn't think anything of it but...

Where could I find a valve terrain upgrade and arround how much would that run?

[martin]

The engine came out of the clip as a set. I never set the engine directly on the oil pan.The oil pan did have a small dent in it when I got the engine and everyone that looked at it didn't think anything of it but...

Where could I find a valve terrain upgrade and arround how much would that run?

Sorry, i don't know about valve train upgrades. I'd concentrate on what you have for now, and figuring out what caused the oil starvation.

If as you say the bearings are good but the cams are done, Then this indicates that you had oil pressure for the bearings, but for some reason it didn't make it to the head. I'd suggest that possible reasons might be a blockage in the oil gallery going to the head, or lack of oil pressure/volume so it couldn't make it to the head.

Blockage to the oil gallery seems very unlikely, but possible. Lack ofoil pressure still seems like teh most liely candidate. The head is the last place the oil gets to, furthest it has to travel, so low pressure, or low volume this is where it would be missing from first which might explain why teh bearings are OK (there was enough pressure/volume to oil the bearings, but not get to the head).

I almost hate to ask this question, but you did have enough oil in there?

You still didn't tell us if you verified oil pressure before you started it? When you drove it to the exhaust shop was the oil light on? Did it flicker even?

If I were you I'd be contacting the company I purchased it off. Did it come with some sort of warrenty? I'd work that angle before figuring out how to fix what I had.

If you have to fix what you have, buying an incomplete engine, maybe an auto, cheap, might be your best bet. Head, rods, pistons crank etc. are all the same, amd you might be able to seel teh stuff that you don't need, injectors, fuel rail, starter, alt, whatever to get back some of our money.

-Martin.

[yellow_jacket]

If the oil pan was dented you need to pull it and remove the dent. Apparently any dent in the pan will cause oil starvation, which sounds like the problem you are having.

Any way you can post pics of the cams and cam bearings so we can see them and hopefully tell you if they are done as you stated earlier. I am just having trouble believing that the valve train didn't make any noise yet you fried the top end.

You definetely need to put a gauge on it though and check the actual pressure.

[Gmans13]

does anyone know if the Sr20de and det heads are the same?

[the_invisible]

I dont believe they are. Also, FWD heads are slightly different from RWD heads.