This problem only happens after the motor has warmed up. I already swapped out the RED temperature sensor for my known good KA one and the problem remained. this stuttering happens with the tps on or off and O2 on or off. It WILL idle but if I let the revs drop from like 1800rpm, it'll stall. I have to feather it down to keep it idling.
The bugged out part was the temp sensor was dry and no coolant came out when I yanked it out of the sr. it seems there's an air pocket there so its probably not reading correctly. The single wire sender for the gauge works fine tho?? The hose to the t-stat is cool to the touch but I attribue that to my Koyo. Plugs are NGK Iridium's and gapped to ".030
gonna bleed that air pocket and check for codes tomorrow i guess.
Modified by Neil at 7:49 PM 12/26/2005
sputters at idle, misfires and bucks badly holding speed, boosts fine??
Re: (stevesrt4)
g thanks
forgot to mention... tps voltage was off, played with my throttle bracket and the sensor a little bit and got voltage to .50 closed. Goes up to like 3.6 then at the last 1/16th of an inch drops to 2.8... which means its fine as long as I don't floor it.
edit: FPR has its own vaccuum line. no t's anywhere in my system for anything. not sure if this is bad or what, but I dont think it would hurt and I wanted the bov to have its own line.
Modified by Neil at 4:23 AM 12/16/2005
forgot to mention... tps voltage was off, played with my throttle bracket and the sensor a little bit and got voltage to .50 closed. Goes up to like 3.6 then at the last 1/16th of an inch drops to 2.8... which means its fine as long as I don't floor it.
edit: FPR has its own vaccuum line. no t's anywhere in my system for anything. not sure if this is bad or what, but I dont think it would hurt and I wanted the bov to have its own line.
Modified by Neil at 4:23 AM 12/16/2005
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highmilehatch
- Posts: 299
- Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 7:16 am
Re: (Neil)
Set your timing per FSM. Check for codes.
Re: (highmilehatch)
15° (2nd from right) btdc w/ tps off, timing mark is rock steady. ECU code 55 (all happy). gonna check for a stuck injector 2morrow, just got back from king kong and im tired. that movie is pretty cheesey.
edit: The O2 sensor has a brown wire in the harness that runs up by the battery. The HT faq says hook the brown wire SR side up to any 12v switched source, Jeff at CIPMotorsports says he connects the brown wire to its brown counterpart on the KA plug and has no problems. so i did that.
Is there validity to HT's way?
edit: The O2 sensor has a brown wire in the harness that runs up by the battery. The HT faq says hook the brown wire SR side up to any 12v switched source, Jeff at CIPMotorsports says he connects the brown wire to its brown counterpart on the KA plug and has no problems. so i did that.
Is there validity to HT's way?
Re: (Neil)
Anybody?
changed my O2 sensor and problem remains... while changing it out i checked and the heater indeed gets 13.7v so that brown wire thing is out of the question. didn't drive it around but the idle is a little better. instead of bogging and revving, it'll hold a fairly smooth idle but randomly go up like 300rpm's or so once in a while. It will still stall if I flick the throttle though. The old O2 sensor had a thick layer of carbon on it indicating it's wwwaaayyy too rich.
Still havent checked for boost leaks but ive said before, it runs like a bear with no breakup thru the revs while being spirited. just cant hold a speed without violent bucking and idle is messed up.
at idle i don't think the turbo is even spinning fast enough to pressurize the intercooler system... i'd think there would be a vaccuum and a leak would let air in which would lean it out, not richen it.
Gas pressure on original FPR at idle is about 42, 43psi. Have yet to install my Walbro but I dont even think I need it anymore, as the oem pump is apparantly capable of supplying enough gas to make the level go down a quarter tank in like 25 miles.
Pulled the plugs off each injector and idle dropped proportionatly and sounded the same between all 4.
Remember when I set my TPS to .50v? went to double check that today and it's jumping around between .35 and .55 still sort of within range but i dont like how it moved on me. Holding a particular throttle position it moves around just as much of a range. Probly not the source of my problem but im still going to get a new one cuz i dont like it.
I haven't had the ability to swap out MAF sensors nor have i checked its voltage. What SHOULD it be reading?
changed my O2 sensor and problem remains... while changing it out i checked and the heater indeed gets 13.7v so that brown wire thing is out of the question. didn't drive it around but the idle is a little better. instead of bogging and revving, it'll hold a fairly smooth idle but randomly go up like 300rpm's or so once in a while. It will still stall if I flick the throttle though. The old O2 sensor had a thick layer of carbon on it indicating it's wwwaaayyy too rich.
Still havent checked for boost leaks but ive said before, it runs like a bear with no breakup thru the revs while being spirited. just cant hold a speed without violent bucking and idle is messed up.
at idle i don't think the turbo is even spinning fast enough to pressurize the intercooler system... i'd think there would be a vaccuum and a leak would let air in which would lean it out, not richen it.
Gas pressure on original FPR at idle is about 42, 43psi. Have yet to install my Walbro but I dont even think I need it anymore, as the oem pump is apparantly capable of supplying enough gas to make the level go down a quarter tank in like 25 miles.
Pulled the plugs off each injector and idle dropped proportionatly and sounded the same between all 4.
Remember when I set my TPS to .50v? went to double check that today and it's jumping around between .35 and .55 still sort of within range but i dont like how it moved on me. Holding a particular throttle position it moves around just as much of a range. Probly not the source of my problem but im still going to get a new one cuz i dont like it.
I haven't had the ability to swap out MAF sensors nor have i checked its voltage. What SHOULD it be reading?
My problem was the TPS.
It was reading variantly... I know all that's in a TPS is a potentiometer and I know theyre not supposed to fluctuate readings when in one position.
The TPS is sealed but I took it to my wire wheel on the bench grinder and wore away the top part of the casing... Once i had the POT exposed, i tilted it, and a drop of WATER came out.
I didnt expect to save the life of the tps but I smacked it against some paper towels and I got even more moisture out... then I spritzed it with brakleen, dropped a dab of ATF in there and now it works perfectly.
I was able to drive the car to work today with no problems. still doesnt idle quite right but its entirely drivable. Already got a new TPS coming from Enjuku to replace mine that's now open to the elements.
Modified by Neil at 7:41 PM 12/26/2005
It was reading variantly... I know all that's in a TPS is a potentiometer and I know theyre not supposed to fluctuate readings when in one position.
The TPS is sealed but I took it to my wire wheel on the bench grinder and wore away the top part of the casing... Once i had the POT exposed, i tilted it, and a drop of WATER came out.
I didnt expect to save the life of the tps but I smacked it against some paper towels and I got even more moisture out... then I spritzed it with brakleen, dropped a dab of ATF in there and now it works perfectly.
I was able to drive the car to work today with no problems. still doesnt idle quite right but its entirely drivable. Already got a new TPS coming from Enjuku to replace mine that's now open to the elements.
Modified by Neil at 7:41 PM 12/26/2005
Re: (Neil)
I hope someone gets some useful information out of this post.
My problem was NOT resolved... I found a couple more things.
Tested the O2 voltage at the ECU and it was seeing 0.0 volts! Turns out when I'd lengthened my O2 sensor wires, I didn't strip back enough of the sheilding around the sense wire and when I slid on the splice, the sheilding was touching it and essentially grounding out the O2 sensor. Since the ECU was seeing 0.0 volts it richened the mixture to compensate for that.
After that it ran and drove better, but it would still not even try to catch itself to idle if you dropped the throttle. My GReddy-RS bov wasnt even finger tight... so I turned it in a couple turns, locked it down and now idle is MUCH better. still wants to stall before finding an idle if you drop the pedal, but I think that just has everything to do w/ the fact it's vented.
My problem was NOT resolved... I found a couple more things.
Tested the O2 voltage at the ECU and it was seeing 0.0 volts! Turns out when I'd lengthened my O2 sensor wires, I didn't strip back enough of the sheilding around the sense wire and when I slid on the splice, the sheilding was touching it and essentially grounding out the O2 sensor. Since the ECU was seeing 0.0 volts it richened the mixture to compensate for that.
After that it ran and drove better, but it would still not even try to catch itself to idle if you dropped the throttle. My GReddy-RS bov wasnt even finger tight... so I turned it in a couple turns, locked it down and now idle is MUCH better. still wants to stall before finding an idle if you drop the pedal, but I think that just has everything to do w/ the fact it's vented.