Spun Bearing? Need Opinions

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
cadence_1
Posts: 47
Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 6:50 am

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Ok.. so I bought a motor off a buddy of mine that he ran in his own car for about a year or so.. He then got a differnt one and parked this one... It say for an additional year or so before I bought it and put it in my car.

I finally get everything together and start it yesturday(turned the car over without starting till oil pressure light went off) and I have what apprears to be a rod knock?

Now I have read that a lot of people have run these things straight out of oill.. it starts knocking and they put some oil in and be fine? I of course wasnt out of oil but do you think there could be any other explaination for this noise. It does very a bit w/rpm and I can really make it make the noise when I crack the throttle slightly from closed.. and I am really slightly. I tried making the noise and then pulling off individual cylinder coil packs to see if the noise went away and all though it may have gone down slightly it wasnt a definitive(I couldnt match the knocking point exactly while pulling off the coil)?

In any event I am just looking for anyones opinion on the subject.. your experiences with spun bearings or rod knocking? What you did? What you found out? It just bugs me that this motor ran fine a year ago and now all the sudden it has a rod knock the first time I start it up.

Finally if this is a case of some new bearings.. at the very least.. where is a good place to get some.. Is nissan the only place to look or should I bother with aftermarket and how much do bearings usually run for these cars?

Lots of questions.. I know.. I have searched.. but "spun bearing" and "rod knock" only return like 3 results..

thanks.

SOrry this post is so long.



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r34 gtr
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bearings for these cars are relatively cheap. 30 something for the rod bearings and another 30 something for the mains. you can get them at your local auto parts store, just say you have a 88 pulsar with the ca18de. if you are changing the bearings you may want to consider new rings and gaskets too, as a precautionary measure.

as for why its knocking, im not sure, probably just sitting for so long caused it. gunk settled down there or a bearing went dry from sitting and when you cranked it it decided not to turn. you might want to pull the oil pan first and see how things look before you go tearing it all apart.

Masterdebater
Posts: 523
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 11:02 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx coupe

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also, when u pulled the coil pack plugs, did the noise go away or no...

boost_boy
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Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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cadence_1 wrote:Ok.. so I bought a motor off a buddy of mine that he ran in his own car for about a year or so.. He then got a differnt one and parked this one... It say for an additional year or so before I bought it and put it in my car.

I finally get everything together and start it yesturday(turned the car over without starting till oil pressure light went off) and I have what apprears to be a rod knock?

Now I have read that a lot of people have run these things straight out of oill.. it starts knocking and they put some oil in and be fine? I of course wasnt out of oil but do you think there could be any other explaination for this noise. It does very a bit w/rpm and I can really make it make the noise when I crack the throttle slightly from closed.. and I am really slightly. I tried making the noise and then pulling off individual cylinder coil packs to see if the noise went away and all though it may have gone down slightly it wasnt a definitive(I couldnt match the knocking point exactly while pulling off the coil)?

In any event I am just looking for anyones opinion on the subject.. your experiences with spun bearings or rod knocking? What you did? What you found out? It just bugs me that this motor ran fine a year ago and now all the sudden it has a rod knock the first time I start it up.

Finally if this is a case of some new bearings.. at the very least.. where is a good place to get some.. Is nissan the only place to look or should I bother with aftermarket and how much do bearings usually run for these cars?

Lots of questions.. I know.. I have searched.. but "spun bearing" and "rod knock" only return like 3 results..

thanks.

SOrry this post is so long.
No offense to your friend or questioning his integrity, but from the way you explained it, even though you did everything right, this engine already had a problem with its bottom end. Just because it sat doesn't mean everything is supposed to stop functioning. You say you turned the engine over till the oil light went off, but it still knocked? That indicates to me that it was already screwed before you took ownership.

Dee

cadence_1
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 6:50 am

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See.. that was the thing.. I did this test twice.. the first time I pulled the coil packs the noise didnt go away... that is what confused me.. cause if you kill thel oad on the cylinder the noise shuold go away... or get much much quieter..

Then I tested it again about 20 minutes later.. and it seemed that the noise got quiter on NO.1.

The only problem with this test is that I was having a hard time keeping it at the "knocking rpm". So I wasnt sure it the sound was going away cause the RPM's were varying.. or if the sound was going away cause of the load being taken off the cylinder.

ANyway.. I will prolly just put new bearings in it. is that 30 bucks for all eight rod bearings, or just one set?

I know honda bearing are expensive as hell 25 bucks per set.


cadence_1
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 6:50 am

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I know where you are coming from.. but it isnt in my nature to accuse him of anything.. if its just a matter of putting new bearings in it.. then I would rather just do that then cause any conflict. If it gets to be $$ then we will prolly have to have a come to jesus meeting about some compensation..

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r34 gtr
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its like $35 for the whole set of rod bearings. try that and see how she does.

also, check out he thread entitled "rod knock or collapsed lifter?" and check out the video. does yours sound similar?

cadence_1
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I just saw that thread.. unfortunately I am at work and we have pretty strict streaming policies here.. so I am definately going to check it out later tonight and I will let you know.

thanks..

Is there a good tutorial somewhere on changing bearings.. what I shold check .. how to do it.. other than the FSM ofcourse..

boost_boy
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cadence_1 wrote:I just saw that thread.. unfortunately I am at work and we have pretty strict streaming policies here.. so I am definately going to check it out later tonight and I will let you know.

thanks..

Is there a good tutorial somewhere on changing bearings.. what I shold check .. how to do it.. other than the FSM ofcourse..
The best way to check or change your bearings is to remove the engine, put it on a stand and take your time with it. Sometimes you can get away with just changing the bearings, sometimes they may last a short while, sometimes they may last a long time, and then again, sometimes machining is the only option to correct out of spec components. If you pull the engine, may as well do it right and get everything refreshened. If you take the cheap route by just changing the bearings, good luck with that and I truly hope it lasts a long time for you.

Dee

ca18det240hatch
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Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 2:12 pm

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i can almost guarantee if its knocking, you are definately in it for machining. You are most likely going to need grinding/polishing/oversize bearing on whatever journal is bad. I havent pulled one that knocked apart yet that didnt have a effed journal. You may even be in it for a rod if it ate it that badly.

good luck, take the engine right out and take your time with it, if you put new bearings on a scratched journal, it will not last very long and youll be pulling it apart again.


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r34 gtr
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mine was hammering away like mad after a long interstate trip with no oil pressure. i rebuilt he whole thing bu could have easily gotten away with just swapping the bearings. if i wasnt knocking before i was removed, and now is, it might just be because i sat for so long, and bearings are all you need.

edit: sorry for the terrible spelling but i broke my left arm and typing fast one handed sucks.

boost_boy
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r34 gtr wrote: sorry for the terrible spelling but i broke my left arm and typing fast one handed sucks.
So you're a lefty, huh? I guess you could get hurt spanking the poor monkey with your left limb:rotflmao (just having some fun with you, Tim) .

Dee

cadence_1
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 6:50 am

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No.. mine doesnt sound that way.. well it kinda does.. but it isnt all the time like his is.. I would prolly say the tone of the noise is te same.. but mine only happens at certain RPMs and on Tip in.. if I hold the throttl eopen juuuuust slightly ... I am assuming it is because the ECU is throwing a $hit pot full of advance at it at the moment so load is increasing.. but it doesnt sound as bad as that video.. that sounds horrible..

I am just going to pull the pan and see what I see.. thanks guys. THIS SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had a sweet drive we are going to do nect weekend to and I really wanted to take the car.. oh well..


ca18det240hatch
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Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 2:12 pm

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once you get your oilpan off, look at the bottom of it for chunks of copper, etc. When i pulled mine apart (found out it was spun bearing, rod #3) there was assloads of copper in the bottom of the pan. I just took apart another one that spun a bearing because whoever replaced the rod bearings fukd it up, and there was very little copper, but that bearing was fubared beyond belief.

good luck with your engine man.


Masterdebater
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 11:02 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx coupe

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if u post a vid of what urs sounds like while pulling the plugs and running,i can help alot more.mine did this too, came out of a running car, prolly sat for a good few months and when i finally gotmine running in car, it had a terrible knock noise. i had to tow it home and see what i could do. i finally pulled the plugs and it didnt change the sound at all. so i pulled the motor and checked all over and sure enough it was just the flywheel bolts backing out almost completely and rattling the dust plate. so take it out and check those things. u can have an engine out and back in in just 3 hours so dont sweat it


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