sporadic key stuck issue: can't move it from 1 -> 0

[wwwrpm]

my key always works to start the car. but when turning it off, and trying to move the key from 1 to 0 sometimes it gets stuck. I can usually get it to turn, but it can take lots of time of feathering it, turning it back on and off a bunch.

It seems like there is a rough click from 1->0

The wheel lock is never the culprit, and I don't think it's the transmission (but stranger things have happened).

could it be old/worn down keys? If the cylinder or tumbler itself is going bad is there anything I can do to prolong it's life? Anyone fix something like this?

[04pathse]

Have you tried a little lube? most people use graphite lube but some say silicon spray lube and even wd-40 works for them

[mdmellott]

Could be the ignition switch itself. (opposite end of where you insert the key) There are several very small springs, rotary contacts, and contact points that get worn out over years or use. These pieces could be getting stuck because they are no longer staying in place within the switch. It's a simple fix to install a new switch. (just the rotary part at the opposite end of where you insert the key)

[wwwrpm]

Have you tried a little lube? most people use graphite lube but some say silicon spray lube and even wd-40 works for them

i hadn't, I just sprayed some silicon on the key and tested it a few times and it appears to be smooth now from 1->0. I'll see how it goes over the next few days and update.

Could be the ignition switch itself. (opposite end of where you insert the key) There are several very small springs, rotary contacts, and contact points that get worn out over years or use. These pieces could be getting stuck because they are no longer staying in place within the switch. It's a simple fix to install a new switch. (just the rotary part at the opposite end of where you insert the key)

does the ignition switch actually have any moving parts in it? I thought it was just the electronics to send signal to the ecu/starter and all the springs/etc were in the metal tumbler/cylinder part?

[VStar650CL]

does the ignition switch actually have any moving parts in it? I thought it was just the electronics to send signal to the ecu/starter and all the springs/etc were in the metal tumbler/cylinder part?

The Nissans with steel or lollipop keys all use rotary switches, no electronics.

[mdmellott]

Have you tried a little lube? most people use graphite lube but some say silicon spray lube and even wd-40 works for them

Good call ... and obvious to me now. Switch contact pieces binding up would have created more than just a key being stuck, unable to turn.

[Mike W.]

I agree it sounds more like the switch than the lock, but I'd use Triflow. Aside from practically being a shill for the product I think it's so good, it's exactly what the local locksmith uses in locks. WD-40 is almost more a solvent than a lube, graphite has it's fans, but really it's outdated but never use Lock Ease, according to my locksmith it's the absolute worst thing you can use.

[wwwrpm]

after a few starts today and yesterday the problem happened, but now with silicon lube on it i was able to barely jiggle it and it slid from 1 -> 0

[AlanAZ]

I used 3-in-One "Lock Dry Lube" on a lock that was basically seized, and I thought would need replacing. It amazingly freed it up, and has worked well ever since.

[Rogue One]

could it be old/worn down keys?

Quite possibly. Your vehicle is 20 years old with over 300k miles on it. Let's rule out the obvious first.

How many keys do you have? If more than one, do the other keys exhibit the same problem?

If you're down to one key, there's a strong possibility that it's worn down. Copying the current one won't solve the problem (if this is what it is), so I'd have the local dealership cut a new one based of the car's info.

[wwwrpm]

Just drove it for 45 minutes and had some non-catastrophic transmission issues but when I parked, I put it in park and couldn't get the key from 1 --> 0. I tried moving it on plane with the teeth, jiggled it gently, on and off, put it into drive and then back to park, but couldn't get it to 0 (and out). I ended up just leaving the key in the ignition to make an appointment, hope the battery doesnt die since it's on 1.

1) does anyone know how long you can leave the key in @ position 1 before a full battery will drain? I'd test the draw myself but don't have my multimeter with me

2) looks like it is likely the switch assembly that is failing, but I'm still suspicious about the transmission..

[VStar650CL]

2) looks like it is likely the switch assembly that is failing, but I'm still suspicious about the transmission.

You can check the switch vs the cylinder easily by removing the switch from the back of the cylinder (usually 2 small phillips heads) and turning it manually with a screwdriver. If it works smoothly then it's fine and your problem is elsewhere.

[VStar650CL]

I just checked the ESM and your lock cylinder has a key interlock cable running from the cylinder to the shifter. It's entirely possible the cable or shifter is causing the problem and not the cylinder.

[wwwrpm]

Ok saga continues

I took the switch off the back of the cylinder. With the key in the ignition i used a screwdriver to turn the switch and start the car and then back to 0, I did this multiple times, shifting from P to D and back:

1) the lock cylinder was smooth
2) the switch has the "steps" for each ignition stage but it never got stuck from 1 -> 0 as I was easily able to turn the switch to the "0" position.

Given the comments above in guessing it's some intermittent switch failure or an intermittent failure/short on the cable that goes to the shifter to make sure it's in park.

I could just order a new switch but that seems wasteful. Is there a way to visually inspect the switch to see signs of failure OR a simple way to make it think it's always in park?

[VStar650CL]

On a 300K ride, I'm betting the interlock cable or the mechanism on the shifter is shot.

[wwwrpm]

On a 300K ride, I'm betting the interlock cable or the mechanism on the shifter is shot.

i just tested it again. i put it in reverse and turned it off and could still get the key all the way out without a problem.

i'm looking in the service manual but EL is 800+ pages and hard to search for "ignition switch" as its everywhere. What component would I need to replace for the interlock/shifter mechanism?

[VStar650CL]

The cable is a separate part and it's mechanical, so you won't find it in EL. It's on AT-271 for models with VIN 550001 up, which I assume yours is. Either the cable or a worn shifter mechanism could cause your issue.

[wwwrpm]

The cable is a separate part and it's mechanical, so you won't find it in EL. It's on AT-271 for models with VIN 550001 up, which I assume yours is. Either the cable or a worn shifter mechanism could cause your issue.

HUGE THANKS thanks for the tip here. the diagrams in AT helped a bunch.

I tested it and every once in a while the shifter would be in Park but when you release the button , the interlock lever is still stuck down. Here is a picture of it stuck up:

it looked like someone installed the collar crooked or it got knocked out of it's seat, likely causing this intermittent stickiness:

After re-seating it, the grey clip easily moves up and down, pulling the cable in our out:

as anything goes though, this might not have been the only culprit, so I'll put it all backtogether and see if it still happens.

[VStar650CL]

I think you found your gremlin, bet it works fine with the collar properly seated. Good work!