spongy brakes HELP

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
SeveLampley
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Car: 2007 Infiniti M35-k23 silver, 5 stage paint correction, 2 ceramic coats, full bolt on, uprev tuned, d&s rotors, hawks hs1 pads, dot 5.1 steel lines

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Couple days ago i put new brake lines on and while I was beeding it,i think i let the resouvioir run dry. now I think the master cylinder has air in it. so my question is, does it just need bench-bled or does it need rebuit/ replaced


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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Masters will generally bleed out okay by cracking the fittings at the master, but since the system will now have air from the top down, it would be a good idea to crack the intermediate fittings at the ABS as well, then bleed the wheels again. In case you don't know, never push the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding -- there's often a circle of crud that builds up inside the master at the spots where the seals normally stop moving, and it can cause a ring of corrosion and pitting in the bore. If you push the pedal past it while bleeding, the pits can tear the seals and ruin the master. Generally you want to stroke the pedal about 1/2~5/8 of the way to the floor and don't push past that.

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Ilya
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VStar650CL wrote:
Wed Dec 30, 2020 5:54 pm
Masters will generally bleed out okay by cracking the fittings at the master, but since the system will now have air from the top down, it would be a good idea to crack the intermediate fittings at the ABS as well, then bleed the wheels again. In case you don't know, never push the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding -- there's often a circle of crud that builds up inside the master at the spots where the seals normally stop moving, and it can cause a ring of corrosion and pitting in the bore. If you push the pedal past it while bleeding, the pits can tear the seals and ruin the master. Generally you want to stroke the pedal about 1/2~5/8 of the way to the floor and don't push past that.
Didn't know that about the pedal. My dad and me bleed my brakes together across like 6 cars and never in 20 years had an issue. But, what you're saying makes sense. Very interesting.

SeveLampley
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2020 8:04 am
Car: 2007 Infiniti M35-k23 silver, 5 stage paint correction, 2 ceramic coats, full bolt on, uprev tuned, d&s rotors, hawks hs1 pads, dot 5.1 steel lines

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VStar650CL wrote:
Wed Dec 30, 2020 5:54 pm
Masters will generally bleed out okay by cracking the fittings at the master, but since the system will now have air from the top down, it would be a good idea to crack the intermediate fittings at the ABS as well, then bleed the wheels again. In case you don't know, never push the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding -- there's often a circle of crud that builds up inside the master at the spots where the seals normally stop moving, and it can cause a ring of corrosion and pitting in the bore. If you push the pedal past it while bleeding, the pits can tear the seals and ruin the master. Generally you want to stroke the pedal about 1/2~5/8 of the way to the floor and don't push past that.
Where are the abs fittings and how would I bleed those?

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VStar650CL
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You should have 4 individual lines running from the ABS to the wheels, crack them at the ABS end. Once all the air is out topside, then re-bleed the wheels.

SeveLampley
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2020 8:04 am
Car: 2007 Infiniti M35-k23 silver, 5 stage paint correction, 2 ceramic coats, full bolt on, uprev tuned, d&s rotors, hawks hs1 pads, dot 5.1 steel lines

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VStar650CL wrote:
Thu Dec 31, 2020 5:07 am
You should have 4 individual lines running from the ABS to the wheels, crack them at the ABS end. Once all the air is out topside, then re-bleed the wheels.
so do i bleed the abs before i bleed the wheels or vice-versa?

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VStar650CL
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The air from the reservoir entered top-down, so the system needs to be bled the same way. Master first, ABS second, wheels last.

SeveLampley
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2020 8:04 am
Car: 2007 Infiniti M35-k23 silver, 5 stage paint correction, 2 ceramic coats, full bolt on, uprev tuned, d&s rotors, hawks hs1 pads, dot 5.1 steel lines

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VStar650CL wrote:
Thu Dec 31, 2020 11:43 am
The air from the reservoir entered top-down, so the system needs to be bled the same way. Master first, ABS second, wheels last.
Can’t find anything in the exact procedure. Do I just crack each line open individual and have someone hit the brakes?

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VStar650CL
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Just like bleeding the wheels, one at a time with an assistant.


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