SPL Tension Rod Install

[Ceptos]

I have a set of tension rods from SPL, id like to install them along with my coilovers to save money. i figured it was straight forward like the coilovers, but i ive been looking at them and have a few questions.

how do you make sure both ends are lined up correctly? the half that attaches to the LCA is threaded, and the other end has a bearing that allows for twist. so when you are installing them, with the car off the ground, do you just attach both ends to the car then tighten the lock nuts? what about making sure the bearing is not already twisted before locking the other end?

i plan on getting an alignment right after this of course, thanks for any help

[Dori Dori]

I'm not sure what you mean by both ends being lined up correctly or a 'twisting bearing' (think you're talking about the heim joint, but I don't know what your concern is)...I just set them to the same length as the existing rods, locked them so there is no 'adjustments' while installing, and adjusted them after the install. You want to set it up so that you can add caster later (so you want to be able to pull the control arm foward).

[Ceptos]

the stock tension rods are solid. with the spl tension rods it is possible to lock the tension rod in a position that will not bolt down to the LCA, obviously i wouldnt have it this far off, but i have no idea how i would go about making sure it is correct. if i bolted it to the lca and secured it while the spherical bearing was twisted all the way to an extreme, then wouldnt this have an effect on the bearings play?

[Dori Dori]

Like I said, adjust the rod so that it's the exact same length as the existing (stock) tension rods and install them that way. IIRC, the threads should be on the front (closer to the subframe), could be wrong though...either way, you want the rod to be able to 'shorten' when you adjust it, thus giving you more caster. Don't worry about the heim joint, it's designed to do that...that's its function. The reason why urethane bushings break the LCA is because they can't swivel like that...that's probably also the reason why Nissan chose those giant squishy bushings for the stock car.

[Dori Dori]

This should help:

[Ceptos]

ok, i think i get it now, im probably just overthinking it.

for the end that attaches to the sub frame, i guess you want that screwed down into the arm as far as possible and locked? and then do the adjusting with the other end.

thanks for the help

[Nismo_Freak]

- Remove old rods- Install heim joint side first- Twist rod until you can install it into lower control arm- Bolt rod into the lower control arm - Tighten all nuts to proper torque- Tighten adjustment lock nuts

Done, go get an alignment immediately as your caster will be off.

[Ceptos]

thanks a lot, thats how i was imagining it, but wanted to make sure

[180crafter]

This should help:

**cough**cough***Shameless Self plug***hacking cough***me extremely jealous**cough**:D

[barrigas14]

that is sick...i want i want.

[Exar-Kun]

Dori, is that the underside of your car? HOw much did you pay for these ikea formula LCA peices?-chet

[Dori Dori]

Hell no. I wish. That's SCC's project 'Z'. Those are the SPL lca's...according to their web, the s13 versions (which are not tubular and don't look as nice) are $594. Here's the link:http://www.splparts.com/Parts/...k.asp

They also have a rear LCA...for the small sum of $775.

[Nismo_Freak]

Dori, is that the underside of your car? HOw much did you pay for these ikea formula LCA peices?-chet

Chet, we sponsored that car.

[Exar-Kun]

thats a nice setup -chet

[Projex240]

I talked to spl a while back and whoever I spoke to , I asked about the lca for the rear---what is the benefit of having those tubular or no tubalr lca on the car--do they have the benefit of keeping the front end more stable it full lock, etc--I am just now learning about drift and grip suspension. I have mostly been into drag and road course til now, but I have now the need to get the suspension tuned properly.ANy help is appreciated.

-Thanks,

Josh

[chmercer]

woah, back from the dead.

aside from being stronger / not bending as much / etc. they allow you to change the roll center.

[SPL Parts]

I talked to spl a while back and whoever I spoke to , I asked about the lca for the rear---what is the benefit of having those tubular or no tubalr lca on the car--do they have the benefit of keeping the front end more stable it full lock, etc--I am just now learning about drift and grip suspension. I have mostly been into drag and road course til now, but I have now the need to get the suspension tuned properly.ANy help is appreciated.

Honestly as far as adjustability of the suspension goes there isn't anything that you specifically need for drift or grip racing. They all are equally effective at improving suspension geometry which is equally important in any form of automotive racing.

The front lower control arm allows you to adjust the roll center (read: roll couple) of the car. This has a similar effect to raising spring rates and sway bars, however it does not impead the amount of compression (aka suspension travel) of the dampener and spring. It also replaces the factory rubber bushing with a heim joint to reduce compliance. Overall they are an effective upgrade and a must for someone looking to get 100% out of their suspension setup.